Converting modern sport coat to a 1870 sack coat

[Roosterman]

 I've searched this board for hours on end and found no specific instructions on how to do this. Can anybody help me out here?
I'm thinking of putting four buttons on the front and re pressing the lapels for the four button change. Should I probably sew the rear vent closed too? How many cuff buttons? Or should there be any?
Thanks Pards!

[St. George]

I can help...

Go to the 'NCOWS' forum's back pages, and you'll find a couple of very detailed posts about converting a modern wool sportcoat into a period-correct sack coat.

It was also reprinted in the 'NCOWS' magazine  - 'The Shootist' - and if you contact the Editor - 'The Lone Gunman' @www.ncows.org, or PM him here on CAS City - ask about that issue, as it's well worth it.

If I can be of further assistance, send me a PM.

Creating period-correct outfits from modern-made articles of clothing can save a significant amount of money, and you can create an Impression fairly easily after perusing available resource material and some 'treasure hunting' at your local Thrift Stores.

Just remember that the fabrics of the era were Wool and Cotton and Silk- so be sure to read your labels.

Good Luck!

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Roosterman]

Go to the 'NCOWS' forum's back pages, and you'll find a couple of very detailed posts about converting a modern wool sportcoat into a period-correct sack coat.

I've been looking for these mysterious "back pages" for more than two days with no success and alot of frustration. Can you post a link for me? I simply can't find the information.

[St. George]

Send a note to 'The Lone Gunman' and send me your address via PM, and I'll dig out the article and xerox it over the weekend.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Roosterman]

That would be great! I just went through all 38 "back pages of the NCOWS section and found no instructions for conversion. Your offer to xerox is mucho appreciated!

[Frenchie]

Just remember that the fabrics of the era were Wool and Cotton and Silk- so be sure to read your labels.

And linen and linsey-woolsey (linen/wool blend) and leather and, of course, leopard skin 

Capt. Samuel J. Richardson, CSA Cavalry, Texas 1861

[Texas Lawdog]

It takes a certain kind of guy to pull off that leopard skin breeches look.

[Roosterman]

It takes a certain kind of guy to pull off that leopard skin breeches look.

Especially with matching leopard skin holsters....

[Montana Slim]

Coincidently, my wife is in converting two nearly new sport coats donated to me recently (I was summoned for a test fitting minutes ago )

I don't recall seeing prior NCOWS articles, though I've heard about them.

Here's a brief lowdown on what's happening:
Starting point: The coats came with two buttons and a slit up the backside.
1) I opened the pockets (yes, they were still sewed up )
2) I used a seam ripper to open up the lining at the rear slit.

The seamstress has or is currently performing the following:
3) Sewed up the slit
4) Bought 4 new matching buttons.
5) Add one button/hole at the top (for those cool/breezy mornings)
6) Add one button/hole approximately even with the breast pocket.
7) replaced the two former buttons with the new ones.
Re-crease / press the lapel to match the new configuration.

9) I tucked-in the pocket flaps for a better "look".

I'll keep an eye out for more/better ideas.

Regards,
Slim

[Books OToole]

Coincidently, my wife is in converting two nearly new sport coats donated to me recently (I was summoned for a test fitting minutes ago )

I don't recall seeing prior NCOWS articles, though I've heard about them.

Here's a brief lowdown on what's happening:
Starting point: The coats came with two buttons and a slit up the backside.
1) I opened the pockets (yes, they were still sewed up )
2) I used a seam ripper to open up the lining at the rear slit.

The seamstress has or is currently performing the following:
3) Sewed up the slit
4) Bought 4 new matching buttons.
5) Add one button/hole at the top (for those cool/breezy mornings)
6) Add one button/hole approximately even with the breast pocket.
7) replaced the two former buttons with the new ones.
Re-crease / press the lapel to match the new configuration.

9) I tucked-in the pocket flaps for a better "look".

I'll keep an eye out for more/better ideas.

Regards,
Slim

You might also take out the shoulder pads if there are any.

Books

[Bow View Haymaker]

This is getting interesting.
How about some before after Pics or at least after?

I have a coat from the Salv. army store that I think is from a tuxedo cause it only has one buton at the front and the button is covered with balck fabric the same as the coat.  and the pocets were still sewn shut as well.   I bought it for a dress coat cause I wear one so seldom but I think converted it could do double duty at funerals, weddings and such. 
Now I just have to get in the mother-in-laws good graces and see if she wants to tackle the job. 
Anyone know how hard it is to redo the lapel creas?

[ColonelFlashman]

Modern shoulder pads that completely incompass the shoulder from front to back are totally incorrect, as period ones were made out of Horse Hair & Only placed on the Front part of the shoulder of the garment.
Buttons that are either Clothe Covered or a Ball or of a 3/4 Round configuation were the Only style that were used for outer garment for mens clothes, as Bakelite buttons were used only on Trowsers for closures & as buttons for Braces & what we know today as Hard Plastic Buttons should be Avoided like the Plague.

[Grenadier]

Anyway to get a copy of this set of instructions these days?

[St. George]

As mentioned above - look at the 'back pages' of the 'NCOWS Forum', or contact them directly.

It wasn't my article - and I don't remember who put it all together, but it 'was' interesting, and a money-saver.

All of my copies of 'The Shootist' were given away at gun shows - to promote membershiip in NCOWS.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Old Top]

I beleive that it was Joss House who posted how to convert to a sack coat, you may wish to check his posts.

Old Top

[Books OToole]

I beleive that it was Joss House who posted how to convert to a sack coat, you may wish to check his posts.

Old Top

I have done about 5 conversions.  Basically you:

Sew up the back vent.
Remove any shoulder pads.
Change the buttons and add one or two button holes.
(This will change the way the coat hangs and will require some serious ironing.)

Books

[wyldwylliam]

This is a great thread and much appreciated. Have long been impressed with how little the sack coat/sports coat has changed over the years. Off to the thrift store I go!

[Grenadier]

I am currently in the middle of my conversion. I will post some photos once I am done with the project. 

[ColonelFlashman]

The shoulder pads & adding the two other buttons w/ buttonholes are the most serious issues, as it changes the way the coat fits.
The shoulder pads really weren't, as they were actually more of a chest pad, because they were laid in from the seam at the top of the shoulder, where they were thicker, and didn't extent out into the sleeve one whit, to past the pectoral muscle, where they thinned out.

Now as for the adding of buttons & buttonholes. Depending on the Era of the coat your using for a base, it'll either easier, thin lapels or more difficult, wider lapels. As it'll effect the lay of the collar & how much trimming you'll have to do or not on the lapels.
Putting in the buttonholes isn't really that big of a deal. You just have to make sure that you've a consistent measurement that matches the original ones already there.

[Slim-Jim Davis]

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