Refinishing Wood Grips and Stocks

Started by Virginia Gentleman, February 04, 2008, 11:19:12 AM

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Virginia Gentleman

I just wanted to pass along what I have been doing to achieve what looks like authentic finishes on many of the imported guns and older guns that have a really beat up finish. For the Italian clone revolvers grips, I strip off the heavy varnish or polyurethane finish with acetone in a jar.  It makes short work of the thick finish and leaves a very dry piece of wood to start to work on.  From what I understand, Colt used walnut that had a very simple boiled linseed oil finish with no pre-stain for the wood.  The Italian grips seem to be made of a nice European walnut that is almost the same color as the American Walnut used on the guns of yesteryear.  I don't use stain either, rather a product called Arrow Wood Finish that I apply the first coat with 400 grit sandpaper and let dry over night.  I then put on 2 coats with 600 grit sand paper and let dry overnight after each application.  After that I hand rub 4-6 thin coats on by hand until the right look is achieved.  I was very happy with the results of a natural oil finish that had a nice sheen to it without looking like someone sprayed it with plastic.  On the rifles with the need for a pre-stain, I use an appropriate alcohol based stain and then perform the steps outlined for the revolver grips.  Arrow Wood Finish can also be used with out stripping the orginal finish, but it requires many more "wet sanding in" coats of the product to incorporate the existing finish.  This works well, but will take several coats to achieve the desire results.  It is worth it if the gun is valuable and removing the existing finish will reduce its value.  If you get this product, heed the instructions warning of only using a small amount at a time as using too much can make drying time an exercise in patience.  Otherwise, this is the best restorative wood product I have ever used and it is used by antique dealers, violin and musical instrument makers/restorers and of course gunsmiths.  I'll try to post a picture or two.

Fox Creek Kid

V.G., reams of paper have been written concerning old time gunstock finishes as every company closely guarded their formulas to the point nothing was written down for fear of plagiarism. Most steeped alkanet root in linseed oil and added other little tricks. The alkanet gave the ruddish color to the varnish finishes on CIVILIAN Colts. Military Colts were oil finished. Many, myself included, have used Fiebing's Medium Brown Leather Dye diluted with alcohol to get the effect. However, a fine fellow on doubleguns.com shared some info last year whereas he used Behlen Blood Red Stain as it gave what appeared to be the perfect English "Best Gun" color and boy is he right.  ;) Try it and follow up with 3 - 4 coats of Truoil w/ #0000 steel wool between applications & I guarantee you a perfect replication of a 19th century Colt civilian finish.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter

How Do Gents :D

           I think V.G. and youself Kid , are sharing some very good recipe's for refinishing or just finishing wood grips or rifle stocks, their are so many ways to do this , with some being good and some not so good , if their is anyone looking to find these products I have two web sites you can go too, Birchwood Caseys True Oil can be found at just about any gun store.

For Arrow Wood Finish go to    www.rb-treasures.com/index.html

For Behlen Blood Red Stain go to    www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/behsol.htm


                                             Ten Wolves  ;) :D ;D
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

Virginia Gentleman

Thanks for the insight into the historical difference between the civilian and military wood grip finishes.  I may add some red stain to the setting in coat of the current European Walnut grips I am working on to make them look more like a civilian finish since the gun the grips will go on is a Cimarron Model P 4 3/4" barrel gun.  I don't want to overwhelm the walnut since it is so pretty with nice swirls and stripes that are so attractive.  Now that the Italian finish has been off them and I have started to refinish them, they look like an expensive custom pair of grips.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter

Howdy Virginia Gentleman

          You'll have to post some pictures when you get your grips done , some of the walnut that is coming out of Italy, is fiddle back walnut, beautiful wood , but you can't see this on a lot of their guns , because of all the red stain they use , once this is removed , at least on most guns , the wood is beautiful , with nice to very nice grain , and some fiddle back ,with the swirls, and almost tiger striped, useing the method you discribed will give you authentic period correct wood grips and rifle stocks. thanks for sharing this information. one thing I might mention is go easy on the sanding , you don't want to reduce the size of the wood , so that the wood too metal fit is bad, just watch all areas where metal touches wood.

                                                       Ten Wolves
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

Virginia Gentleman

Ten Wolves:  This is true and for the life of me I can not understand why the heck they cover it up with all that stain and heavy varnish or polyurethane?  The wood that is underneath it is a very high quality walnut and finishes up the right way, beautifully.  I will try to get some pictures posted when I am finished.  Last night I rubbed in another coat of Arrow Wood Finish and I was amazed at how nice the wood really looked in good light with the oil finish vs. the others that still have the factory finish on them-for now anyway. :)

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter

Back atya Virginia Gentleman

              I don't know either , it just might be the heavy use of all the different types of plastic finishes that we've seen in use by a lot of the firearms Co. over the last 30 or so years , there was a time when glossey and glass like were very popular more so than any other type of finish , and I have to admit that I've done my share of this type of finish, BUT IT'S NOT PERIOD correct , I was reminded of this by Dead Eye Don , in a conversation about finishes a while back, I think I've finished wood grips and rifle stocks just about every way possible, and they all have their use on different firearms, but what ever way I would finish a wood stock or grip , I always worked to bring out the grain in the wood , not hide it, even a little grain is better than none at all , sticking to a period correct finish is a nice way to bring back the OLD IN THE FIREARMS , we love, I still have a few guns that I'm going to do my ownself , when I get them done , I'll post some pictures .


                                        Good Talken At Ya Virginia Gentleman




                                                    Ten Wolves
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

Black Powder

Man, I haven't fired the first shot from my new Uberti/Cimarron and I'm thinking "tweak the grips... more authenticity..."

Thanks a lot, pards.   ;)

BP
I've got my excuses and I'm stickin' to 'em.

Virginia Gentleman

BP:  I am really pleased with the results and last night I compared the newly refinished grips on the gun to one that had the heavy red stained varnish and there is no comparison.  The arrow wood finished pair screams 19th century while the other looks way too modern and has that "sprayed on" look.  If you do refinish your grips with arrow wood you will be amazed.  My wife's double barrel Fox shotgun's stocks that were cracking and flaking are now starting to look like a London hand rubbed oil finish.  Another few light coats and it should be done.

VG


Quote from: Black Powder on February 05, 2008, 10:23:23 PM
Man, I haven't fired the first shot from my new Uberti/Cimarron and I'm thinking "tweak the grips... more authenticity..."

Thanks a lot, pards.   ;)

BP

Johnny McCrae

Virginia Gentleman,

You are right on the money in mentioning that there is no comparison between the factory finish and a hand rubbed oil finish. Please post some pictures of your handy-work when you get a chance.

Just recently refinished the grips on my Pistols and my 1866.

I used Zip-strip to remove the Varnish then Tru-Oil and #0000 steel Wool. It was easier than I thought it would be.
You need to learn to like all the little everday things like a sip of good whiskey, a soft bed, a glass of buttermilk,  and a feisty old gentleman like myself

Black Powder

Uncle, uncle!!!  ;D

I'm sure I'll do it.  ::)

Get those pics posted, VG.  Nice work, JM.  How concealed was that figured rifle stock under the factory finish?

BP
I've got my excuses and I'm stickin' to 'em.

Virginia Gentleman

BP:

I will try to post some when they are finished drying completely as I had to rub a little more Arrow Wood on them to make them perfect. :)

Johnny McCrae

Howdy BP,

Attached is a picture of the pistols and rifle before refinishing. The rifle was not too bad but my pistols looked as if they had reddish-orange plastic coating on them. The hand rubbed oil finish gives the rifle and pistols a much nicer appearance imho.
You need to learn to like all the little everday things like a sip of good whiskey, a soft bed, a glass of buttermilk,  and a feisty old gentleman like myself

Black Powder

Thanks, JM.  That rifle stock had potential written all over it.  Really a nice piece of wood to begin with.  Know what you mean about the orange plastic look.  I'm really happy with my recent purchase, but after finding this thread, I'm sure I'll fiddle with the finish.  And my 60 Army too!  Maybe even my musket...  ::)

BP
I've got my excuses and I'm stickin' to 'em.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter

Howdy Gents

          BP if your grips fit yor guns well now , make sure you don't take any more material off the wood by sanding , your wood to metal fit, could be off when you finish, ??? :o 8)

             Johnny your rifle and sixguns came out great , nice job , still haven't done mine yet .

                                                 Ten Wolves ;) :D ;D

                                       
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

Black Powder

Good advice, 10WFS.  My barber has a heckuva time putting hair back.  The grips fit the frame nice & snug edge to edge, but stick up above the frame, so I wll have to be mindful that I don't apply the same amount of sanding all over the grips.

I've been actually more concerned about how smooth a finish there is on my grips.  I figure I'm gonna be so nervous the first time out, my palms'll be all sweaty, I'll drop the gun, get DQ'd and that'll be that.

Ever the optimist.

BP
I've got my excuses and I'm stickin' to 'em.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter

Back at ya BP

         I only brought this up , because I made this mistake years ago when I did my first set of grips , you'll do just fine , I just wanted to bring this up , so you don't make the same goof. just like your barber had a problem putting hair back on , he could always suggest an implant, in your case , you could always get another set of grips  which I ended up doing, back then.Talk to you later Pard , just take your time you'll do fine. :D 8)


                                             Ten Wolves  ;) :D ;D
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

Sundance

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter

Just read your thread with interest now considering doing likewise with my Pietta Colt Navy, yeh horrible plastic shiny finish see your point lacks that authentic look.   Linseed oil the way to go, however what about Danish oil? Used this on rifle stocks with success.  Could add colour or dye to aforementioned.  Not familiar with that Arrow stuff you mention here in the UK.

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter

Howdy Sundance

            I've used Danish Oil on furniture, and wood cabinets, and for some reason, on some hard wood, I had a dard time getting it to dry, after a week I found it to still be sticky, but that could just have been a fluke, it's a good product, and has work well on other things , but I've never used it on gun stocks or wooden grips , you could always try it out , and see how it works for you , and if it doesn't you can always take it off, the same way you did the first time,or  with Acid tone, just try to avoid sanding, if your grips are fitting well now , oooo steel wool,would be fine between coats, and the steel wool will also help you get a satin finish, BUT WATCH THAT YOU DON'T TAKE ANYTHING OFF THE EDGES , YOU WANT TO KEEP THAT NICE WOOD TO METAT FIT. Like you said , you have used it with success on your rifle stocks , so give it a try , and let me know how it worked. Have fun with this , I know you will like the difference. :o ;D 8)



                                                  tEN wOLVES  ;) :D ;D
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

Virginia Gentleman

If it will work on a rifle stock, it should work great on pistol grips as well.  I still don't get why the Italians are covering up such nice wood with all that red stain and varnish?  The wood looks so nice when it is finished in the traditional hand rubbed oil finish.  I had a Taylor's and Co. 5" Schofield that had the opposite problem, the grips were rough and not well finished, so I used some 400 grit sand paper to smooth them down, then used a little walnut stain, then very lightly sanded in to blend with the stain some Arrowood finish and let dry.  I then rubbed in some boiled linseed oil in for a final finish and what a big difference it made.

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