Dying Leather Need Help!!

Woodrow Spearman · April 14, 2009, 10:43:21 AM

I am trying to make my first cowboy holster. When I apply the dye with a dauber or sponge, it streaks, and looks like the leather is absobing the dye differently in different places. I choose a Tan color Fiebing's dye, but after about 4 coats it turned out a dark brown. Should I have diluted the dye from the bottle with something? Should I immerse the leather in a tub of dye? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Woodrow

Trailrider · April 14, 2009, 11:12:07 AM

Howdy, Pard,
Check my reply on "The Other Bulletin Board".

Skeeter Lewis · April 14, 2009, 12:18:59 PM

Hi Woodrow

It helps to wet the leather beforehand to get an even uptake of dye.

Fiebing's dye is real strong. You can dilute it way down with isopropyl alcohol. You can dye the leather either before or after you sew up the holster. Personally, I dip-dye afterwards in a plastic bowl and use a sponge to get the dye even. Those little daubers are fine for small projects but useless for holsters and belts.

I haven't read Trailrider's link but his advice is always good. I'm sure other pards will chip in. We all have our own way of going about it.

Dyeing, in my view, is one of the toughest things to get right. Experiment on small offcuts before you commit yourself to dyeing your project. I ruined a holster or two at first.

Marshal Will Wingam · April 14, 2009, 01:56:45 PM

Welcome to the forum, Woodrow. This is a good bunch with lots of information. Looking forward to more of your posts. Photos are good if you have any, we're always excited to see pics.

I like to submerge mine to get an even coat. For a lighter color, I dilute the dye with alcohol first. I usually keep a couple quart bottles of my diluted dye around for times when I want lighter shades. I picked up a synthetic chamois material at a gunshow one time and use a 2" square of that to put dye on with better results than cotton or sheepskin. There are times when I want an uneven coat and I just keep dabbing dye on until I get the coverage I want.

Here's a pic of an uneven dying job in case you want to go that route.

knucklehead · April 14, 2009, 07:16:39 PM

i just learned something last month when dying a project. needless to say i screwed up the project during the dye process.
hence the learning something.

i was told to get saddle oil from bee natural leathercare.

with sheepskin patch apply a light coat of saddle oil on the leather after all tooling is done before dying.
let sit for 4 hours or overnight if you can. then just put on the dye after oil had a chance to dry.
was told that you need to put the oil back into the leather after you used the carving solution on the leather.

i did this on my last project and had no problems with the dye streaking.
i just used a patch of sheepskin and rubbed the dye on the leather.
was amazed how easy the leather took the dye with no streaking.

i will from now on use the saddle oil after tooling my leather before dying again.

Ace Lungger · April 14, 2009, 08:07:53 PM

howdy Knucklehead,
I am a tad bit lost at this moment! This is all coming from left field, and i might and more than likely I am wrong!
When use Veg tanned leather for carving and stamping! My understanding of veg or oak tanned leather doesn't have much oil in it, and that is why be put our coating on and in the leather to give it its life back! so I don't understand why you would have to oil before dyeing, because After I dye my leather is when I put my oils back in!
BUT remember I havn't be doing this long, so this brings me to my next question, What is carving solution??? And what does it do! That might be what is taking out what little oil that is still in the leather??

I am purly asking question here!
Allways Willing to Learn
ACE

Woodrow Spearman · April 15, 2009, 01:33:50 PM

I appreciate all the help. How long should I leave the piece submerged in the dye? Or is there a set time. And another question, when you put the welt in place, do you sew through the welt or let the contact cement hold it in place? I had a welt that was about 1/2 inch thick and it was very hard to sew.

Thanks,
Woodrow

cowboywc · April 15, 2009, 01:50:57 PM

Howdy
You need to sew through the welt also. I know it difficult but a good sharp awl will go through. I'll post some pix of thick welts later.
WC

cowboywc · April 15, 2009, 02:48:28 PM

Howdy
Here are a couple of sheaths with thick welts.
WC

Marshal Will Wingam · April 15, 2009, 04:41:51 PM

Great sheaths, WC. Good examples of thick welts on those two. I agree that a good, sharp awl will go through the leather just fine. If I have too many layers, I may drill the holes if there is too much to do. Here's a case I made for my leatherworking knife years ago. I glued it then drilled the holes with a dinky drill in my dremel first. Then I stitched it.

Ace Lungger · April 15, 2009, 04:51:45 PM

WC and MW,
Those are Awesome knife sheaths!
thanks for sharing!
ACE

cowboywc · April 15, 2009, 05:44:38 PM

Howdy MW
A drill will do the job. I'm just not a fan of round holes, that's why I don't own a machine.
Nice sheath.
WC

Marshal Will Wingam · April 15, 2009, 08:49:47 PM

Thanks, pards.

Quote from: cowboywc on April 15, 2009, 05:44:38 PMI'm just not a fan of round holes, that's why I don't own a machine.

i do have to agree with that but sometimes, it's not worth running an awl through all those holes.

knucklehead · April 15, 2009, 09:19:48 PM

Quote from: Ace Lungger on April 14, 2009, 08:07:53 PM
howdy Knucklehead,
I am a tad bit lost at this moment! This is all coming from left field, and i might and more than likely I am wrong!
When use Veg tanned leather for carving and stamping! My understanding of veg or oak tanned leather doesn't have much oil in it, and that is why be put our coating on and in the leather to give it its life back! so I don't understand why you would have to oil before dyeing, because After I dye my leather is when I put my oils back in!
BUT remember I havn't be doing this long, so this brings me to my next question, What is carving solution??? And what does it do! That might be what is taking out what little oil that is still in the leather??

I am purly asking question here!
Allways Willing to Learn
ACE

Ace,

the solution i use is pro carve. it allows the leather to be cased faster. you can start carving in 3 to 5 mins after wetting the leather with the solution. and also helps the knife have less drag while carving.
check out the following link
http://www.bee-natural.com/index.html

read the page and when you see the video word underlined right click on it to download the video. chan geer explains the process on what he uses from bee natural leather care. he uses pro carve, saddle oil, rtc to do his leathercraft.

RollingThunder · April 15, 2009, 09:20:53 PM

Well, Ace, this will really confuse you then. I oil my stuff lightly before and after dying. I do it before because it permeates the leather and allows for a carrier to bring the pigment into the pores more quickly allowing for a more even coat. Afterwards, it's for the surface area. I give it a good rubbing after all that with a dry piece of sheepskin to rub the dye in and the oil as well. Helps smooth it out a bit.

Quote from: Ace Lungger on April 14, 2009, 08:07:53 PM
howdy Knucklehead,
I am a tad bit lost at this moment! This is all coming from left field, and i might and more than likely I am wrong!
When use Veg tanned leather for carving and stamping! My understanding of veg or oak tanned leather doesn't have much oil in it, and that is why be put our coating on and in the leather to give it its life back! so I don't understand why you would have to oil before dyeing, because After I dye my leather is when I put my oils back in!
ACE

Skeeter Lewis · April 16, 2009, 04:09:53 AM

Woodrow - when you're dyeing with Fiebing's dye, you don't need to let the leather sit in the dye. Just long enough to get the color on is fine.

Ace Lungger · April 16, 2009, 09:21:04 AM

Howdy Knucklehead,
Thanks for the link, that was very interesting!! Is the Dye that you are using a oil base? I havn't ever bought any dye, all I ever use is the natural dye's that are a water base! my thoiughts

Was oil and water don't mix well! but I can see if you are useing a oil base dye it wouldn't be a problem pre oiling before dyeing! And I in no way was saying anything bad about your methods, I was just wondering why!

Knucklehead & RM, I am a newbie and ask these questions so you guys will explain, and you do, And I am great full! I most likely will never buy any dye or finish's because it is just a hobby for me! It is costly enough to buy leather! But as I stated I am great full for the explaining and showing me!! you guys do awesome work, and maybe sometime down the line if I ever improve 100% then I might have to do things differently?? I am sure there are several different ways to do things, and if you don't ask, you don't know!

I do thank both of you guys for showing me and telling how you do your leather!
Later
ACE