Benefits of a '75 Remington over....

[HorsePen Henry]

At the risk of getting whacked behind the ear with a pistol barrel....what are the benefits of a '75 Remington over a '73 Colt? Better shooters, easier ta clean,......what? Or is it just a visual aesthetic choice of the Remington over the Colt? 

Betchya nobody asked this 'un before.

X Horse Pen

[sundance44`s]

Only one thing I can think of ..the 1875 Remington fits big paws better than the 1873 Colt ...

[Bangor Dan]

The grips on a SAA and the '75 Remington certainly feel different, but that just amounts to a personal preference. To me, the '75 has a bit more heft. They both function in essentially the same manner. What I'm getting at is that I don't see either one having a specific advantage over the other, it's all about personal taste. For me, they both are very appealing, that's why I own (several) of each, and enjoy them. 

Bangor Dan

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

                            C                      Ditto what Bangor Dan said 


                                                                         tEN wOLVES 

[Old Top]

Horse Pen,

I find the grip to be better for me with the Remingtons, the Colt and Colt Clones just do not feel right in my hand.  I also find the the unloading goes easier as I am not reaching around the gun to use the ejector, it is on the same side as the loading gate.

Old Top

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Howdy Old Top


               Your right about the unloading , the Colt SAA was actually made for the left hander by mistake, but it was too late for Sam Colt to relize this to make the change of the loading gate to the left side for the right hander, the left hander never has to switch hands to load or unload , and the ejector works fine for him too, Elmer Kieth always wanted this changed, and they did make a proto type, but it was really too late , and the gun really never went anywhere, Me being left handed I find both guns to feel different , but I like the way they both feel, that sounds a little funny but thats the way it is for me , as you know I just resently bought my first Remington 1875 , and I can see I'll probably be getting more in the future .



                                                                  tEN wOLVES 

[Books OToole]

I shoot my '75 Remington better than my SAA Colt. [clones]  I don't know why; I just do.

Books

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy!

I have both.  The 1873 Colt feels slightly  better in my med sized hands than my 1875.

My Remington 1875 is MORE accurate - to me; and others have remarked on the accuracy of theirs, as well.

1875 Remingtons ARE heavier (slightly) and feel it, ie: more solid or more heft.



C&B guns:  My 1860 Army Colt and 1851 Colt (Uberti replicas) feel better in my hand than my Remington NMA (by Pietta) - but my NMA feels better than my Colt (tm) Dragoon. 
                                                                                   

As far as accuracy, ALL my C&Bs are about equal, but with perhaps a slight edge to my Remington.

[Pettifogger]

What's the benefit of a Ford over a Chevy?  None.  Personal preference.

[HorsePen Henry]

Thanks neighbors. So...who is making the best "75 Remington on the market nowadays? Historic accuracy in design is important to me as well as shooting great.
I'm leaning towards 44-40. Did Remington make 'em in 44-40?

X Horse Pen

[Tubac]

Howdy,
The original '75's were chambered for .44 Remington, .44-40 and .45 Colt.

Tubac

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Thanks neighbors. So...who is making the best "75 Remington on the market nowadays? Historic accuracy in design is important to me as well as shooting great.
I'm leaning towards 44-40. Did Remington make 'em in 44-40?

X Horse Pen

Howdy again, Henry.

They ALL are made by Uberti.  The various importers sometimes claim that THEIR version is more accurate.  I'd actually call EMF, Cimmerron, Navy Arms, etc. and see if they're markings are different.  (I think Cimmerron says their guns have the most authentic markings.)  My 1875 is from EMF and DOESN'T have authentic markings.  Or trigger guard, color case, or cylinder pin retaining system.    But it's also around $500.


Now, if you're willing to wait for a year or so (announced availability is June/July 2008 - which is why I said a YEAR or so: probably more) AND you're willing to fork over the biggest chunk of 2 grand, USFA will be making BOTH an 1875 (around $1900) and a NMA (around $1500) and they will be pretty much EXACT replicas, including VERY close markings.  Also, there are a few Hartford Armory 1875s - and possibly 1890s - around, but they are few and far between, and the last one I saw was advertised for $2500 in "like new" condition, including wooden case.   Hartford Armory made an exact, magnum-strength version a few years ago.  The ones I saw advertised were great, but soon got a reputation for spotty issues.  Add that to the war/conflict in Iraq and the company - which does a LOT of business with and makes precision stuff for Uncle Sam's military - just sort of faded away.  Here's their website, but I doubt you'll be able to get the guns and I don't think Taylors (the authorized distributor) can get any. http://www.hartfordarmory.com/remmies.htm  (A real shame - the guns - at least the good ones - were absolutely gorgeous and were as exact looking as possible, but with technology only available in the 21st Century!!!  And proofed for 44 Magnum loads, no less!

Have fun!

[Deadeye Don]

Taylors took the Hartford Remys off their website some time ago.  I think they finally realized the calls they were getting about them did not match the reality of the situation (i.e. they arent being made and may never be made again).  As far as I know,  EMF is really the only distributor carrying the 1875 from Uberti. The good news is that the one from EMF is a fine gun although you will likely have to change out that mongo main spring for a lighter one.  I did just that and now I can shoot it one handed.  The prices Jeff quoted you on the USFAs  are MSRP  prices.  I know for a fact you can get them cheaper by at least 2 to 3 hundered.  Regards.  Deadeye.

[HorsePen Henry]

Well gentlemen, you've certainly given me plenty to chew on. I appreciate all the good ideas and information. I have been following the thread on the american made USFA Remington that 's coming. I think I would have to be a senator and vote myself a raise to get a brace a them. Although I'm sure they'll be mighty fine guns. I have also been lookin' around on the EMF site and the Cimmaron site some. They are handsome pistols and EMF had one that was laser engraved that looked real purty in the pictures.

Instead of replacing a stiff spring in these Remingtons, have any of ya had any luck honing the thickness back on the spring to make it a tad weaker? Will that work? I have had to do that with flinlock mainsprings and feather springs. Just wonderin' out loud.

X Horse Pen

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Howdy Gents

           Hello HorsePen Henry

            You might want to talk to Marshal Will Wingam, he's the Moderater for the Leather Shop, he has spoke of filling or honing the main spring down on both sides to reduce the strength in the hammer spring of 58 and the 75 , he says he then polishes the sides real well, so the spring won't break at a weak spot or rough spot on the side of the spring, he does this in stages so as to not take too much off , and make the spring too weak, I'm sure Marshal Will will chime in here on this with more to say about thining the hammer spring down. hope this was of some help to you.



                                                                      tEN wOLVES 

[Mulee Pete]

On all of my main springs  colt clones and remmy's, I have used a dremel with the micarta wheel and cut the middle section out, sort of a Wolff Spring do it yourself.  Have used them for quite a while with no problems.  Start at the curve and cut a bit at a time  up and down, and test until you have the feel you want. 

[Flint]

When you thin a mainspring, remove metal from the sides, not the thickness, it's easier to control.  The strength reduced by the width is directly proportional.  The strength if cut by the thickness changes by the square of the thickness, so it is harder to get it right.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I usually lighten my springs by quite a bit. Careful you don't take too much off. Like 10W said, don't be in a hurry to get it the first try. Also be careful not to heat the spring and ruin the temper. If it starts to get too warm to hold comfortably, cool it with water before proceeding. Make sure the last thing you do is to polish the sides longitudinally so there isn't any scratches on it for a crack to start. I like to get it light enough with almost no screw tension then tighten the screw until it works great with a crisp break. When I get it to that point, I remove the tension screw and shorten it just enough that it doesn't protrude from the grip frame and put it back. Here's a picture of one of my springs. I understand that VTI offers lighter springs but I haven't had much luck with them in my '58's. I haven't tried them in a '75.

Oh, yeah. There isn't a "better" pistol when choosing a 75 Remmie vs a '73 Colt. Like the pards here have said, it's all a matter of preference. I like the feel of the Remington but only because it fits my hand better. I wish the ejector on the Remington was like the Colt. Although I'm right-handed, I like to work the ejector with my left middle finger and it's a bit of a reach around the web on a Remington. That's OK, though. You usually don't have to unload on the clock.

[Montana Slim]

Well, the '75 has a "heft" to it that is wonderful for givin'n headaches and such when appropriate. 

Slim

[Bristow Kid]

Howdy again, Henry.

They ALL are made by Uberti.    My 1875 is from EMF and DOESN'T have authentic markings.  Or trigger guard, color case, or cylinder pin retaining system.    But it's also around $500.

Do you have EMF's web address??