Who has the Uberti NMA "conversion" gun from Taylor's

[Stophel]

Who here has one of the new Uberti NMA "conversion" guns from Taylor's?  It looks like the cheapest way to go to have a cartridge firing NMA, plus, I REALLY prefer the loading gate.  For MSRP of $465 (I will bet it can actually be had for close to $400), it sure beats paying $280 for an Uberti percussion pistol and then another $280+ for a Kirst cylinder, even though I will have to have a dealer get it for me.

It LOOKS like exactly what I want in a SA gun.  I have read one review in "Guns of the Old West" magazine, which frankly, was NOT very helpful.  Most of the article dealt with R&D cylinders, which have NOTHING whatsoever to do with the gun they were supposed to be reviewing....

Is it a good deal?  Any of you all have some good photos of yours?

By the way, I have a photo in a book of an old conversion that is done essentially the same as this one.  Loading gate and all.  Pretty sweet.  I'll go scan it and put it up after while...

[Stophel]

OK  A quick look at a few old Remington conversions.

Note the neatly engraved gun.  That's the one I like.  With the loading gate and thick backplate. 



Along with a couple of Remingtons with the more normal conversions (the top one is missing its inset plate, and it is made without a loading notch, so the cylinder would have to be removed to load and unload), and a Double Action and also a pocket Remington with the "R&D style" backing plate setups with the multiple firing pins.  This seems to have been a very common setup for the pocket guns, but I don't think I have seen this arrangement with the full size gun yet.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I also like the thick plate conversions. I can see that one or two will be in my future one of these days.

[Deadlight Lou]

I have a Uberti 1858 NMA conversion for .38 SP from Taylor's. I will pick up my second one on Monday!

Mine shoots far better than I can. And I like that it doesn't look just like everyone else's later era cartridge pistols.

As I had brought up in a previous thread, loading can be interesting. With the thick backplate it is impossible to tell where an empty chamber is. My only solution so far is to pay careful attesion while loading and to be consistant (is my pard Athena Jake reading this?). Also, I was a bit thrown by the 'second' half-cock position as it does not allow the cylinder to spin freely. The first few times loading in a hurry I would over-cock past the 'first' half-cock to the 'second' and would get confused when the cylinder didn't budge. I wouldn't consider these flaws of the gun, only of the inexperience of the gunman.

Another thing that has been noted in other reviews is that the ejector rod is kept under the loading lever, and is also not spring loaded. Since I've never owned anything else, this doesn't bother me. It falls in line with just knowing my gun well (quit giggling, Athena Jake!).

You can read a more thorough review thread here:
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,15930.0.html

I will mention that Taylor's just got a new shipment in this last week of the .38 SP with 7 3/8" barrel like my first one. I've had to wait about 3 months for them to come in. I would expect that the supply will sell quickly. I would suggest calling Taylor's to see of they have the specific gun you would be looking for. The ladies I've spoken to there are very knowledgable and accomodating.

Do you have specific questions? I will try to answer them to the best of my knowledge.

Deadlight Lou
143rd fastest gun East of Mrs. Hip.

[Deadlight Lou]

Oh, and since you asked about value...

The one lady at Taylor's told my I should have my local gun shop person order it because it would be less expensive. I could have ordered it directly through Taylor's at their price and paid for gun shop's transfer fees, etc. However, with the gun shop ordering it mine came in about $60 less. The one I'm picking up on Monday will be about $485 with tax and no additional transfer fee.

Unfortunately I'm not rigged for easy photos or I'd let you see some.

And since I haven't said it in as many words, I'm extremely pleased with my 58 Remmy conversion!

Deadlight Lou
143rd fastest gun East of Mrs. Hip.

[Stophel]

What's with the "second half cock"?

I'm having a hard time deciding which gun I would rather have (or maybe I should say, which one I would rather have FIRST....), this one, or an 1875.... 

Caliber is going to be either .45 colt or .44-40.  I also would prefer to shoot mostly black powder.  I got quite a bit here that I would like to shoot up!

I'm buying a gun when I get my tax refund check! 

[Fox Creek Kid]

Notice in the photo that all original FACTORY .44 Remington conversions were the "thin plate" type and did not have the gate. Only the factory .36's converted to .38 had the gate. 

[Deadlight Lou]

It's my understanding the 'second' half-cock is a safty position. I never (purposely) use it. In practice I only use the 'first' half-cock for loading and the full cock for firing, and just skip the 'second.'

You might consider asking Taylor's about the back plate on the larger calibers. Since I only have the .38 SP I can only tell you it has the thick back plate.

Yeah, my pard Athean Jake keeps suggesting I get a short barrel one as a cross draw, but for now I'm sticking with the pair of long barrels on my hips.

Good luck with whatever you settle on!

Deadlight Lou
143rd fastest gun East of Mrs. Hip.

[Ben McCulloch]

I have a pair of them. I've had them since last July. They are my main match pistols and I love them. They were dead accurate right out of the box. I have the 38 special in 7 3/8. I'm probably going to get one 5 1/2 inch as a backup that I can wear crossdraw. They were a little stiff but you can adjust the hammer spring. I would recommend them to anyone.

[Oldelm]

Ben,....those are nice!

Thanks for showing 'em. 



Can anybody explain more about the halfcock?  Does the hammer have two halfcock notches?

How does this second halfcock position lock the cylinder?

I'm puzzled 

[Stophel]

I think I have decided that this is what I want to get when my tax refund check comes in (maybe sooner).

I don't know if I'll go with .45 or .44-40.  I'd kinda like something other than .45 Colt...just because...  Since I figger I'll be pretty much doing my own loads with black gunpowder, I suppose that availability of factory loads dosn't matter too much...

I like that this is a "Historically possible" conversion, if not totally "historically accurate" (which NONE of the current conversions are, unless you get a thin plate factory type conversion from Armsport).  I like the loading gate, and it's an attractive enough looking unit.  With the "wings" on the backplate, it appears to be pretty solidly fitted to the frame.

I'll get the full 8" gun, and might possibly cut it down, we'll see.  My 8" percussion gun is not exactly "fast"....it's like slinging around a two foot long, three pound metal rod....  I'm used to a 4" .38 Masterpiece, which is considerably quicker on target!  I guess you get used to it, though.

[Deadeye Don]

Notice in the photo that all original FACTORY .44 Remington conversions were the "thin plate" type and did not have the gate. Only the factory .36's converted to .38 had the gate. 

So the Remington with loading gate offered by Taylors is NOT historically correct then?  Most were made like the RandD conversion cylinder?  Enlighten me please. 

[Fox Creek Kid]

All factory Remington .44 conversion were of the "thin plate" type. In other words, no it is not correct.

[Deadlight Lou]

Can anybody explain more about the halfcock?  Does the hammer have two halfcock notches?

How does this second halfcock position lock the cylinder?

I'm puzzled 

I'm a firm believe in 'when all else fails, read the flippin' manual.' So I carefully read through the Uberti manual that came with the new Remmy I picked up today. No luck. It doesn't say cowpie about the 'second' half-cock position or what it is for. Of course the manual appears to be written for at least five different pistols, four of which are open-top Colts. Even the exploded parts diagram isn't for the Remmy.

Sorry, I can't give you any more information than what's already be written here.

Deadlight Lou
143rd fastest gun East of Mrs. Hip.

[Oldelm]

Deadlight,...thanks for taking a look through the manual.

I've been waiting for Uberti to release the .44-40 version of these to Taylors , so I may have to wait awhile till I have one in my hands I can take apart and have a look-see how that secondary half cock really works. 

[Abilene]

Reading this topic got me to wondering aboiut the Remmie conversion "safety" issue, so I looked at one this week.  The so-called "second half-cock" is actually the sound of the bolt rising and striking the cylinder.  But the hammer hasn't pulled back far enough to be at full cock, so if you stop pulling the hammer when you hear that click, then if falls back to half-cock.  However, the bolt has already risen into the bolt notch so the cylinder won't turn.  And you can't pull the trigger because it is in the half-cock notch.  The only thing you can do is pull the hammer back to full cock (or back far enough for the trigger to clear the half-cock notch then the hammer could be lowered).  Leastways, seems to me that's what is happening.  Then I checked a '58 cap'n'ball gun.  Same thing.

What serves as the Federal requirement for a safety on an imported pistol on these conversions is a device that is very similar to the "safety" on the '72 Opentops and the Richards-Mason conversions.  That is, a small screw on the side of the hammer that when turned rotates outward a small block below the firing pin.  This block will strike the frame when the hammer is down and prevent the firing pin from protruding through the frame.

[Oldelm]

Reading this topic got me to wondering aboiut the Remmie conversion "safety" issue, so I looked at one this week.  The so-called "second half-cock" is actually the sound of the bolt rising and striking the cylinder.  But the hammer hasn't pulled back far enough to be at full cock, so if you stop pulling the hammer when you hear that click, then if falls back to half-cock.  However, the bolt has already risen into the bolt notch so the cylinder won't turn.  And you can't pull the trigger because it is in the half-cock notch.  The only thing you can do is pull the hammer back to full cock (or back far enough for the trigger to clear the half-cock notch then the hammer could be lowered).  Leastways, seems to me that's what is happening.  Then I checked a '58 cap'n'ball gun.  Same thing.

Good observation there, Abilene. 

Thanks for checking that out.

[Barrelhouse Bob]

I cannot speak about the Taylors 1858 conversion, but I own a pair of Cimarron 1858 conversions in 45 Colt. After some tinkering they are good shooters.

When I took posession from my dealer they were rough as a cob. The hand needed poslishing on both guns, the bolt on one was so rough that it would rise late, letting the cylinder over rotate.

The hand spring broke on one after 20 rounds.

After some polishing, a new bolt,  and a new hand spring, they are sweet shooters. My previous experience with Uberti revolvers was all excellent. I don't know whqt happened to quality control on these two.

[Deadeye Don]

I cannot speak about the Taylors 1858 conversion, but I own a pair of Cimarron 1858 conversions in 45 Colt. After some tinkering they are good shooters.

When I took posession from my dealer they were rough as a cob. The hand needed poslishing on both guns, the bolt on one was so rough that it would rise late, letting the cylinder over rotate.

The hand spring broke on one after 20 rounds.

After some polishing, a new bolt,  and a new hand spring, they are sweet shooters. My previous experience with Uberti revolvers was all excellent. I don't know whqt happened to quality control on these two.

Bob I am pretty sure we are talking about the same Uberti made gun.  Taylors and Cimarron both carry them now.   Interesting about the hand spring breaking so soon.  Did you call Cimarron about the problem or just fix it yourself? 

[Barrelhouse Bob]

I called Cimarron and they were out of hand springs. So I ordered several from VTI. I did not want to send the gun back because of the time it would take. Replacing the hand spring is a fairly easy job, and I enjoy tinkering with revolvers.