Double or triple wads in a BP revolver

[DoubleDropB]

Anyone running this a revolver, specifically in a 58 Remmy? Instead of using a filler to bring the ball closer to the chamber mouth. I'm getting tired of using meal to accomplish this when running light loads. Thanks for the input.

DDB

[Fingers McGee]

I've never tried more than 1 wad under the ball.  Don't know whether it could cause problems or not.  Not sure what you call a reduced load, or why you'd want to use it.  My .36 load is 20 gr and .44 load is 25 gr.  They will both take out a knockdown target and are not harsh or full chamber loads.

FM

[Dalton Masterson]

What powder load are you using? It might be possible to use something like caulk backer rod maybe? I think using excess wads, would just be wasteful in the end.

I have no experience with downloading myself, as I shoot 30 gr loads in my 44's all the time.

DM

[DoubleDropB]

I run the reduced loads when my sons are shooting. I usually run around 30gr when I shoot.

[Fingers McGee]

It's been a while; but IIRC, I used a 20 gr load with a lubed wad in some Pietta '58s that I used to have without problems. 

It's been a few years since I've had them though.

FM

[Paladin UK]

Fer what its worth.........

I`ve used 21gns under a lubed wad `n` a 454 ball in this baby fer nearly 6yrs now
The ball dont come ta the mouth of the cylinder but I aint have any probs whatsover!!  When I first shot it I used ta top her up with a scoop of semilina, but like you got bored with that!! I couldnt see ANY loss of accuracy


I`m not saying what I do is right or wrong..It jest works fer me!!

Paladin (Whut lurvs the Holy Black ) UK

[Leo Tanner]

That's a beaut PUK, but I thought ya only shot steel frames

[Brizco-Z]

Ya Know Pard,

One other alternative is backer rod.  This is the petro-chem insulation rod, or rope that you get from the hardware store or Lowe's or someplace like that.  It is "solid" foam in that it is just like other foam tape insulation but, it is in round stock form.  Two diameters, 3/8" and 1/2" and in many feet lengths.  You can cut it to length and if you use a lot of it, you can make a little cutting fixture out of light wood scraps.  Cut a length, place over the powder and press in the round ball.  Then place bore butter lube over the ball and cap when ready.  The backer rod will melt down when fired and you should clean this out fairly quick when you're finished for the day.  Try it and see what you think.  There are some pards who use this in BP cartridges, with some success for down loading.

I still like simple charges, standard powder loads for .36 and .44 and then lube over the ball with a syringe filled with bore butter and I mix in a little olive oil in the winter to break down the bore butter a tad.

Good luck on you quest.

Brizco-Z

[Leo Tanner]

Sounds sticky Brizco.  I'm like you when it comes ta loading, let 'er bang the way Sam an God intended.  Love the syringe fer lubin.

[Brizco-Z]

Well Mr. Tanner,

The syringe thing is simple, It's one of the meat injectors with the metal needle.  I take and cut the sharp horse needle back with a tube cutter and let it just be long enough to get lube down where I want it, same one for .31, .36 or .44.  I load it full of bore butter and then you're ready to go.  I keep two in a plastic sleeve in the loading box and they keep fairly clean, not messey.  During the summer, straight bore butter, during the winter, I blend a tad bit of olive oil to thin it out, still need to keep it inside a coat pocket in a plastic sleeve, just to warm it a bit, also use handwarmers in the ammo box too, just place it inside the plastic pouch.

Works verrrrrrrry well for me, been using this method way back with Crisco when I first started shooting C&B, in 71.

Brizco-Z

[Leo Tanner]

SHB posted a good source fer the metal ones in another thread.  I'm still usin this one that came from the dentist, but just fer now.

[Roosterman]

Go to Circle Fly and look up there revolver wads. They are about 3/8 tall. They take up just about the right amount or room to put your ball right at the end of your cylinder. They are lubed too.

[Dick Dastardly]

Methinks you are workin' too hard on a problem that's already been solved.  Load 'em 44s up with a reduced load and seat a lube/sized EPP-UG bullet down snug on the powder with the DD Tower of Power cylinder loading stand.  Photo attached.

If you have one of the miss match Remingtons where the chambers are way smaller than the bore, simply load the EPP-UG bullets backwards.  They shoot great that way.  No other cookies, wads, fillers, lube smear or any other adjuncts are needed or desired.  Shoot all day and again the next day with no need to clean to maintain accuracy or function.

DD-DLoS

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Double ... or triple wads won't hurt a bit.  The guv-ermint used wads (5 I think) when they made the 55 gr load for the trapdoor carbine.  45-70 ... or in this case, 45-55

[Dirty Brass]

The only-est thing i read was not to use filler wads in bottle neck cases. I used a 1/8" nitro card in some 45/75 loads with Triple Seven, but haven't set them off yet. I'm waiting to see if that causes any problems or dangerous situations 

[Leo Tanner]

The only-est thing i read was not to use filler wads in bottle neck cases. I used a 1/8" nitro card in some 45/75 loads with Triple Seven, but haven't set them off yet. I'm waiting to see if that causes any problems or dangerous situations 

So yer gonna give em ta someone else an stand at a safe distance?

[Dirty Brass]

I was a hopin' they'd give me some kinda clue all by their lonesomes, but 'taint happened as of yet. I may hafta' cut me a stretch 'a rawhide 'bout 2 axe-handles 'er so and give'r a kind of a pull whilst it's still a restin' in the scabbard dont'cha see. Jest gonna tie 'er up tight to the railin' on that beam aholdin' up my roof on the coop. Was a'gonna use the railin' on the privvy, but got 'ta thinkin' that might make it a two holer ifn' my idea was a bad un' to begin with. A'sides, that roof already leaks buckets! 

Actually, I compressed pretty hard, and the card sat right at the bottom of the neck. I don't think it left any significant air space around the edges below it, if any at all. I'm not too worried about shooting them. Well, at least not the first one - after that my opinion may change

[Leo Tanner]

All funnin aside, I like ta use a slower burning powder for experimentin.  That trip 7 makes fer a hot load.  My wife asked me once when we were usin it why there was no fire.  Tolt her "cause there's nothin left ta burn once the hammer hits".

[Steel Horse Bailey]

All funnin aside, I like ta use a slower burning powder for experimentin.  That trip 7 makes fer a hot load.  My wife asked me once when we were usin it why there was no fire.  Tolt her "cause there's nothin left ta burn once the hammer hits".

[Dirty Brass]

All funnin aside, I like ta use a slower burning powder for experimentin.  That trip 7 makes fer a hot load.  My wife asked me once when we were usin it why there was no fire.  Tolt her "cause there's nothin left ta burn once the hammer hits".

Yup - dead-on right about the T7 being hot. Actually, the only reason I needed to experiment with it is 'cause it has to be a reduced load from the normal BP loads. I wasn't 'xactly shur what the 45/75 case held, and didn't want to trust my 60 gr. spout from the flask I had. My other stuff/powders I pretty much load 'er up and squeeze it in. I just had a fair amount of this T7 layin' around and decided to play some.....didn't really want to use it in my OT guns, but the OMV handles it OK. Might stuff some into the 45/60 and see how that works too. Been using BP and "RS" pyrodex up to now.