Faster Wedge Removal on 1860 Conversion

[Black Powder]

Contemplating getting a conversion cylinder for my Pietta .44 1860 Army.

In its current c&b mode, the only time I knock out the wedge is for thorough cleaning after shooting.  I don't have a wdege puller like Taylor's offers.  Since knocking out the wedge would be required to be done more often for shooting cartridges (not going to use a loading gate), is this tool a fast way of getting the wedge out or is there still a way to loosen up the wedge fit?

Thanks.

BP

[Black Powder]

Thanks, Seth.  i just edited my post after finding the wedge puller tool at Taylor's.  It looks like it'd fit in a vest pocket.

BP

[Andrew Quigley]

Have several Colt c&b pistols and have worked on the wedges to make the easier to remove and still stay in place. Little ssanding and grinding and your good to go. Just do a little at a time. Go to far and just call VTI and order a new one.
 I have a piece of deer antler to tap on the side of the wedge and it comes right out.

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[Sgt. Jake]

   What Andrew Quigly said ,when properly fit for finger removal,it makes loading and unloading of the cylinder on mine pleasnt instead of a chore.          Adios  Sgt. Jake

[Black Powder]

Excellent.  Think I'll fiddle around with it, a little at a time!

Converting the 60 Army is definitely a valid alternative to buying a second cartridge revolver for the time being.

Thanks for the advice.

BP

[Ransom Gaer]

The wedges on both of my 1860 Armies come out with a push of my thumb, yet they stay in all the time I am shooting.  Both of my Armies are Ubertis and the wedge springs both have really good hooks on the end which helps retain them in place.  That is something to look at on your Armies.

Ransom Gaer

[Black Powder]

Emboldened by all y'all's advice, I had at that wedge.  Mission accomplished, pretty much.  Darn wedge spring was ridiculously stiff, still is, but not as much.  The wedge itself was binding up all over and after some filing & grinding, that problem's gone.

Problem is still with that wedge spring.  It's still too stiff to easily push my thumbnail onto without getting chewed up, but when it releases, then the wedge easily pulls right out.  I may have to resort to the antler, or shirt button, thimble, or something.

So now, the idea of a conversion cylinder without a loading gate sounds very practical.  Hmmm....

Thanks again.

BTW, what's the purpose of the wedge screw?  I don't think I've ever touched it.

BP

[River City John]

Keeper so that the wedge doesn't fall out. Not always reliable.

[Deadeye Don]

The fact that you can get the wedge pin out without touching the screw is a strong indication that it doesnt do much. 

[Black Powder]

The fact that you can get the wedge pin out without touching the screw is a strong indication that it doesnt do much. 

Exactly why I couldn't figure out what the heck it was for!

I subsequently read from a thread here I'd not found earlier that the consensus is that Uberti wedge springs are better.  Unless somebody tells me they're not interchangeable with my Pietta, I think I'll just buy one and check it out.

BP

[Deadeye Don]

On the other hand, if you take it out you will have a strange hole in the side of your barrel to explain.   

[Black Powder]

On the other hand, if you take it out you will have a strange hole in the side of your barrel to explain.   

Is duct tape period correct? 

[Andrew Quigley]

The Uberti wedge has a small space so the screw actually holds the wedge in place. The screw has a flat side on the head instead of being totally round. By turning the flat spot down you can remove the wedge without pulling the screw all the way out.
 I did have the wedge come out on my snubnose 1860 Army while shooting a side match at Byhalia a couple years back. Was on the last shot. The barrel moved forward on the cylinder pin but didn't come off. had a little trouble getting it off but with a little file work and a new wedge I was back in business.

[Deadeye Don]

I have found that some of the wedge screws come with the flat side and some are just round. The flat sided ones seem to work better at holding the wedge in place for some reason.

[River City John]

Is duct tape period correct? 

Rawhide,- often the 'ductape' of our era. . .

The wedge screw on my '72 Open Top has the flat for easy removal yet the screw on my Leech & Rigdon has a fuly round head. Both do keep the wedge from falling out(unless flat aligned of course). Both revolvers are Uberti.

[Black Powder]

Been working up a thumb callous and am sure this is going to speed up reloading considerably, without having to carve out my frame to accomodate a loading lever.

Thanks again.

BP