hand stitching tips tricks?

[Big Bear Johnson]

does anyone have any tips or tricks to make hand stitching less of a pain?

I get the leather moderately wet so it's easier to get the needles through. Too wet and the leather gets weak and can pull through if you over tighten the thread so watch out.

I use the S shaped needles because they have a bit of a cutting edge on them and if you rotate them in the hole once, it makes it easier to get the other needle through.

Use a stitching pony when I can but be careful of wet leather in one, you can over tighten and mark up your piece.

I use one of those Tandy stitching tools on certain project because it's easy. It's type of stitch is less than prime though.

the Tandy stitcher makes a better awl than most awls I've tried.



my problems I could use tips on:
1. my fingers get real beat up doing the stitching. I need to find a good glove to help. One that isn't too thick so you can feel what you're doing but will prevent the wear and tear when shoving the needles through thick leather.
2. I misalign my hands when stitching while watching an old Gunsmoke, Rifleman, or Audie Murphy movie and literally do some 'hand stitching'. I figure all the kids are getting piercings these days. I am starting a fad by piercing my fingers.

[ChuckBurrows]

A slight variation on the traditional method.........
http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html
I also HIGHLY recommed Al Stohlman's "The Art of Handstitching Leather" - just a bunch of info and even after 48+ years I still refer to it from time to time......

IMO
1) Get rid of the S eedles and get some good harness needles in the correct sizeto match the thread (single O for 5 cord linen works good)
2) DON'T wet the leather - wet leather marks too easily
3) Keep a small "tub" of beeswax handy and wax your needles every few stitches - I melt my wax into a heavy shallow shaving mug - that way it stays put - others make a hole in their stitch pony for the wax
4) I use a quilter's thimble on my middle fingers to push with and those rubber fingertips (get them at most office supplies) on my index fingers to grasp with - they have made a HUGE difference in how much easier it is to pull the needles through the leather - using pliers is virtually a thing of the past.......
5) I make my own awl blades since I'm also a knifemaker, but you can improve on the Osborne ones by re-shaping and polishing smooth to a mirror polish - or buy an awl from Bob Douglas, Peter Main, Jeremiah Watt, to name just three - they are not cheap,but they do make a world of difference so in the long run are worth it........

[cazio]

I was thinking of using a golf glove when I stitch to see if I get a better grip, who knows  I could be on to something.

[Dalton Masterson]

Everything Chuck said or says is gold.

The only thing I do different than Chuck, is I use a piece of old firehose to pull my needles through instead of the rubber fingertips. The firehose has a rubber lining inside, and I can carefully push a needle with the canvas side if needed, and pull it on through with the rubber inside. The loop of firehose is only a 2" or 3" section and the loop it makes fits around my thread spool so I can keep everything together. (needles on thread, ends, awl, etc, all fit within my spool/hose).

On occasion, I will lay my piece flat on my rubber mat on the bench, and use my awl to poke holes, but usually I poke a hole stitch a hole, without using  a horse.

DM

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I use a small pair of smooth-jawed pliers to grip my pliers. I haven't tried a quilter's thimble anf rubber finger covers but that sounds like a good idea (thanks, Chuck). I wear fingerless gloves like the motorcycle gloves that end at the first knuckle so cinching is easy on the fingers.

[cowboywc]

Howdy
When my needle is half way through I rotate it in a big oval, it opens the leather up and the needle will pull through with no problem. The hole closes up behind it.
WC

[TN Mongo]

A fellow hand stitcher!!!  I've been hand stitching everything for the past four years.  Chuck is dead on about the needles and wax (although Tandy does now sell a decent pre-waxed hand stitching thread).  I don't have that Stohlman hand stitching book, but he also describes the process in his holster making book. 

1. Instead of a glove, I wrapped the first joint down from the finger tip of my index   
    fingers and little fingers with athletic tape.  I also use two different methods to push the
    needle most of the way through the leather.  Tandy sells a palm pad device designed
    for this task that works OK.  Many times I just use a small scrap of hardwood flooring
    board.  Once the needle is almost all the way through, I use a small pliers (like Marshal
    Will) to pull it through the rest of the way.

2. I always pre-punch all my holes before I start stitching, except heavy holster welts,
    and this makes hand stitching much easier (I assume you are using a stitching wheel to
    mark your stitch spacing).  I feel like I'm cheating now because I'm using a Tippman
    Boss sewing machine to punch my holes (I can't get it to function properly as a
    sewing machine without skipping stitches, but it's a great hole punch).  Before I used
    the Tippman, I used a mallet and an awl to punch each hole.  I had better results using
    a small diameter regular round point awl than with the diamond shape point awl.  On
    thick holster welts (3/4 inch or more), I use to use a drill press with a small bit. 

3. Another reason I pre-punch most of my holes is that it gives the work a
    "professional look" because the stitching is so precise.  I still use a stitching wheel
    even though I'm using the Tippman  machine as a hole punch because the stitch length   
    is more consistent than using the machine alone.  People think I'm lying when I tell
    them my work is hand stitched.   

I don't know if it's same for you guys, but the most challenging thing I dealt with in hand stitching is mastering holster toe plugs.
   

[Big Bear Johnson]

I like the S shaped needles. I don't need to use pliers to pull them through because you can grab them much easier. It took about 15 minutes of using them to get used to them but I'm finding that they work really well.

[Trailrider]

Howdy, Pards,
If you don't have a leather-sewing machine, pre-drill the holes with a #56 drill bit.  Makes life A LOT easier!

[santee]

Don't forget the bourbon.

[Big Bear Johnson]

Don't forget the bourbon.

I'd question the quality of stitching one could do after a few shots of 'Rebel Yell'.

[Pokey Packrat]

Howdy Pards, lots of good ideas again on stiching as always, this forum is the place to get it! Well I just finished some stiching on a

belt and I used a stiching pony, waxed needles, awl and I tried rubber fingers and a piece of firehose, for me I like a piece of

bicycle inner tube about 2" square, works great on smooth needles and it leaves my fingers free to feel and manipulate the thread

easier, your milage may vary,                                                                                                   Pokey

[HorsePen Henry]

I'd question the quality of stitching one could do after a few shots of 'Rebel Yell'.

Yessir, but....pass it around and who would care?

Horse Pen

[craftsman]

I should read all the replies first, before I post my sugestion. Just too lazy.
I use 2oz. leather finger sleaves. I make them out of scrap leather, they cover my pinkeies
while I'm hand stitching, realy helps. Don't make them too thick, or you won't be able to bend your fingers.

[Springfield Slim]

The only thing special I do is to take a small file and stone and re=do all my awl tips. They just don't work right out of the box. I have only used Tandy and Osborne awls, though. May have to try some higher end awls. But sharpening and polishing makes a world of difference. Waxing them helps with push through also, especially on welts and thicker items like that.