Fish slicker restoration......

[Uncle Stinky]

I have one of the pre-Chinese "CNL-Tower Brand" fish slicker repro's that was made in Hulett, Wyoming. It has no cuts or tears but some of the orange/yellow waterproofing is wearing off in some places and in other places it is plumb gone.
Does anyone have the "magic formula" for re-coating these slickers to bring them back to their original condition? I have heard from various sources that linseed oil is used and I've even heard about bees wax being used on the seams.
Thanks in advance..........

Uncle Stinky

[River City John]

Stinky,
most easily used is "Armour-All". Spread the coat out and carefully spritz entire surface. Follow instructions on bottle.

If the underlying bare fabric weave is showing through, you may have to use another solution that fills in the threads first.
At one time someone had a wax/linseed oil/mineral spirit formula for rejuvenating slickers, but I know "Armour-All" works and is easier to use.

RCJ

[Harve Curry]

Uncle Stinky,
The CNL copy of the TOWER brand fish skin has a latex coating on it. It's probably better then the original linseed oil beeswax combinations. See if you can find Connie Lindimier, CNL Clothiers of South Pass City Wyoming. She was the original source for your slicker. Connie might be able to help you.
I have a antique original Tower fishskin some inbred cut to make a pattern of.  If I knew where he was buried I'd....

[James Hunt]

I discovered CNL clothiers about 10 years ago after taking my mule deer on the first day in WY and with time to spare drove thru south pass for the heck of it. Bought my fish slicker there and it has held up extremely well.

I have used armour all both it and my daughters who has the current (for about 1/3 the price) slicker. It seems to work well on both. Still looking for a period reference for the use of armour all and am awaiting such discovery from RCJ

Good luck Uncle Stinky

[Harve Curry]

I will try the ArmorAll on my CNL slicker because it sticks to itself on hot days when rolled up behind the saddle. Sounds like that would help.

[St. George]

You might want to try dusting it with Cornstarch - it acts as a dry lubricant, and won't attract the dirt that ArmorAll will, and won't stain, as well.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[River City John]

Water Proof Solution, or Paint, for Awnings, etc (page 576) *
Ingredients
1 oz Rosin
1 oz Bee Wax
1 pint Linseed Oil (boiled)
(3 oz Bone Black to make it a black paint)
Directions to mix
(Add all ingredients together, may need to use a bit of turpentine and heat to dissolve the rosin and bee wax before adding to the oil)
Application - Apply one to three coats as you desire

Chinese Method of Rendering Cloth Waterproof **
Ingredients
1 oz White Wax (Paraffin)
1 quart Spirits of Turpentine
Directions to mix - Allow all the wax to dissolve in the turpentine
Application - Dip the cloth and hang to dry



The above two period recipes courtesy of 'Monterrey Jack' Brass on an NCOWS Forum thread a year or so ago.
I could see why 'fire hazard' and 'tent cities' went hand in hand.

[Harve Curry]

I believe the originals had orange shellac in the recipe. That's what gave them the school bus yellow color.

Thanks for those recipes River City John. I'll use them to fix my tents.
regards,
Bill

[Uncle Stinky]

Uncle Stinky,
The CNL copy of the TOWER brand fish skin has a latex coating on it. It's probably better then the original linseed oil beeswax combinations. See if you can find Connie Lindimier, CNL Clothiers of South Pass City Wyoming. She was the original source for your slicker. Connie might be able to help you.
I have a antique original Tower fishskin some inbred cut to make a pattern of.  If I knew where he was buried I'd....

My Tower Brand slicker sticks to itself like mad.......just like the old oiled slickers did. Are you sure it is a latex coating on that thing? I've never seen latex stick to itself like my slicker does. I know the original linseed oiled slickers would stick to itself. I don't want to mess it up.

[River City John]

Once you've lost significant patches of the yellow coating, you can re seal it using the previously posted suggested recipe. Never restored one myself.
I feel that if it's had as much wear as you've indicated in your email, and there are losses, that there is no way to match the shade of yellow through restoration.

Although it's been a good companion on the trail, even cowboys of the day replaced garments with new ones when they got trail-weary.

The cost to professionally restore a CNL slicker to museum standards may well be prohibitive. Bite the bullet and purchase a new one that doesn't stick together, performs the exact same function, and looks the same. I got mine from The Fort in Lincoln, NE.

http://www.fortwestern.com/old-west-mens-apparel/index2.html?sort_direction=1

$59.98 is a reasonable price.


RCJ