IN need of advive PLEASE

[Ace Lungger]

  I am going to make atempt and making a double shoulder holster like the one Irish Dave made. The question are this, I know you make a small slice to slide you spring threw to the back side, with the holes already drill in the spring steel and you rivit it in place,  and since I haven't seen one up close, i assume that is the way it is done. Now here comes the kicker, I know you wrap the spring steel sewing it around the edge, but how do you keep those rivits from rubbing on the cylinder. I asume you could use double leather and then the outside leather would cover the rivets!
I have this real nice piece of 11oz Veg tanned Burgandy leather that i wanted to use, but I would hate to use another (any type of 11oz as a backer! so tell me, how do i get around this problem, due I cut a rossetten and glue over the area where the rivets are and then stich it on to. I sure could use some advice, I am going to attach a pic of Daves holster!

I will be deeply great full for any help on this?
Be safe and injoy the holiday weekend!
ACE

[outrider]

Ace,

From what I can see in this photo the rivot appears to be placed where it would not interfere with the cylinder.  Now if there are two rivots I can see where the second one might touch the cylinder.  Why not ask Irish Dave how he did that.  I see three different rigs like this on page 157 of PI.  Two of them do not show any rivots so I am assuming that the spring is slid in between two pieces of leather through a slot.  The steel would be rivoted to the rear peice of leather but not the front one.

[Ace Lungger]

Outrder thats what I though, but i, realy didn't want to use my 11oz Burgandy and then  a7-9oz behind, it would get pretty heavy and thick? I will try and get a hold of dick and see, what he can tell me. Maybe someone else can jump in and give some clues, I realy did like those saddle bag holster combo AWESOME Job
ACE

[Marshal Will Wingam]

You could use two rivets if you are careful where the second one goes. It could be just to the trigger side of the cylinder and be most effective. I suppose it could also be on the other side, closer to the top strap and still be out of the way but you'd need to be very accurate in your placement. I'd opt for putting it on the trigger side.

[Don101]

its easy, you rivit the spring when you have covered it to the back backing and  you make a slot in the top backing and feed the spring through then stitch the two pieces together that way no metal is toutching the gun, Don

[Ace Lungger]

  Thanks Don, so you did use to pieces of leather, what weight of leather did you use?
I might have to skip using the Burgandy then, and do a Pecan color on both pieces.
Thanks ACE

[Don101]

Ace the pics are off an original Al Furstnow, i have made these using 8 oz leather, Don

[Ace Lungger]

Thanks Don!
I thank you for the advice

ACE

[Irish Dave]

Ace:

Sorry for the tardiness....just been real busy the last couple of days.

In my research of old holsters, this type was generally made in one of two ways:

1) Use 2 pieces of fairly thick (7-10 oz)  leather for the backing. Rivet the leather-covered spring to the back piece and slide the spring through a slit in the front piece. Then stitch the two backing pieces together; or

2) Cover the spring with leather as normal, rivet the spring to a single HEAVY (10-14 oz) piece of backing leather. If the rivets are properly set - recessed slightly below the surface -- they will not in my experience contact or mar the cylinder.

Original examples of both methods can be found.

Hope this helps.

[Ace Lungger]

 :)Thanks Dave,
With Don's and your help, I will getit figured out!
Thanks
ACE