What am I doing wrong??

Ace Lungger · April 10, 2009, 05:47:56 PM

Howdy Pards,
One the last three 6 shooters that I have build out of parts, I have had the same thing happening, so it has to be the same thing, so I was hopeing that one of you pards that can build one of these in your sleep could tell me the problem!
They all do this, if you cock them in a normal manner, like you would if you was at the store, the timing is perfect, lock up is good!
But if you pull them back like you were thumb busting, they will go 1/2 more of a turn out of battery??
there has to be something that I am doing that is wrong on everyone?
I would be very great full, if some one out there could tell me what they think I am setting up wrong? I know it is hard to fixed a problem when someone says it makes this sound!! But since all three do the same thing, there has to be something not set right!

Thanks in advance
ACE

Pettifogger · April 10, 2009, 06:32:44 PM

First, what kind of guns are you talking about? All three the same brand? Cap and ball, cartridge? When a revolver over rotates it can be caused by a variety of problems. Poorly fitted bolt (bolt head not fitted properly, bolt leg that goes over the hammer cam not fitted correctly, etc.), weak or damaged hand spring, weak or damaged bolt/trigger spring.

Major 2 · April 10, 2009, 06:34:47 PM

SAA ? Right $:-\$
My guess is the bolt
one of three things... spring is weak ... Bolt is shaped Parallel to it's sides ( should have a slight angle )...
or the bolt is a tad to wide for the Cyl. stop.

anyway that's my take .... experts could surely educate us both

Para phrasing ODDBALL (in Kelly's Hero's )

"MAN ! I just ~~drive~~ shoot them, I don't know what make's em go"

Major 2 · April 10, 2009, 06:36:55 PM

See... Pettifogger answered while I was typing

Ace Lungger · April 10, 2009, 07:48:12 PM

2 of the guns are 1873 clones, the last is a C&B . The bolt lug fits perfect in every cylinder notch, that is the first thing I check when i putting a gun toghter. I changed the bolt, I had a new one, when I intalled it, it wouldn't let you pull the hammer back, so that tell me, the hand is engaging the cylinder before the bolt is releasing the cylinder. The cylinder is brand new! I would hate to shorten the hand?
It has to be something simple i am doing!
I am still open for any and help!
Thanks ACE

RRio · April 11, 2009, 12:51:37 PM

Quote from: Ace Lungger on April 10, 2009, 05:47:56 PM

They all do this, if you cock them in a normal manner, like you would if you was at the store, the timing is perfect, lock up is good!
But if you pull them back like you were thumb busting, they will go 1/2 more of a turn out of battery??
there has to be something that I am doing that is wrong on everyone?
I would be very great full, if some one out there could tell me what they think I am setting up wrong? I know it is hard to fixed a problem when someone says it makes this sound!! But since all three do the same thing, there has to be something not set right!

Thanks in advance
ACE

You do not have timing of the bolt just exactly right, you have a late bolt drop which means you need to adjust the length of the arm that slips back over the hammer cam to engage the notch.

If you enjoy working on these, I would suggest getting the book "The Colt Single Action, A Shop Manual Vols-I & II" by Jerry Kuhnhausen. He has an excellent trouble-shooting guide in it.

Quote from: Ace Lungger on April 10, 2009, 07:48:12 PM
2 of the guns are 1873 clones, the last is a C&B . The bolt lug fits perfect in every cylinder notch, that is the first thing I check when i putting a gun toghter. I changed the bolt, I had a new one, when I intalled it, it wouldn't let you pull the hammer back, so that tell me, the hand is engaging the cylinder before the bolt is releasing the cylinder. The cylinder is brand new! I would hate to shorten the hand?
It has to be something simple i am doing!
I am still open for any and help!
Thanks ACE

The cam on the hammer should engage the bolt before the hand engages the crown on the cylinder. Being a new cylinder, you may have to adjust the hand. Also check to make sure the hand spring is okay. Hand springs can cause some funky stuff.

Ace Lungger · April 11, 2009, 05:02:58 PM

RR,
So I need to make the u shape in the bolt a little deeper, that would let the the bolt drop faster? Or am I thinking wrong?
Thanks for the advice!
Ace

RRio · April 11, 2009, 11:06:37 PM

Quote from: Ace Lungger on April 11, 2009, 05:02:58 PM
RR,
So I need to make the u shape in the bolt a little deeper, that would let the the bolt drop faster?
Ace

No.

It's hard to tell without the gun in front of me, but my guess would be that with the new cylinder, the hand is engaging the crown on the cylinder before the cam is engaging the bolt.
Making the u shape in the bolt deeper will not make the hammer cam engage the bolt any faster. Take the hand completely out to see if the hammer cam does engage the bolt. If it does, then you need to adjust the top part of the hand. If the hammer cam does not engage the bolt, then you have something else going on.

You in touchy territory right now, so be very careful.

Ace Lungger · April 12, 2009, 10:49:29 AM

RR,
Thank you for the advice. I found out when I put those 2 1873 toghter, how carefull you have to be, when working on the bolt!
I am just a person that tinkers, and I how that the hammer cam and the boltare just resting on each other when the hammer is down, then when starting to cock it has to raise the bolt to let the bolt turn, and then it slides of the cam so that the bolt can ride on the cylinder and slide in the groove and then into the cylinder notch, I have checked and checked, and i have to think that the bolt/trigger spring is a little weak, or the locking lug on the hand is to long and isn't falling into the grove on the cylinder, which in turn doesn't give bolt lug enough time to lock?
Thanks Again
ACE
after I wrote this, i went and checked the wear ring on the cylinder, and it isn't riding at the right spot on the cylinder, but I 5think I cann fix it know.