Need a capper that works

Filthy Lucre · May 10, 2009, 08:52:06 AM

I've just bought a pair of 1860 Armies. Went to the range yeasterday to play. Ended up putting caps on with my fingers as the Ted Cash and the snail capper didn't work.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
FL-D

Freedom · May 10, 2009, 10:10:11 AM

I am surprised that the snail didn't work...was it platic or brass? I have a brass one that will cap about anything.

Also you may try one of the round leather disc style cappers. They are not too hard to make with some leather and a hole punch, there flexabitlity somtimes makes them work where the brass and plastic ones won't fit.

Fingers McGee · May 10, 2009, 01:57:03 PM

I don't understand either. The Ted Cash snail capper works on all my Colt style C&Bs to include the pocket pistols.

FM

Pettifogger · May 10, 2009, 02:14:49 PM

+3. I've got a bunch of the snail cappers and they all work. Filthy, can you describe what isn't "working?" Maybe a photo or two would also help. Colt's have HUGE cap windows. The only people that have trouble with cappers are usually Remington shooters.

Flint · May 10, 2009, 02:26:04 PM

I have 2 Ted Cash snail cappers, one worked, the other didn't. I found it was a problem with the position and angle of the brass at the front corner, and the spring tension affected by that. The two cappers were different in the shape of the capping nose and space for the cap to seat in the spring. After some work with needle nose pliers to get the one that didn't work to look like the one that does work, I corrected the problem. Seems the workers making the capper need more care or instruction in shaping the nose of the capper.

The only revolver the snail capper won't work on is the Remington. The only cure is to open up the notches on the Remington cylinder to let the Ted Cash capper in. A milling machine with an index head works very well,. Without an index head you need to reclamp the cylinder and realign it for each of the 6 notches. People have done it with a Dremel tool as well, but that would require some extreme care..

Freedom · May 10, 2009, 03:39:59 PM

I usemy brass one on my Rem...I just have to cap it under the hammer and not at the side.

Pettifogger · May 10, 2009, 09:49:23 PM

Quote from: Freedom on May 10, 2009, 03:39:59 PM
I usemy brass one on my Rem...I just have to cap it under the hammer and not at the side.

I would like to see a picture of this as it makes absolutely no sense. There is not enough room on a Remington to put a cap on the nipple that is under the hammer.

James Hunt · May 10, 2009, 10:36:05 PM

Your frustration may reflect the reason that there is an absolute paucity of primary source material regarding the common use of cappers on revolvers during the period. For sure they were there, but there is no indication that they were in any serious use by the rank and file shooter. (Seat with your fingers and then push on with a small piece of dowel for safety.)

Jamie · May 11, 2009, 07:20:22 AM

I've always capped with an old straight-line capper, distributed I believe by Dixie when I bought it. Nowhere near as beautious as the brass snail type from Cash, but effective on 3 different Colt style - a Walker, an 1860, and an 1862 Pocket Police. In addition it works fine on my brass framed ASM 1858 Remington. It was what I had for my T/C Hawken, and so I just used it.
Jamie

Noz · May 11, 2009, 02:11:30 PM

Quote from: Flint on May 10, 2009, 02:26:04 PM
The only cure is to open up the notches on the Remington cylinder to let the Ted Cash capper in. People have done it with a Dremel tool as well, but that would require some extreme care..

Of all the gunsmithing jobs I have attempted this (Dremel tool fix) is the easiest and quickest fix of a vexing problem. Takes less than 5 minutes per cylinder and is virtually idiot proof.

Cactus Cris · May 11, 2009, 09:19:50 PM

I have been shooting C&B for 15 yrs. in CAS & never could get a snail capper to work consistantly. I have 30+- straight line TC cappers now. I never have to fill one up during a match. I use one per stage (10 shots) and get another for the next stage. One thing that I found is that the little "nubs" on the end where the caps sit are just a tad too long & the flat part that keeps the cap in the capper is just a tad too long too ( Spring steel end). I ground the "nubs down a little and filed the flat back a little. They work in all my toys now, inc. the ROA's, Colt types, Rem's & LaMatts.
Yer milage may differ.

Freedom · May 12, 2009, 08:46:32 AM

Quote from: Pettifogger on May 10, 2009, 09:49:23 PM
I would like to see a picture of this as it makes absolutely no sense. There is not enough room on a Remington to put a cap on the nipple that is under the hammer.

What you meen you can't fit a capper through that little slot??.....

;DYeah I see that I this does make no sense

...sorry about that I was thinking of my 36cal 1860. I have to cap it under the hammer cause the capper won't fit on the side but it fits nicely under the hammer...with it back of coarse

Flint · May 12, 2009, 12:25:31 PM

Back, hopefully, to half cock, not full cock.

Paladin UK · May 12, 2009, 01:56:35 PM

Freedom says........

QuoteI have to cap it under the hammer cause the capper won't fit on the side but it fits nicely under the hammer...with it back of coarse

Rather you than me pard!!

Paladin (Whut likes his fingers `n` such jest where they are!!

) UK

Noz · May 12, 2009, 03:01:41 PM

Cap under the hammer? I can't see that either?

44caliberkid · May 13, 2009, 11:34:05 AM

I too, would be curious as to "doesn't work" means. I have two Ted Cash snail cappers (brass) and both work great. I had to tweak the spring once on one of them to get it to hold the cap tighter, other than that they are flawless.

Leo Tanner · May 13, 2009, 02:59:11 PM

Quote from: James Hunt on May 10, 2009, 10:36:05 PM
Your frustration may reflect the reason that there is an absolute paucity of primary source material regarding the common use of cappers on revolvers during the period. For sure they were there, but there is no indication that they were in any serious use by the rank and file shooter. (Seat with your fingers and then push on with a small piece of dowel for safety.)

S'way I do it. Works fine.

Montana Slim · May 14, 2009, 10:05:36 PM

I have two straight-line cappers, brass. One orients the caps longitudinally, push them straight-on....works well with Remingtons or Colts. I've "adjusted" it to hold CCI #11s.....#10s will nearly fall out, so I only use with pistols requiring #11s. The other capper orients the cap to one side of the capper. I use this on my Colts requiring #10 caps. Works well on all, but is preferred to cap on my 'lil-1849. This particular gun doesn't have much clearance on the side of the frame, ala 1860 model, so I find it easier to cap at the hammer position. Obviously, the gun must be at half-cock.

Regards,
Slim

Fiddler Green · May 22, 2009, 11:28:10 AM

I'm with you: I've never found a capper that works worth a damb. I use the correct caps (Remington #10's) and my fingers.

Bruce

River City John · May 22, 2009, 05:06:39 PM

Quote from: 44caliberkid on May 13, 2009, 11:34:05 AM
I too, would be curious as to "doesn't work" means. I have two Ted Cash snail cappers (brass) and both work great. I had to tweak the spring once on one of them to get it to hold the cap tighter, other than that they are flawless.

44CaliberKid,
my capper of choice is a Ted Cash inline that comes to a rounded point at the tip, with two opposing spring steel clips that let each cap advance. I filed the shape to a bit more rounded point profile, including the bent back ends of the two springs that capture the cap, plus soldered a slender triangle of brass on the underside of the flat that supports the bottom of the cap as it is pushed down onto the nipple. I found that this brace helps keep the supporting brass lip from gradually bending back with the pressure caused by seating the caps. It has worked well with all types of openings, Colt- and Remington-type. (Although I did use a Dremel cutter wheel to open up the nipple well openings on my Remington.)

RCJ