"Left Windage" Problem on Uberti Schofield

[Old No7]

Well gang, I figured out why my new Uberti Schofield (.38 Spcl) shoots 2" left at 7 yards (on our personal defense range) and >5" left at 50 feet (on the indoor range).

See the pix below which clearly shows the notch in the latch/rear sight does not line up with the groove in the barrel.  And wouldn't you know it, the front sight is smack dab in the middle of that groove!



At first I figured that I would just buy another latch from VTI and if it was no better, then at least I'd have an extra to file on.  But for $65.00 plus shipping -- yikes! 

Maybe I will have to contact Uberti to see what they say about this...

* Anyone else seen this on their Schofield's?

* Other ideas to correct for windage when the barrel cannot be turned?

Thanks.

Old No7

[St. George]

We've talked about this one before and if you do some digging into the 'back pages' here, I think you might find several possible solutions.

Most seem to involve filing, though.

During the heyday of the big Webley revolvers - they made a series of off-set- front sight blades to counteract this problem for individual shooters - though I think that this was a 'commercial' product of the era.

That said - you 'could try applying a thin shim or two side of your front sight blade and then see about a replacement front sight that you could have the appropriate thickness silver-soldered to.

You could try a somewhat thicker coin, as well - and carefully file and fit to suit.

Either has got to be a less-expensive fix than a new latch...

The Schofield and the Colt Single Action Army were never designed as 'target' weapons.

They were designed as fighting weapons designed to be shot instinctively from the back of a Cavalry mount in combat.

As such - 'acceptable accuracy' was the hitting of a man-sized target instinctively, and at a relatively short range.

'Accuracy' was developed individually - with practice and ammunition expenditure - learning the individual weapon's quirks and applying time-honored 'Kentucky Windage' where needed.

Good Luck!

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[litl rooster]

The Schofield and the Colt Single Action Army were never designed as 'target' weapons.

They were designed as fighting weapons designed to be shot instinctively from the back of a Cavalry mount in combat.

As such - 'acceptable accuracy' was the hitting of a man-sized target instinctively, and at a relatively short range.

'Accuracy' was developed individually - with practice and ammunition expenditure - learning the individual weapon's quirks and applying time-honored 'Kentucky Windage' where needed.

Good Luck!

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

so well put..   We all get tyed up in this CAS race of winning and forget what these old and clone guns were about....cover fire till you get to your horse for your rifle.

  However at the price of them new clones You'd think QC would catch that mistake.   Good luck to #7, I think if you contact the maker they will take care of you.

[Flint]

Adding insult to injury, the sight groove looks as if it's off a bit to the right.  I had a Schofield that had the groove (and front sight) off center, and it shot left.  That's easiest to see at the narrow part of the rib.

[Old No7]

BTT...

FYI, I had posted this question in the active "...Slicking Up a Uberti..." thread, but it may get more attention back over on this post where it really belongs.

I tried to punch out the blued pin holding the front sight (Uberti 7" Schofield in .38 Spcl) and all I succeeded in doing was leaving a slight mark where the steel punch was seated -- the pin didn't budge at all...

Does it need to be drilled out, or drill the end on one side first???

Any tips or ideas from others???

I bought some German Silver ovals from Dixie Gun Works, and I had planned to silver solder at least one of them to the left side of the front blade (to move the bullet's impact right), but I don't dare do the soldering with the blade still on the barrel.  And I've considered the silver coin idea too.

Thanks gang!

Old No7

[Fox Creek Kid]

Just file the groove open to one side at the distance you want to regulate for with your sweetheart load. Slap a little cold blue on it afterward. I've done it on several guns and many originals have the same ``regulation``.

[Pettifogger]

That little V groove is hard to see for old eyes.  If it was me I'd just run an 1/8th inch end mill through the thing (favoring the side that needs to move to correct the windage), cold blue and be ready to rock. 

On that pin.  I had the same problem on a Uberti Lightning I just rebuilt.  The barrel band pin was the most difficult pin I have ever had to remove.  It was HARD steel and every time I hit the punch sparks flew.  Took chips out of the punch tip.  Even tried heating it in case it was locktited.   It was just a super tight fit.  It eventually came out, but it took a little cosmetic work to get everything to look nice once it was put back together.  To hard to drill.  You would probably do more damage with drill drift than punching it out.