Ed's Red Gun Cleaner

[Virginia Gentleman]

I have used this stuff for years with excellent results with shooting lead bullets.  Try some and tell me what you all think.

Here is an article about how to make and use Ed's Red:

Date: Sat, 01-10-98 (19:26) Number: 7969 Refer: 0

To: ALL

From: ED HARRIS

Subj: Ed's Red Revisited

Conf: FIREARMS (286) Read: No Status: Public

"Ed's Red" - - Revisited

By C.E., "Ed" Harris

Since I mixed my first "Ed's Red" (ER) bore cleaner five years ago, hundreds of users have told me that they find it as effective as commercial products. This cleaner has an action similar to military rifle bore cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. Itaner, such as Mil-C-372B. It is highly effective for removing plastic fouling from shotgun bores, caked carbon inn semi-automatic rifles or pistols, or leading in revolvers. "ER" is not a "decoppering" solution for fast removal of heavy jacket fouling, but because is more effective in removal of caked carbon and primer residues than most other cleaners, so metal fouling is reduced when "ER" is used.

I researched the subject rather thoroughly and determined there was no technical reason why an effective firearm bore cleaner couldn't be mixed using common hardware store ingredients. The resulting cleaner is safe, effective, inexpensive, provides excellent corrosion protection and adequate residual lubrication. Routine oiling after cleaning is unnecessary except for storage exceeding 1 year, or in harsh environments, such as salt air exposure.

The formula is adapted from Hatcher's "Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18," but substitutes equivalent modern materials. Hatcher's recipe called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and (optionally) 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin per liter into the cleaner.

Some discussion of the ingredients in ER is helpful to understand the properties of the cleaner and how it works. Pratts Astral Oil was nothing more than acidg more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. Today you would ask for "K1" kerosene of the type sold for use in indoor space heaters.

An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. Prior to 1950 most ATF's were sperm oil based. During WWII sperm oil was mostly unavailable, so highly refined, dewaxed hydrofinished petroleum oils were developed, which had excellent thermal stability. When antioxidants were added to prevent gumming these worked well in precision instruments.

With the high demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce ATFs in the needed quantities needed, so the wartime expedients were mass produced. ATFs have been continually improved over the years. The additives contained in Dexron include detergents or other surfactants which are highly suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner, lubricant and preservative.

Hatcher's Frankford Arsenal No. 18 used gum spirits of turpentine, but turpentine is both expensive and also highly flammable, so I chose not to use it. Much safer and more inexpensive are "aliphatic mineral spirits," which are an open-chain organic solvent, rather than the closed-chain, benzene ring structure, commontructure, common to "aromatics," such as naptha or "lighter fluid." Sometimes called "safety solvent," aliphatic mineral spirits are used for thinning oil based paint, as automotive parts cleaner and is commonly sold under the names "odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".

Acetone is included to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for caked smokeless powder residues. Because acetone readily evaporates and the fumes are harmful in high concentrations, it is recommended that it be left out if the cleaner will be used indoors, in soak tanks or in enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation. Containers should be kept tightly closed when not in use. ER is still effective without acetone, but not as "fast-acting."

"Ed's Red" does not chemically dissolve copper fouling in rifle bores, but it does a better job of removing carbon and primer residue than most other cleaners. Many users have told me, that frequent and exclusive use of "ER" reduces copper deposits, because it removes the old impacted powder fouling left behind by other cleaners. This reduces the abrasion and adhesion of jacket metal to the bore, leaving a cleaner surface condition which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience indicatesrience indicates that "ER" will actually remove metal fouling in bores if it is left to "soak," for a few days so the surfactants will do the job, when followed by a repeat cleaning. You simply have to be patient.

Addition of lanolin to ER is optional, because the cleaner works perfectly well and gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication without it. Inclusion of lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, increases its lubricity and film strength and improves corrosion protection if firearms, tools or equipment will be routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, or corrosive urban atmospheres.

I recommend the lanolin included if you intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for long term storage or for a "flush" after water cleaning of black powder firearms or those fired with military chlorate primers. This is because lanolin has a great affinity for water and readily emulsifies so that the bore can be wiped of residual moisture, leaving a protective film. If you inspect your guns and wipe them down twice yearly, you can leave out the lanolin and save about $10 per gallon.

At current retail prices you can buy all the ingredients to mix ER, without the lanolin for about $12 per gallon. I urge you to mix some yourself. I ame yourself. I am confident it will work as well for you as it does for me and hundreds of users who got the "recipe" on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits

CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the otherainer to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix. Label and safety warnings follow:

FIREARM BORE CLEANER

CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE -- HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED -- KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

Contents: petroleum distillates, surfactants, organometallic antioxidants and acetone.

1. Flammable mixture, keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.

3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with itsonsistent with its labeling. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:

1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.

2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.

3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled service rifles, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.

routine use.

4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average atmospheric conditions.

5. If lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years, even in a humid environment. (For longer storage use Lee Liquid Alox or Cosmolene). "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.

6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes.

7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.

8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and shots and areand shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the corrosive residue out.

This "Recipe" has been placed in the public domain, and may be freely distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all current revisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that proper attribution is given to the author.

Reply To: ed_harris@p3006.F120.n109.z1.fidonet.org

--- msged 2.05

* Origin: Home of Ed's Red (1:109/120.3006)   

[Arcey]

I was introduced to the mix over ten years ago by a friend of mine. I've been using it ever since. It works at least as well as anything commercially available and better than some I've had.

[Virginia Gentleman]

One big advantage it has over some of the other cleaners other than price is it seems to help reduce leading if it is used exclusively and after each range session.  It also wipes out any gook from unburned powder and bullet lube in a hurry.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Very Handy, sir!

Thanks for posting this.

[Virginia Gentleman]

Steel Horse Bailey:

You are most welcome and I would like to add that for the cowboy action shooter that shoots lead bullets, Ed's Red is really the only bore and gun solvent needed.  I usually keep two mixtures handy, one with the acetone for shotguns and really caked up neglected used guns I buy and one with no acetone for cleaning everything else.  My friends that shoot black powder basically use hot water/dawn liquid soap, then windex and finish off with ER.  They have had no rust problems whatsoever.  I also choose to leave out the lanolin since I use latex gloves and wash up after cleaning guns so it doesn't bother my hands.  I also use a little ATF as gun oil afterwards and have never had any problems with rust even if storing the gun for years.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Thanks again for the extra info.

I'm pretty set in my ways regarding BP cleaning, but I DO shoot other stuff, too.  I'm a solid fan of BreakFree, but there ARE better preservatives.  Thing is, I have several GALLONS of it - that was FREE - so ... the price is right.  And, having used BF under some of the harshest condition POSSIBLE, I know how to make it work - and have used it to store guns and tools as long as 10 years.  I sure like other CLEANERS better than BF, 'tho. 

IF done correctly, using BF with BP isn't the BP nightmare that some think it is - ya just have to know the limits.

I DO like what you said about your friend's use of ER and BP.  Sounds like it's good.  I'd heard of ER before, and how well it works, but you provided the recipe. 

[John Barleycorn]

what is cas # mean in the ingredient list?

[Steel Horse Bailey]

I don't remember per-zackly, but it means "C sumpthin'" - "A sumpthin'" - Solvent.

The "A" might stand for anhydrous.

[Athena Jake]

what is cas # mean in the ingredient list?

Chemical Abstracts Service

Q. What is a CAS Registry Number?

A. CAS Registry Numbers (often referred to as CAS RNs or CAS Numbers) are unique identifiers for chemical substances. A CAS Registry Number itself has no inherent chemical significance but provides an unambiguous way to identify a chemical substance or molecular structure when there are many possible systematic, generic, proprietary, or trivial names.

CAS Registry Numbers are used in many other public and private databases as well as chemical inventory listings and, of course, are included in all CAS-produced databases.

http://www.cas.org

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Well, I was close!  NOT


I said I didn't remember!  Didn't mean to put out bad info, 'tho.

Thanks for the correction, A. Jake

[Athena Jake]

Just as long as all y'all know I ain't trying to upstage any one with that flash o' knowledge!

That same question has been rattling around my head since I first read the recipe.  This time the itch was enough for me to start poking about until an answer that made the most sense popped up.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Nobody EVER accused me of makin' sense! 

[John Barleycorn]

so where do I go with this list? will the guys at the hardware store have the cas# stuff? how bout these special buckets where do I get them?

[Athena Jake]

so where do I go with this list? will the guys at the hardware store have the cas# stuff? how bout these special buckets where do I get them?

Ok, the way I read it:
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits CAS #64741-49-9,
    or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

That CAS number is like a Chemical MIL-SPEC number.  Get your self a container of "Aliphatic Mineral Spirits" then look on the label for the CAS#.  It will appear in the Chemical's MSDS information, and it should appear on the label. 


For containers:
From http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm - References for the containers.

A possible online source for metal 1 pint and 1 quart screw top metal containers suitable for storing Ed's Red is http://www.taxidermy.com/cat/18/tool.html

The Blitz USA line of approved gasoline containers can be obtained at Auto Zone, Home Depot, Wal-Mart, Target, and other retailers and are what I use.  (www.blitzusa.com).

[Virginia Gentleman]

Heck I don't even get that fancy with containers, I just mix some up in a galvenized bucket and pour it into old metal topped glass jars like jelly or apple sauce jars.  The nearest Home Depot or Lowes will have the acetone, varsol (odorless mineral spirits) and deoderized kerosene or the kerosene can be purchased at the nearest filling station.  The ATF can be had at Auto-Zone, Wal-Mart or filling station.  The stuff is so easy to make it is unbelieveable and it really works and works very, very well.

[Arcey]

I'm too clumsy for glass. The floors where I use the stuff are concrete.

My choice is large brake fluid cans the local repair shops are more'n happy ta let ya take outtah their trash. Knock those off the bench 'n they don't (oh my, this is gonna be bad) 'brake'.

[John Barleycorn]

I found a qt. of Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF in the garage label says its completely compatible with non-synthetics. Can I use this? Its about 95% full and don't see why I would buy a new qt. since I got this one.