C&B shooting guide

[Grizzly Smith]

I've seen many many bits of information about boolits, but not very much about cap and ball shooting. Are there any guides dealing with lube, loads and casting?


Thanks

Grizz

[swordboy]

cabela's has a video in the black powder guns section of thair web site regarding loading your weapon

[hellgate]

This is "Frontiersman for dummies" by Captain Baylor:

www.curtrich.com/frontiersmen.html
------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following "Debugging" article was written by me in 1996 for the then quarterly Cowboy Chronicle. In the last 12 years I have learned a WHOLE LOT MORE so feel free to email me or post on this CAS City site for advice. There are a lot of folks out there like me that like to help and we all have different experiences and sometimes disagree because "your mileage may vary".


Debugging Colt Cap and Ball Revolvers for Cowboy Action Shooting
By Hellgate Tye, #3302
My very first real gun was an 1861 .36 caliber Colt Navy I got when I was in high school. It still
shoots like a charm. Too many shooters are scared off from using cap and ball guns because of all
the foibles of black powder itself and unreliability of percussion firearms. Some of the things I've
learned from competitive cap and balling may encourage others to dig theirs out of the back of
the gun safe, or even go buy a couple to get started. I have found percussion pistols to be quite
reliable once you get a few bugs out. They are an inexpensive way to get into Cowboy Action
Shooting. Decent revolvers can be purchased for as little as $100 mail order for those like me
who are too cheap to spend a small fortune.
With percussion pistols, there is no single "silver bullet" that makes everything work. It's a
combination of things, as discussed below. I am an experienced shooter, but not an expert
mechanic, and will bow humbly to the gunsmiths and others who know more than I.
FRAME - Brass frames have been known to shoot loose, especially with heavy loads. However, I
have known of others that never had any problems. I think case hardened steel is preferable to
hold things together. Loose alignment pins can be snugged up by tapping a small dent with a
center punch next to the hole in the frame. The mainspring can be lightened to smooth the
action by filing or grinding the edges to narrow it down. Be careful, as too light a spring can cause
major problems: (1) Hammer blowback will let caps fall down between the hammer and frame
and the rest of the caps won't fire [5 seconds each and you're standing there cussing and trying to
clear a loaded gun under the clock] and (2) Fouling buildup may slow hammer fall so the caps
don't "go off" [more misses].
SIGHTS - Colt cap and ball pistols frequently don t shoot to point of aim (three of the five I've
had shot to the right). All of mine shot high (no problem). I look at the factory sighting notch as
merely a reference point. If the gun shoots high, cut (with a Dremel tool) or file the sighting
notch in the hammer deeper. To lower the point of impact further, grind the top of the hammer
down and deepen the notch accordingly. Plan on ruining a file or two on the case hardening.
You can always adopt the six o clock hold if you are anywhere close. If the gun shoots low, you
may want to use conical balls since they are heavier than the round balls (around 200 grains vs.
140 for .44s and 130 grains vs. 81 in the .36) and impact about 2" higher at 10-15 yards. One can
always take a little off the front sight, but there is not much there with which to work.
If the gun shoots wide, it gets a little trickier. What I have done is cut (with a file or Dremel) the
sighting notch off center to the appropriate side. If the cut is too far over, I just fill in the notch
with acid core solder, and with a flat jewelers file, cut a new notch. The solder can be easily filed
to shape and darkened with touch up bluing. The front sight can be filed on one side to move
the point of impact over a little. Check for burrs on the barrel wedge slot.
BARREL - The loading lever latch may not hold during recoil, dropping the rammer into the
cylinder and freezing up the works. A little filing of the bevel to allow a deeper mating of the
latch and barrel catch will prevent this from happening.
The wedge may be replaced with an after-market one if it wears and can't be driven in far
enough to narrow the cylinder gap adequately. If the cylinder gap becomes too wide, you may
have the cylinder pin shooting loose, and it is time for a new gun or a gunsmith. Burrs on the
wedge slot may cause misalignment of the barrel to the frame and contribute to shooting off
point of aim. They can be filed off, but if the gun shoots straight, leave them be!
NIPPLES - If the caps fit snugly, all cylinders fire, and the caps don't get blown back, then leave
them alone! Buy a variety of caps until you find which brand gives a snug fit. I borrowed a
Remington from a friend during a match, and all four remaining caps fell off with the first shot
(I think that's called four misses)! Don't waste your time pinching caps to make them fit; get the
right size. There are too many other things to track during a match.
If one chamber doesn't always fire, make a shim out of fine copper or other soft small wire bent
into a circle and pounded flat like a small thin washer. Place it under the nipple where it seats in
the cylinder. That will raise it a few thousandths to enable the gun to fire.
When a cap falls between the hammer and frame (the gun goes "clunk", and you go nuts) you
are getting blowback of the hammer. There are three causes I have identified: the hammer fall is
too light, the flash hole in the nipple is too big, or the load is too heavy. Get a stronger
mainspring, replace the nipples, or use a lighter charge and/or bullet (no more conicals).
I have replaced the nipples in all my pistols with Uncle Mike's nipples. They are stainless, have
smaller flash holes, and the #10 Remington caps I use snug up beautifully on them. Thread sizes
are 6x.75mm or 12x28 depending on the make of pistol. Ruger Old Army replacement nipples are
12x28, and the other Uncle Mike's revolver replacement nipples are 6x.75. At the beginning of a
match just prior to the initial loading, clean the oil out of the cylinders and nipples and run a
nipple pick through each flash hole.
CYLINDER - If you have calipers, measure the inside diameter of the chambers. If one is off,
mark that one as the empty chamber you don't load. Or, you can set up six targets, and shoot
from a rest into each target from the same chamber several times to see which cylinder groups
the worst. Mark that one as the empty (sixth) chamber. I use one or two dots of fingernail polish
or enamel touch up paint to indicate which cylinder not to load. You can also just take the
nipple out to mark it. Yet I hate to scramble for a spare when a stage calls for "shoot five, reload,
and shoot a sixth round". Marking the sixth chamber takes away one more thing I have to
remember (like did I put powder in this one or not? Oh well, too late now!)
Get an in-line capper for those stages where a reload is required and merely cap the second
charged (with powder and ball) revolver under the clock. Using the capper is actually faster than
reloading a cartridge gun (your ONLY advantage with a cap and ball!!). By the way, the nipple
cut-outs on Remingtons are far too small for a capper to be used, and you must fumble with
loose caps under the clock.
FOULING - Pyrodex and Black Mag powders produce less fouling, while blackpowder is the
choice of the "purists". Even when using an under the ball lubricating wad, I put an over the ball
lube in each chamber. This keeps the cylinder face fouling soft as it blows out the gap and
prevents cylinder binding against the barrel. Depending on the temperature, I use different
chamber greases: for cool/cold temperatures, use GOOP or other lanolin based hand cleaner, for
fair/warm temperatures, use Crisco, for hot temperatures, use 1000 Plus or Wonder Lube. Plastic
12-20cc syringes (though not very period) help in filling the chambers. I sometimes spread a little
black powder lube on the face of the cylinder to wipe off fouling if time permits between stages.
I use the heaviest grease I can find (Lubriplate) on the cylinder pin. It keeps fouling from being
blown in between the cylinder and the pin, thus slowing or stopping cylinder rotation. Don't get
too tight a cylinder gap, or fouling will stop the cylinder from turning. Conical balls, under ball
wads, and over ball lube all keep barrel fouling to a minimum.
A rag to wipe your hands and gun grips off after loading helps in cleanup and prevents a slippery
gun in rainy weather (yes, us Orygun Rangers still shoot when it is only raining lightly).
BULLETS - If your club uses ringers or allows a hit (without falling) to count, then a .36 caliber
Navy is fine. If fallers are used, the 80-82 grain ball isn't going to work. LEE makes a conical 130
grain bullet mold in .36 caliber that packs more punch and might work. I have found .44 caliber
round balls work fine for fallers and the conical ball molds throw 200-220 grain bullets that will
knock down anything you hit.
MODELS and FIT - The Navies (1851 and 1861) have smaller grips, 7 1/2" barrels, and can be had
in both .36 and (historically incorrect) .44 calibers. The Army, Dragoon, and Walkers are all .44
caliber and have larger grips. The Dragoons and Walker are horse pistols that are noticeably
heavier, but throw more powder and smoke than the other belt pistols designed to be carried on
the person.
Don't let all these things that can go wrong with a cap and ball discourage you from giving them
a try. Figure you aren't going to break any speed records, but you'll have a whole lot more fun
than anyone else at the match as long as you keep that smoke wagon turnin'. After a short while
you sort of get a rhythm in loading that can be, shall we say, meditative. Think of all the time
you will save not having to process your brass, plus you've got a free reloading outfit built onto
each gun! You'll also grow to appreciate why Wild Bill Hickock carefully cleaned, oiled, and
reloaded his two Navies on a frequent basis. You can bet he took the time to do some debugging
too!

[Grizzly Smith]

Thanks sword, that helps.

Hellgate, excellent article. The reason I posted this was almost all of the posts are about cartridge blackpowder reloading. And that's fine cause I'll be loading for the rifle, but I fully intend shooting 58 Rem and 60 Army and doing it C&B. And I'm leaving the door wide open for a couple Navy's down the road.

I saw the video on youtube of the expertvillage guys and watching him reload raised a couple questions. Mainly when he sat the ball on the chamber he took it out of a small container of what I can only assume was lube with a pair of tweezers.

Here's my main question: which is the generally accepted method; powder+lubed wad+ball or powder+lubed ball+lube?

Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks for the time and the article,

Grizz

[hellgate]

Basically, whatever works, works. I tend to lube excessively since I want my wheels to keep turning for the whole match. My method is to pour powder, place a lubed wad, ram a ball, and grease the top of the ball.
Prelubing the ball seems too messy for me (like in the video you saw) however one of the Aussies (or is he a kiwi?) uses 1:10 oil (not sure if mineral or veggie) :beeswax and rolls little pea sized pills of it and forms it into a cone onto the back or the ball. They apparently stick to the lead pretty well. He makes them up while watching TV or a western movie. So all of his balls have the lube attatched and he rams them lube down into the powder and he swears they shoot all day by keeping fouling soft. Haven't tried it yet but should work.  I make my own lube wads from 1/8" thick F-1 automotive wool felt. I punch them out with a 3/8" (36cal) or a 7/16" (44cal) hole punch chucked into a drill press over a block of wood. I probably don't need to but I also put automotive (cheap rotgut $2/lb) grease over the ball with an irrigation syringe. I lay a thin bead around the juncture of the ball & chamber wall. My Colts will shoot all day. The Remmies need a drop of oil on the front of the cylinder at the frame contact point between stages. Takes 2 seconds and a jiggle of the cylinder to keep it freed up.
I keep a towel on my gun cart to wipe my hands off. I do not like to handle oily things 'cause it rains here alot and the guns can get slippery so lubed balls would add to slipperyness. The wads and syringes are pretty clean. I've never had a chain fire but I am anal about loading.

[Black Powder]

Great article, Hellgate.  I suspect I read it years ago and have pretty much assimilated it and forgotten who helped me get off to a good start.  Thank you.

I also do as Hellgate does: powder, lubed wad, ball, then grease.  I remove the cylinder when I load the powder & wad.  Not necessary, and I don't use a loading stand.  It's easier and faster for me this way.  The cylinder goes back in the gun and I seat the wads against the powder with the rammer first, then I go around again and ram each ball.  I remove the cylinder again and take out the tube of Bore Butter.  Angled just right, a generous dap gets applied at each loaded chamber.  I use a piece of wood that I cut a couple inches off from a paint stir stick to smoosh the lube over the chambers.  Makes for a very clean finished look.  The excess gets wiped back into the tube of Bore Butter.  Cylinder is put back in gun.  I remove the cylinder a third time for capping at the loading table.  In-line capper.  Those dang things are tiny and when it gets cold, it can be frustrating trying to pick them up.  I use the handy dandy paint stir thing to press the caps securely onto the nipples.  Two reasons for this: 1) using one's thumb hurts after a while.  But (2), it would hurt worse if a cap went off whilst pressing it in place with one's thumb.  I've filed the wedge to facilitate all this cylinder removal.  Can pop it out with my thumb.  My hands stay much cleaner now that I'm not touching any grease.  The gun stays cleaner too as I can quickly attend to the inside of the frame and cylinder pin to keep any fouling that would lead to binding to a minimum.

BP

[hellgate]

I don't use a loading stand. I just keep the muzzle up, charge 5, seat 5 wads, ram 5 balls, grease 5 then cap @ the loading table.
I have made a push stick for final seating of the caps from a 4-5" long dowel (either 5/16" or 3/8" dia) glued into a smoothed piece of wood like a long starter.  I used to just use the push stick (beveled slightly on the business end) but my palm got sore from pushing so I glued one end into a piece of wood so it there was a nice nob on the opposite end to cushion my hand. This was after shooting a "True Grit" endurance match where EACH stage required FOUR revolvers, TWO rifles and a shotgun. I did a lot of capping.

[Grizzly Smith]

I can't say how much I appreciate these posts. This explains a great deal of what I was looking for.

I've only been a SASS member for a week and a few days and I knew before then I wanted to shoot BP. My brother and I just got back from the Show Me Shoot Out and I only saw a very few BP shooters. I mentioned to my brother that I could see a pair of Walkers somehwere in my future!!   He said' "Why?" and I said with a grin, "Just to show off!"





Yes, I am a very twisted person!!!!


Grizz

[Steel Horse Bailey]

That's as good a reason as any!

[Noz]

I stand my 1860s in a cheap loading stand. Dump five charges from a flask, stuff an 11mm home cut, home lubed wad on top of the charge then a .457 ball. Ram with the loading lever as Sam Colt intended. Cap with a snail capper, push with a short dowel inserted into a lamp pull (for decoration) and I'm ready to go. Load both revolvers while one shooter is shooting a stage and clearing his guns.

Griz, missed you at Branson. Did you make it?

[Grizzly Smith]

Griz, missed you at Branson. Did you make it?

Yeah, Nozzle, I was there Saturday for over an hour. My brother and I talked with Bull for a few mins. Everyone looked very intent and focused, I just didn't have the heart to interupt and break someones train of thought. But just standing there watching was very educational. But I have to admit I got a little distracted by the carts and trying to file away all of the ideas of making my own!!! 

We're gonna try and shoot for the next Ranger meet in November. Went to the gun show in Springfield today and talked with the owner of gunshop in Ozark, can't remember his name. When the bankroll is ready to go, gonna see him first.

Anyway, How'd ya fair at the Shoot Out?

Grizz

[Noz]

Wound up solidly in the middle. Big improvement from solidly in the last place.

One thing you must remember, I have never met a SASS cowboy that wouldn't happily stop whatever they are doing to talk guns.

[Black Powder]

Wound up solidly in the middle. Big improvement from solidly in the last place.

One thing you must remember, I have never met a SASS cowboy that wouldn't happily stop whatever they are doing to talk guns.

I can certainly attest to that.  About the only time I still refrain from asking questions is at the loading table.  Griz, I've seen so many good cart ideas that I started just taking pictures of them (with permission)!

BP

[Bow View Haymaker]

I am going to jump in hear with a few qustions if i'ts OK.  I started with a remington .44 C & B and a Ruger Blackhawk.  After I got another cartridge revolver and a conversion cylinder for the remington I havn't shot it with C & B since then. 

I have been wanting to go back to C & B once in a while and am looking for a mate for the remington.

Some ideas quesions and comment on loading.
I started with the bore butter but it must have gotten old or was to cold of a day because it was almost imposible to get out of the tube. 
I started usig lubed felt wads between the powder and ball.  That worked fine but still takes time and the capping I still have to work out.  I have had to pinch each cap a bit to get them to stay on. 

I did hear of some people putting the wad over the ball instead of under it.  I can understand that this would keep the lube out of the powder and as long as a bit of lead is getting shaved off around the ball the seal is good.  Does it make much difference?

I have wondered about using the powder pellets that are being sold.  It migth speed things up and be very consistent but I think they oly come in 30gr and 50 gr.  a 15 or 20 grain pelllet would be better.  could a pellet be cut in half?

I have also thought about making paper cartridges.  using cig papers loose powder, ball and a felt wad over the ball again to keep the lube out of the powder. 

What about using a lubed bulet instead of seperate ball and wad/lube?   

Could I use a paper cartridge with loose powder and a black powder lubed bullet? 

Is a 200 grain too much bullet for a C & B cylinder? ( I use 200 gr bullets in the cartridges through the conversion ok) 

OR how about a black powder pellet and a lubed bullet.  It would be a pre measured powder charge and a pre lubed bullett.

I am triying to think of ways to make the whole loading prosecc at a match smoother and faster.

Sorry for all the questions and thank in advance for your help.





   

[Black Powder]

I like using Bore Butter much more than I used to, now that I'm applying it with a flat stick.  I will say that using a wad between ball & powder doesn't keep it from melting into the powder on a hot day.  I need to look up what the recommended hot weather lube is.

I've done paper cartridges, exactly as you described, and using the right lube that won't melt in the heat, it should work.  Try to find thin papers.  EZ Wider and other drugstore brands burn slowly.  If you have a smoke shop close, they'll have an assortment.  You'll usually have to puncture the cartridge with a pin through the nipples to ensure combustion.

Darn good question about possibly using conical bullets, like BigLube, in paper cartridges.  What say you, DD?

BP

[Noz]

I am going to jump in hear with a few qustions if i'ts OK.  I started with a remington .44 C & B and a Ruger Blackhawk.  After I got another cartridge revolver and a conversion cylinder for the remington I havn't shot it with C & B since then.

I have been wanting to go back to C & B once in a while and am looking for a mate for the remington.

Some ideas quesions and comment on loading.
I started with the bore butter but it must have gotten old or was to cold of a day because it was almost imposible to get out of the tube.
I started usig lubed felt wads between the powder and ball.  That worked fine but still takes time and the capping I still have to work out.  I have had to pinch each cap a bit to get them to stay on. BORE BUTTER GETS VERY HARD IN COLD WEATHER AND WAY TOO SOFT IN HOT. A MIXTURE OF 50/50 BEESWAX AND VEGETABLE SHORTENING MAKES A GOOD OVER BALL LUBE.
TRESO NIPPLES SOLVES THE MIS-FITTING CAP PROBLEM. I GET MINE FROM THE POSSIBLE SHOP.

LOOK IN THE "DARK ARTS" AND THERE IS A VERY SIMPLE MODIFICATION TO THE REMINGTON CYLINDER THAT ALLOWS THE USE OF A SNAIL CAPPER LIKE THE TED CASH OR THE THOMPSON CENTER U-VIEW.

I did hear of some people putting the wad over the ball instead of under it.  I can understand that this would keep the lube out of the powder and as long as a bit of lead is getting shaved off around the ball the seal is good.  Does it make much difference?
THE GUNS ARE NEVER LOADED LONG ENOUGH WHEN SHOOTING COWBOY THAT LUBE CONTAMINATED POWDER IS A PROBLEM. SAM COLT ADVISED TO NOT USE ANY LUBE OR WAD. JUST BALL ON TOP OF THE POWDER. IF YOU ARE CONFIDENT THAT YOUR BALLS ARE OF DEAD SOFT LEAD AND HAVE NO CASTING FLAWS, THEN NEITHER WAD OR LUBE IS NEEDED. I'VE HAD SOME CHAIN FIRES THAT STARTED FROM THE FACE OF THE CYLINDER(DUE TO TOO HARD A BULLET) SO I USE A HOME MADE WAD SOAKED IN A MELTED WAX MIXTURE. WAXED WAD DOES ADD SOME LUBE TO THE FACE OF THE CYLINDER WHEN FIRING THAT WILL HELP THE REMINGTONS SHOOT LONGER BETWEEN CLEANINGS.

I have wondered about using the powder pellets that are being sold.  It migth speed things up and be very consistent but I think they oly come in 30gr and 50 gr.  a 15 or 20 grain pelllet would be better.  could a pellet be cut in half?
I'VE SEEN A FEW PEOPLE TRY THE PELLETS BUT I'VE NEVER SEEN ANYONE STAY WITH THEM. EXPENSIVE TOO.

I have also thought about making paper cartridges.  using cig papers loose powder, ball and a felt wad over the ball again to keep the lube out of the powder.
PAPER CARTRIDGES ARE FUN BUT UN NECESSARY. JUST AS EASY TO LOAD WITH A FLASK AND BALL.

What about using a lubed bulet instead of seperate ball and wad/lube?   
SOME ARE USING THE LITTLE BIG LUBE BULLET.

Could I use a paper cartridge with loose powder and a black powder lubed bullet? AGAIN , THE PAPER CARTRIDGES CAN BE MADE UP BUT ARE UN-NECESSARY. IT WOULD BE JUST FOR YOUR OWN ENJOYMENT, NOT FOR ANY GREAT ADVANTAGE.

Is a 200 grain too much bullet for a C & B cylinder? ( I use 200 gr bullets in the cartridges through the conversion ok)


OR how about a black powder pellet and a lubed bullet.  It would be a pre measured powder charge and a pre lubed bullett.
I USE ONLY ROUND BALLS AND LOOSE POWDER SO I CAN'T ANSWER THAT.


I am triying to think of ways to make the whole loading prosecc at a match smoother and faster.
THE EASIEST WAY IS TO TAKE YOUR REVOLVERS AND LOADING STAND TO THE UNLOADING TABLE, ACT AS UNLOADING OFFICER WHILE YOU RELOAD. I CAN GET MY REVOLVERS (1860 ARMYS) RELOADED IN ABOUT THE TIME IT TAKES ONE SHOOTER TO COME TO THE LINE, SHOOT THE STAGE AND CLEAR HIS GUNS AND WATCH HIM UNLOAD AS REQUIRED. SOMETIMES LONGER, SOMETIMES LESS.

Sorry for all the questions and thank in advance for your help.

THE WHOLE CAP AND BALL REVOLVER THING IS NOT ROCKET SCIENCE AND SHOULD NOT BE OVER THOUGHT. IT'S A SIMPLE PROCESS THAT TAKES A LITTLE TIME TO GET DOWN PAT.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

It's like any other skill:  the more practice you do, the better you get.

I'll echo Nozzie:

It ain't Rocket Surgery or Brain Science !

[Fingers McGee]

Quoting Bow View Haymaker

Some ideas quesions and comment on loading.
I started with the bore butter but it must have gotten old or was to cold of a day because it was almost imposible to get out of the tube.  I reserve bore butter for lubing the arbor on Colt style revolvers.  As an over the ball lube/sealer it's an exhorbitant expense that isn't necessary - Crisco is cheaper

I started usig lubed felt wads between the powder and ball.  That worked fine but still takes time and the capping I still have to work out.  I have had to pinch each cap a bit to get them to stay on.  Lubed felt wads are the way to go - It doesnt take any longer to load and is way cleaner than an over the ball grease.  As stated previously, Treso nipples and #10 Remington caps will eliminate the 'pinching the cap' situation.  Opening up the nipple window with a Dremel will allow the use of a revolver capper and speed the process also

I did hear of some people putting the wad over the ball instead of under it.  I can understand that this would keep the lube out of the powder and as long as a bit of lead is getting shaved off around the ball the seal is good.  Does it make much difference? While I've never tried it; I cant see where an over the ball wad would be beneficial.  When the lubed wad is under the ball, the burning powder melts the lube which helps keep the fouling soft and prevents subsequent shots from tinning the bore.  A lubed wad over the ball wiould not heat up enough to melt the lube.  As long as the lube isn't liquid, like Noz said, it wouldn't have enough time to foul the powder during a CAS match

I have wondered about using the powder pellets that are being sold.  It migth speed things up and be very consistent but I think they oly come in 30gr and 50 gr.  a 15 or 20 grain pelllet would be better.  could a pellet be cut in half?  Have never used them, always considered them too expensive to try.

I have also thought about making paper cartridges.  using cig papers loose powder, ball and a felt wad over the ball again to keep the lube out of the powder.  I've tried this and determined that, for me anyhow, it was more work than it was worth for a C&B revolver during a CAS match.  Looked cool; but wasnt worth it.  Now, if i were to be out on the plains and needed a way to load my revolver quickly on the run from a band of hostiles, it would probably be worth the trouble.

What about using a lubed bulet instead of seperate ball and wad/lube? Same as previous

Could I use a paper cartridge with loose powder and a black powder lubed bullet?  I load for my 1863 Sharps .54 percussion rifle; but again, donth think it's worth the trouble for C&B revolvers 

Is a 200 grain too much bullet for a C & B cylinder? ( I use 200 gr bullets in the cartridges through the conversion ok)  It isnt too much bullet for the gun; but a waste of lead for CAS IMHO.  A .454 cast roundball is more economical.

OR how about a black powder pellet and a lubed bullet.  It would be a pre measured powder charge and a pre lubed bullett. Again IMHO not worth the expense or effort

I am triying to think of ways to make the whole loading prosecc at a match smoother and faster.  Like a lot of Frontiersmen, I do my cylinder charging at or near the unloading table.  I have a gun stand on the side of my guncart and charge the chambers for both pistols in about the time it takes two shooters to complete the stage.  While I'm there, I act as unloading table officer. 

Sorry for all the questions and thank in advance for your help.  One thing about Soot Lords; we're always glad to help an apprentice in the way of the one true powder 

To paraphrase Steel Horse Bailey -  The more you practice, the better you get

Fingers (Show Me MO smoke) McGee

[Cuts Crooked]

I have wondered about using the powder pellets that are being sold.

I'll chime in on this one. I tried Pyrodex pellets in one match, and got serious inconsistancy! Some shots were stout, some felt really puny! At CAS ranges it wouldn't have any real effect on accuracy, but it affected my shooting by distracting me. Also had one give a really strange "rocket effect" going downrange! Really wierd recoil changes! Won't use em again, but it wuz worth a try so I could say I dun it!

[Bow View Haymaker]

Wow,

Thanks for the Great anawers to all my questions. 
I hope it helps others out too.

Now anyone got another  Pietta '58 that they want to give I mean sell me to go wit the one I have?