Waterglass?

[Mossyrock]

If one were inclined to purchase a small amount of Waterglass (sodium silicate) for the purpose of sealing Mag-Tech shotshells. where might one begin looking?

[Dalton Masterson]

I think the pharmacy is where, but I havent bought any yet either. DM

[Wills Point Pete]

 All the Pharmacies down here look at me like I have three heads when I ask for waterglass. I am told that Tractor Supply has it. I just use Duco cement, myself. One of these days I'll try waterglass but Duco is cheap.

[Adirondack Jack]

You could, but I wouldn't.  it was a fair answer 75 years ago when modern polymer-based glues didn't exist.  The downside is it is a pain to work with and is lousy at holding a card well enough.  Dropped shells will break the waterglass loose, etc.

I use YELLOW carpenter's glue, specifically Elmers Probond (a pint is like $6 at Walmart).  Line up the assembled shells, a drop in each, swish around with a Q-tip, let stand ten minutes and call em done.  Drop-proof and water resistant.  Best of all very little residue inside the shell necks and what little there is simply acts as "substrate" for the next gluing.  Buildup is self-limiting (peels off when fired if heavy).

[Fox Creek Kid]

Heads up warning about Duco contact cement: the stuff can really mess with your head!! Powerful fumes!! I'll never use it again as it gave me a splitting headache!! 

[Noz]

My experience with "waterglass", sodium silicate, was all good. Went on easly and sealed well. The smallest container I could buy was a quart. I think I paid $12 for it. Enough to last for a lifetime. No fumes and for the green team, enviormentaly friendly.
When I was a child it was used extensively as an egg preservative. A clean, fresh egg was dipped in it. This gave an airtight seal and allowed the egg to remain fresh for an extended period of time.

[Fingers McGee]

My experience with "waterglass", sodium silicate, was all good. Went on easly and sealed well. The smallest container I could buy was a quart. I think I paid $12 for it. Enough to last for a lifetime. No fumes and for the green team, enviormentaly friendly.

+1. 

When I was a child it was used extensively as an egg preservative. A clean, fresh egg was dipped in it. This gave an airtight seal and allowed the egg to remain fresh for an extended period of time.

Were those dragon eggs or dinosuar eggs you were preserving Noz?? 

Fingers (Show Me MO smoke) McGee

[Howdy Doody]

Is it a adhesion issue with the all brass shells? Is that why waterglass is popular? I have used regular old elmers white glue to hold cards at the end when I make up blanks using plastic hulls. It dries so clear it is hard to see, but the glue holds them fast. I have some over shot cards I got years ago and they are such a tight fit, that they might not even need glue. Circle Fly, I think, and they are larger than 12ga and smaller than 10ga. Call them, they used to be very helpful.
I wonder if clear silicon sealer would hold fast too. That stuff will hold to brass, but drying time is longer.

[Mossyrock]

Well, I searched the interwebz, and purchased some from a vendor off of Amazon.  I have NO doubt that I will be blessed with enough for several lifetimes.....

[Grogan]

Prolly kinda sorta like this (click to enlarge)



to be found at your local Pharmacy (even the one with the 3 Headed Pharmacist) 

Although the Elmer's ProBond doesn't sound like a half bad idea either.

[Noz]

+1. 
Were those dragon eggs or dinosuar eggs you were preserving Noz?? 

Fingers (Show Me MO smoke) McGee

Armadillo!!!

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Well I guess I'll add, even 'tho you (Mossyrock) already have yours.  You can TRY a pharmacy, but you'd be better off going to a TSC (Tractor Supply Co.) or a similar farm supplier.

As to better adhesion, yes, the Elmers and Duco and the like will adhere better, but waterglass washes out and doesn't leave residue like the other glues.  I've dropped shells sealed with w-glass, but never had the wad let go because of the w-glass cracking.

I have, however, found that if loaded rounds with the w-glass sealant are left for a long time, you have to re-do the sealant.  (a year or so)

[Charlie Bowdre]

I have, however, found that if loaded rounds with the w-glass sealant are left for a long time, you have to re-do the sealant.  (a year or so)

Same here . I do use it for my Magteck 12 gauge brass but do not load a large number which may sit for a bit . Found that the older they get they tend to crack????a bit .

Other then that works great.
Dutchy

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Same here . I do use it for my Magteck 12 gauge brass but do not load a large number which may sit for a bit . Found that the older they get they tend to crack????a bit .

Other then that works great.
Dutchy

... And since I have nearly a quart, it only takes a few minutes to re-seal them with another application.

[Sespe Badger]

Is it a adhesion issue with the all brass shells? Is that why waterglass is popular? I have used regular old elmers white glue to hold cards at the end when I make up blanks using plastic hulls. It dries so clear it is hard to see, but the glue holds them fast. I have some over shot cards I got years ago and they are such a tight fit, that they might not even need glue. Circle Fly, I think, and they are larger than 12ga and smaller than 10ga. Call them, they used to be very helpful.
I wonder if clear silicon sealer would hold fast too. That stuff will hold to brass, but drying time is longer.

Hi Howdy,

I know you're here somewhere, but I haven't found you yet.  I have always sworn by plain old elmer's white glue also.  It worked fine in the 95 degrees and 15 percent humidity back home.  But the 5% humidity here today did them in. One in three of my shells were coming apart this morning!  Really embarrassing to be leaving a trail of #8 shot everywhere I go.  These are all loads made in the last 2 weeks, not old ones.

Fortunately, 10X had some BP loaded plastic shells, so I'm back in business for the rest of the shoot.

[Abilene]

I started off sealing with elmers wood glue, then bought a quart of waterglass at a mom and pop pharmacy.  Like some others experienced, the seal seemed to get weak after a couple months for me (I only ever had one come apart, and that was inside the scattergun after the first round was fired), so if they've been sitting for a while I would give 'em another swab of waterglass with the Q-tip before a match.  I like that it dries very quickly, too.  HOWEVER, I thought I had a life-time supply as well in that quart jar, but it DRIED UP on me after 6 or 7 years.  I didn't work out of the big jar, I poured some into a small baby food jar as it was easier to work with.  So the big jar wasn't opened very often, but I guess the amount of air that was in there after a while was enough to make it very thick and unuseable.  I tried adding water to thin it, since it is a solution, but had limited success with that.  So now I"m back to using wood glue.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

I keep mine in the fridge.  No loss - so far.  It's been there for about 1 1/2 years.

I don't know if it makes any difference, but since it works for film and new batteries, I decided to try it.

[Rusty Spurless]

, I thought I had a life-time supply as well in that quart jar, but it DRIED UP on me after 6 or 7 years. 

I cant comment on waterglass one way or another cause I have never used (but would like to try it some time) but I have a cure for it going bad on ya.

I am a fair amateur wood worker and to keep my finishes from going bad I use a finish preserve to keep it fresh. You shoot a blast of it into your finish when you are done I it lays on top of it keeping air from getting to it & spoiling whats left.

I dunno how it will work with waterglass but all my other finishes from urethane to shellac will last pert near forever.

You can get it from Lee Valley

[Jed Cooper]

If one were inclined to purchase a small amount of Waterglass (sodium silicate) for the purpose of sealing Mag-Tech shotshells. where might one begin looking?

iI buy water glass at a local drug store here in Indianapolis. It's marketed by a company by the name HUMCO I like it, but it does dry out. Hope this helps.   Jed

[Sespe Badger]

Hi Howdy,

I know you're here somewhere, but I haven't found you yet.  I have always sworn by plain old elmer's white glue also.  It worked fine in the 95 degrees and 15 percent humidity back home.  But the 5% humidity here today did them in. One in three of my shells were coming apart this morning!  Really embarrassing to be leaving a trail of #8 shot everywhere I go.  These are all loads made in the last 2 weeks, not old ones.

Fortunately, 10X had some BP loaded plastic shells, so I'm back in business for the rest of the shoot.

Well, I went back to reload these today, and found out someting interesting:
1)  All the rounds that let go were my 'new' loads - brand new brass shells and the new overshot cards I ordered.
2)  The overshot cards are only 11 gauge and are loose in the shells
3)  The same cards in my 'used' shells are tight.

So therefore, I don't think it was the low humidity.  I think the brand-new shells were too smooth on the inside, the glue couldn't grab.  It was around 30% humidiity today and I could pop the rest of the overshot cards loose with my thumb.

I reloaded all the shells with shot, new overpowder card (still stuck with the 11g), crimped the end slightly, then hot-glued the whole sucker together.  We'll see if it holds together...