Rodeo Base Pin Jumps Out - Followup

Started by North Bender, December 25, 2007, 04:15:33 PM

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North Bender

I posted a while back that my base pin was jumping forward when I shot my new Rodeo.

I called Gary Granger at USFA and he said he would send a FedEx call tag and fix the pistol.  I thought, well since it's going back to the factory, what else should I do?  How about those "Fire Blue Appointments"?

Look what came on Christmas Eve.  I haven't shot it yet, but it looks cool! USFA replaced the crosspin, cylinder pin, and removed a burr on the cylinder bolt in addition to the Blued parts.


RRio

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Charlie Bison

Quote from: North Bender on December 25, 2007, 04:15:33 PM
I posted a while back that my base pin was jumping forward when I shot my new Rodeo.

I called Gary Granger at USFA and he said he would send a FedEx call tag and fix the pistol.  I thought, well since it's going back to the factory, what else should I do?  How about those "Fire Blue Appointments"?

Look what came on Christmas Eve.  I haven't shot it yet, but it looks cool! USFA replaced the crosspin, cylinder pin, and removed a burr on the cylinder bolt in addition to the Blued parts.



That looks really good!!!

Doc Sunrise

Nice Gun North Bender.  That looks SWEET!!!

North Bender

Thanks guys.  It's kind of out there putting blued screws on the workhorse, but it sure looks good.

I got the pistol to the range today.  Shot over 50 rounds of "Top Brass" ammunition (came loose in an ammo can at a gun show) and about 20 rounds of Goex Black Dawge.  No more problems with the base pin.  The pistol is fixed.  And shoots better than I can aim.

My thanks to Gary Granger and USFA for taking care of this in such a short time.  After I called it took one week to receive the FedEX tag because of the holidays.  But from the day I sent it to the day I received the repaired pistol was 7 days.

Charlie Bison

Quote from: North Bender on December 27, 2007, 04:04:37 PM
Thanks guys.  It's kind of out there putting blued screws on the workhorse, but it sure looks good.

I got the pistol to the range today.  Shot over 50 rounds of "Top Brass" ammunition (came loose in an ammo can at a gun show) and about 20 rounds of Goex Black Dawge.  No more problems with the base pin.  The pistol is fixed.  And shoots better than I can aim.

My thanks to Gary Granger and USFA for taking care of this in such a short time.  After I called it took one week to receive the FedEX tag because of the holidays.  But from the day I sent it to the day I received the repaired pistol was 7 days.

If you don't mind me askin, how much did they charge to have those fired blued appoitments done? Now you have me thinking.
Thanks

North Bender

Charlie, I certainly don't mind you asking, but because this was a deal worked up over the phone with Gary covering the cost of shipping and the warrenteed repair work I think my price was unique.  It may have been a standard price ... dunno, but USFA has an 800 number and it's no hassle to check so if you don't mind I'll refer you right to them.  Then I'll ask you what they quoted!

Virginia Gentleman

If you get some 600 grit sandpaper and some Nitre Bluing salts (potassium nitrate or stump remover), degrease them, heat the Nitre salts until molten, dip the parts in and take them out when fire blue, quench them in distilled water and soak in WD 40, you can do it yourself.  I have done 3 sets of screws, 5 base pins, 5 triggers and 2 hammers this way and they look awesome.

Charlie Bison

Where exactly can I find these salts to buy?

North Bender

Feed 'n Seed store for potassium nitrate, Home Depot for distilled water, brake cleaner for degreasing.  I've thought about trying the process but people have posted various success or lack of success stories.  VG, I understand the temperature is real important - don't you heat the parts first, and how do you monitor the temperatures?

Virginia Gentleman

I use a propane stove section on my grill and wait until the temp is about 700F, dunk the polished parts in until they turn the right color and then quench them in distilled water and then quench in WD 40.  Works perfect everytime.  Brownell's sells the Nitre bluing salts, but it is a bit pricey.

Sixshooter_45

Quote from: Virginia Gentleman on December 31, 2007, 02:02:56 PM
I use a propane stove section on my grill and wait until the temp is about 700F, dunk the polished parts in until they turn the right color and then quench them in distilled water and then quench in WD 40.  Works perfect everytime.  Brownell's sells the Nitre bluing salts, but it is a bit pricey.

Will this work on stainless steel, I don't think it will but I am not sure.
Sixshooter_45

Capt. John Fitzgerald

Sixshooter,
You definately will not get the results you are looking for with stainless steel.  You will get discoloration but nothing even close to the fire blue look.
You can't change the wind, but you can always change your sails.

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