spot setting

[JD Alan]

That sounds like a whole bunch of spot setting there Trailrider. I hope I can ask a curoius question here: How to you determine how much to charge when doing that many spots?

General ballpark is fine. I appreciate it, JD

[Dalton Masterson]

I mark the spot location with my wing divider, making the marks just a hair narrower than the prongs on the spot. Then I use Craftool #481 to make the slits for the spots. I poke the spot thru the holes.
I have a piece of leather with a hole punched in it that I set the spot upside down in. This keeps the spot from moving around while I am folding the prongs in.
I use an old seeder that was damaged to push the prongs in, and then seat them down farther with the same seeder.
Has worked great for me, for several projects. It only takes a moment for each one.

I also have the Tandy spot setter, but I find my way much easier, and more accurate to set the spots.

DM

[JD Alan]

Hi Dalton, do you use the wing divider to get the space correct between the spots? Or is it possible you are using the wing divider to mark the 2 hole placements? Craftool 481 appears to be a small flower stamp, and I don't see it listed any more. Is this information correct? 

The Tandy spot prongs seem to be wider than the domes. Do you end up crimping each one? Perhaps you use some other brand of spots.

I've got a request to make a new billet for a buddy who's gun belt "shrunk". It's black, with lots of small spots, which I will have to replicate.

I suggested movning the billet, but then you've got holes in the leather that will be seen

Thanks for any help you can give Dalton, you are the Bomb! JD

[Dalton Masterson]

The tool I use is not a flower, unless someone modified it before I got it. Its plated tho, so I dont think it was probably a modified tool. It is basically a very small chisel, with a sharp little end that is the size of the spot prong.

I have 2 wing dividers. I use one to set my spacing, and the other is set for the prongs.

I use Tandy spots, as well as some I bought off of Ebay in bulk. I make the slits narrower than the prongs either way, so that they stay under the spot when completed, and the hole is under the dome, mostly.

Any way you can use the old spots? I have pulled some off of old harnesses, and bridles to be reused with little problems. Sometimes its destructive to get them off tho, or a prong will break. Then I just flatten the prong out flat again, and reuse. Might take a lot of time with the tiny ones tho.

Good luck to you, JD.

DM

[JD Alan]

Thanks Dalton, two wing dividers makes sense. I have tried all sorts of things to punch holes for the spots. I found the little adjustable tool Chuck uses in his DVD. Tandy doesn't carry it, but Oregon Leather did. It only comes with one set of prongs, and they are too thick for the small spots. I'd like to be able to buy extra prongs for this tool, but I can't find them anywhere.

Any chance you could post a picture of the tool you use to punch the holes?

Once again, thanks for your help and generous spirit, JD

   

[cowboy316]

RT
hey bud just a quick question bout where you get your spot they look nothing like the ones i use from tandy yours look more pitted and used evedn before your antiquing let me know where ya get the please bud
     Cowboy316

[Dalton Masterson]

JD, I will try to take a few pics tonite, and get them posted for you!
DM

[RollingThunder]

Here's mine JD (Might be similar to Dalton's) ...


C316 - I get them at Tandy ... they have antiqued brass and nickel versions.

[JD Alan]

Thanks RT. The closest thing I can find in the Tandy catalog is 8065, a one prong diamond hole punch. I can't find any reference to C 316. I appreciate your reply, I will check into this one, JD

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Thanks RT. The closest thing I can find in the Tandy catalog is 8065, a one prong diamond hole punch. I can't find any reference to C 316. I appreciate your reply, I will check into this one, JD

                       The c316 he is referring to is cowboy316

                                         TW

[RollingThunder]

 

LOL. Parson. I was responding to Tim's question about the antiqued spots. The one prong punch is correct Tandy the tool, though.

Sorta reminds me of that old Taxi episode where Rev. Jim is taking his taxi license and asks the guys, "What does a yellow light mean?"

They say, "Slow down."

So he says, "What ... does ... a yellow ... light ... mean."

They say, "Slow down."

He replies. "What ... ... does ... ... a yellllloooooow ... ... light ... ...  mean."

Thanks parson. I needed that chuckle after the day I had today!

[RollingThunder]

Trusty old YouTube ... here's the link!



Enjoy!

[Ace Lungger]

Catus Cowboy,
Here is one of the tools, that i use to poke my holes for 3/8" spots. Don't take either post I have made the wrong way!
O yes, I would love to have the setters that TW has, but sometimes you have to do, what you have to do!
I am not a very quialifed person to be speaking on this topic, for i have not used very many spots! i plan to, in my next few projects! but I am going to work on my carving for a while.
But it you have a hacksaw and files anyone can do this, if you have a grinder and a dremel it makes it easier.
i hope this helps
Later ACE

[JD Alan]

Ace, what a great idea!

RT, that is funny indeed (the c316 mix up)

I remember that drive test of Rev Jim, one of the funnest bits ever on TV. I also remember him playing on a grand piano. When he got done, one of his friends said "I didn't know you played the piano". Jim replied "Neither did I"

I printed out the picture of your punch, and I'll take it to Tandy to see if I can match it

Thanks a lot!

[Ace Lungger]

JD,
There easy to make!
Later
ACE

[Dalton Masterson]

Heres the method I use for spots.

First I set my divider for just a hair under the actual width of the prongs. I measure it at the bottom of the spot, not at the end of the prong. Note that the prongs are wider at the tips, than at the head of the spot.

Second, I transfer that measurement to the leather, and take my slit punch, and make 2 slits. Dont make the slits too big, as they will show if you get heavy handed. Just go through the leather.

Third, I poke the spot into the leather. I kinda need to squeeze the prongs in, to begin with, but once they are started, they stay fine.

[Dalton Masterson]

Fourth, I put the head of the spot into the hole I punched in a piece of scrap. This holds it in place.

Fifth, I take my old ruined beader, and gently tap the leather in the center of the prongs, to push the spot in as far as it will go. Keep the spot in the hole in the leather, to make this easier. Make sure you are not poking thru the leather, if your tool is kind of sharp edged. Mine is rounded off, but square on the end.

Sixth, I fold the prongs over into the center of the spot, and then gently tap them down into the spot itself. They will go clear past flush with the surface of the leather.

[Dalton Masterson]

Then we have a finished spot, the Dalton way. For more spots, I measure off of the completed spots, not the slits. I dont know that it matters, but its what I do.

These are the tools I use to do it.
My two dividers. One to set the prong width, and the other to set the distance between spots.
The leather with a hole in it. Easy tool to make. 
The little chisel like slit punch.
The ruined seeder punch. A nail punch or the like would probably work as well.
My hammer.

I hope this helps, and my way is probably an odd way, but it works for me, and goes fast. Much easier for me than using the Tandy setter.

DM

[cowboy316]

Dalton
tip top post thanks you for the info now i just need to get myself some wing dividers and this month tandy happens to have them on sale  so maybe ill pick some up
   Thanks again for the huge tip
       Cowboy316

[Springfield Slim]

I made this tool to pre-punch the holes. Just set it on the leather where you want the spot and hit it with a light tap. Finish off the holes with an awl. Makes it easier to keep the spots aligned, and all the holes are exactly the same.