Is there a easy way to check headspace on a Sharps rifle

[Ace Lungger]

Is there a simple way to check head space on a Sharps?
Any help i would be great full for!
Thanks Ace

[Delmonico]

Is there a simple way to check head space on a Sharps?
Any help i would be great full for!
Thanks Ace

Sure is, simple, anyone can do it if you have a mike.  Gunsmith friend taught me this, will get you in the ball park to know if you have trouble.  Take an unfired case (a second of another brand or lot # is even better)  Take a roll of masking tape wider than the rim, mike it.  Then put a layer on the rim, trim with razor blade.  When you can not shut the action with out ease your headspace will be right about in between the thickness of the last layer that allowed it to close with ease and the one that didn't.  Works with any firearm and case type.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

                                            Good " information " Dell, Thanks for sharing 


                                                               tEN wOLVES 

[Delmonico]

                                            Good " information " Dell, Thanks for sharing 


                                                               tEN wOLVES 

Stupid thing was when Harry 'spained it to me, all I could say was daaaaa.  He didn't have a 8X57 headspace gauge, and we wanted to check an old Mauser.  Yep it was tight as a drum.

[boot strap jack]

I like that info, I would writethat down for later use, but I would forget where I put it if I remembered it at all.
BSJ

[John Taylor]

On a sharps the best way is with a feeler gauge from the top, also works on high walls. The tape trick I use all the time but with a falling block is has a tendency to slide on the  base of the cartridge. If a .005" gauge is not snug then you can start stretching brass. Most old gun have .005-.010". Lower pressure rounds have a tendency to push the primer out instead of stretch the brass. Firing pin strikes and moves cartridge forward, low pressure does not stretch brass as the wall grip the side of the chamber but there is enough pressure to move the primer back to the breach block, very common on BP guns.

[Delmonico]

On a sharps the best way is with a feeler gauge from the top, also works on high walls. The tape trick I use all the time but with a falling block is has a tendency to slide on the  base of the cartridge. If a .005" gauge is not snug then you can start stretching brass. Most old gun have .005-.010". Lower pressure rounds have a tendency to push the primer out instead of stretch the brass. Firing pin strikes and moves cartridge forward, low pressure does not stretch brass as the wall grip the side of the chamber but there is enough pressure to move the primer back to the breach block, very common on BP guns.

Good point John, I've used the feeler gauge on revolvers before.  When I bought my rebarreled Low-Wall in Hornet I used the tape to check headspace, but the 1885 action does cam forward a bit as you close it.  Never tried it on the Sharps, but I can see the feller gage would work a bit better on it.

Another thought, I bet the Plasti-Gauge stuff we used to use to check bearing clearance would work well in some situations.

In any case if there looks like there is some sort of problem, the next step would be a smith with the proper Go/No Go gauges.

[John Taylor]

Good point John, I've used the feeler gauge on revolvers before.  When I bought my rebarreled Low-Wall in Hornet I used the tape to check headspace, but the 1885 action does cam forward a bit as you close it.  Never tried it on the Sharps, but I can see the feller gage would work a bit better on it.

Another thought, I bet the Plasti-Gauge stuff we used to use to check bearing clearance would work well in some situations.

In any case if there looks like there is some sort of problem, the next step would be a smith with the proper Go/No Go gauges.

Plasti-Gauge might work on a  lever gun but anything that slides on the cartridge head would smear it.  Be like turning the crank after tightening the bearing cap. The tape works good on bolt and lever guns but a feeler gauge is more accurate if it can be used. I don't have any "no-go" gauges in the shop, just go gauges. If I can close an action with one layer of tape on a go gauge I start over.

[Delmonico]

Plasti-Gauge might work on a  lever gun but anything that slides on the cartridge head would smear it.  Be like turning the crank after tightening the bearing cap. The tape works good on bolt and lever guns but a feeler gauge is more accurate if it can be used. I don't have any "no-go" gauges in the shop, just go gauges. If I can close an action with one layer of tape on a go gauge I start over.

I was thinking guns like bolts, levers and pumps for the plastigauge. 

[John Taylor]

won't work with a bolt action.

[Delmonico]

won't work with a bolt action.

Forgot the bolt turning.  Maybe plastigauge was a dumb idea.  Better we stick with the feller gauge and the masking tape.

We'll just save that so we know how many shims to take out to the rod cap on old Chevies.

[Kinda Sudden]

"In any case if there looks like there is some sort of problem, the next step would be a smith with the proper Go/No Go gauges"

Now theres an idea! .

[John Taylor]

Forgot the bolt turning.  Maybe plastigauge was a dumb idea.  Better we stick with the feller gauge and the masking tape.

We'll just save that so we know how many shims to take out to the rod cap on old Chevies.

When you run out of shims it's time to get the file out and take some off the bearing cap.
On checking head space, more than a few gun smiths use the masking tape idea, me included.

[Delmonico]

Forgot the bolt turning.  Maybe plastigauge was a dumb idea.  Better we stick with the feller gauge and the masking tape.

We'll just save that so we know how many shims to take out to the rod cap on old Chevies.

When you run out of shims it's time to get the file out and take some off the bearing cap.

I was always told that was the time to have them rebabbited.


Oh and thanks for the info, good to here it from one in the bizzness.