Looking For Help On Holster

Started by JD Alan, March 01, 2009, 10:48:35 PM

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JD Alan

Gentlemen, after lots of practice and general messing around, I am determined to complete a pair of holsters this week. I've got the belt cut out and stamped for some time, waiting to decide what to do with it.

I've finally worked out a holster pattern I can live with, and have stamped the first one to (sort of) match the belt. Neither the belt or the holsters will be lined. I plan to use a welt on the holsters.

Here's my question: should I dye the holsters before or after sewing them together? It seems it would be easier to dye, then sew. I'm sure it can be done both ways, but I'd like to hear what you guys do.

Thanks very much, JD

The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

Dalton Masterson

I dye then sew, JD.

Unless I am using a walnut dye that soaks for a few days, then I sew then dye.

I sometimes like to make the inside a light brown, and the outside a darker brown on a holster, for a little contrast. It is way easier to do this before you sew.

DM
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knucklehead

dye then sew.

if you are going to dye it one color then i suggest that you do the dip method.
i have been doing the dip method on my 3 inside the waist holsters and the dye was more even then my other dye jobs.

you can get a plastic container suitable for dip dying at fred meyers.

do not put your finish coat on the holster untill after you have wet formed it.
putting a sealer on before you wetmold it will cause the leather to dry out uneven and cause a ugly look.

I'M #330 DIRTY RAT.

JD Alan

Thanks Dalton and Knucklehead. I wasn't planning on dyeing the inside of the holster, if possible, which would leave out dipping. That's not a hard and fast plan, so things could change.

Thanks for your input, I know you both have experience in this area, so it means a lot to me! JD
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

Marshal Will Wingam

Howdy, JD. Yes, you can do it either way. Dalton and Knucklehead have given you sound advice. I like to dye first unless I am going to use a natural dye that needs to darken in the sun and I want to give it character. I like to dip when possible. If I'm going to dye the stitching also, I like to sew first then dye but to dip it requires a substantial amount of dye to submerse the whole holster.

That's going to really look good. I like what you did with just two stamps. I suspect that many makers in the 1800's only had a few stamps and got the most out of them like you did. Nice worik.

SCORRS     SASS     BHR     STORM #446

JD Alan

Thanks for the feedback Will. I wasn't overly concerned about the stamping, I just wanted something on there, rather than plain jane. I've looked through several holster threads here over the last hour or so. I've seen quite a few, including yours that are neither lined or have the inside dyed. I like that simple look.

I'm really looking forward to getting the first set done and behind me. I can always use them as loaners for our monthly CAS orientation.

Thanks again, JD 
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

ChuckBurrows

Well I prefer dipping after sewing for two reasons:
1) I HATE sewing pre-deyed leather.....
2) Period holsters were seldom if ever dyed - coloring was done afterwards during the oiling stage or got that way from the sun. In making "aged" goods it is easier to get the proper look afterwards and since that's what I do.......
aka Nolan Sackett
Frontier Knifemaker & Leathersmith

knucklehead

after looking at your holster pattern again and looking at it closer, i noticed what apears to be a scar line or blemish line in the leather.

this character line tells me to use antique dye instead of regular dye.
i would use the med brown antique dye.
to me it would bring out  the character of the leather more than the regular dyes.


one more thing that caught my eye your stamping is very well placed and even. you did great on the stamping.
also i would have never thought about the 2 stamps you used together like you did.

another reason why i love leathercraft so much is there is no set rules on tooling the leather. you can pick what ever stamp or carving design you want.
the first reason i love leathercraft is its art that you can use all the time. i dont care too much for art that hangs on the wall. you just cant use that type of art like you can use a well made piece of leathercraft.

keep up the good work.

I'M #330 DIRTY RAT.

santee

Nice so far, JD. If you decide to sew after you dye, consider rubber gloves or you may get dye on your hands.
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JD Alan

I really appreciate all the input from you Pards. You've done this, I haven't, so your shared experience has great value to me.

If Chuck says he hates ro sew dyed leather, there's got to be a good reason for it, especially considering how much work he produces. I don't know yet why he hates it, but I bet I'll find out before too many projects!

Knucklehead, you are correct that there are marks on this piece, all of them due to my careless handling. I've got to develop a different approach to this, giving more consideration to protecting the surface of the project.

I've got some Fiebing's antique paste, but I'm not familiar with antique dye. I'll have to check that out.

I'm going to cut out and stamp the left holster today, then set about dyeing and sewing, though not necessairly in that order.

I'm also going to review Chuck's DVD again, the part on dyeing, and sewing. I just don't seem to retain info like I did when I was younger :P

I sure appreciate all the advice and encouragement, JD 
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

cowboy316

JD
  looking good there my friend your coming along great cant wait till its done
i took a class yesterday  and ill have pics posted tonight but im gonna leave ya
all in supense till then LOL
     Cowboy316

JD Alan

Thanks Cowboy, I look forward to your next project!

I was finally able to finish both of Chuck's holster DVDs. The second one won't play in my computer. It never has, but it will work in my home system DVD player. The second DVD shows Chuck carving a California Slim Jim holster, an excellent design and job, by the way. Chuck also does a dip dye of the Slim Jim, and illustrates his finishing technique.

I CANNOT overstress how helpful this DVD set is for a beginner like me. Listening while watching someone work through a holster project can't be beat, unless you were right there in the shop with them.

At this point I believe I will sew, then dip dye the holsters for this first project. I will likely rub the dye on the belt. I will also try some Fiebings antique paste on some scrap that I will dye at the same time as the holster, to see what I can come up with.

Thanks Chuck, and thanks everyone else for your input, JD     
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

ChuckBurrows

JD - contact the folks at Center Cross and have them replace that DVD.........
aka Nolan Sackett
Frontier Knifemaker & Leathersmith

Gun Butcher

  JD, I am coming in here kind of late but I have to tell you that you have a great start there.  I always say simple is best and your two stamp pattern is a perfect example of that.
I also noticed that your edges are cut very clean. Nice smooth flowing lines and your stitich line looks good. That tells me that you really took your time, something I have alot of trouble with.
  As soon as I can get some spare change together I am gonna hafta buy those DVD's of Chucks . The more I hear about them , the more I think they would really help me.   
                                                                 Gun Butcher
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Life is a Journey, the best that we can find in our travels is an honest friend.

TN Mongo

I feel like Chuck does.  I don't like sewing dyed leather, especially hand sewing.  I will do it sometimes when the customer wants the lining undyed on a belt.  Next time I sew dyed leather on an undyed belt lining, I'm going to use blue painter's masking tape on the liner to keep it clean.  That is a great idea that someone mentioned on another thread.

JD Alan

Thanks for all the encouraging words guys. I appreciate it.

Chuck, thanks for the DVD info. It hasn't been enough of a hassel, since it works in my house system. Something has to really mess up to motivate me to action :o

At this point my plan is to use Fiebings pro oil dye in light brown, followed by Fiebings antique finish in Sheridan Brown. I'll test it on a scrap from the piece I cut the holsters from.

It was suggested that I could mix about 10% Tan Kote with the antique finish. If anyone has any thoughts on this idea, especially if it's a BAD idea, please let me know!   

Thanks very much! JD
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

Johnny McCrae

Howdy JD,

I'm also jumping in late. I second what Gun Butcher said... You have a great start!

Now take your time and don't rush.

I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product.
You need to learn to like all the little everday things like a sip of good whiskey, a soft bed, a glass of buttermilk,  and a feisty old gentleman like myself

Wiley Desperado

JD the craftsmanship on your belt and holster really looks good pard.  I know the finished rig is going to be really nice. 
Wiley

Johnny Dingus

JD,

Good looking work there can't wait to see them finished.  Are those Tandy Stamps?  Very clean stamping.


Johnny Dingus
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JD Alan

They are indeed Tandy stamps. I bought them for $3.33 each, while they were having a pretty good sale.

The flowers are W531 & W532. The border is G603
The man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument.

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