Removing, Reinstalling Barrel for the 76

[CarverTripp]

Howdy all,
At some point in time I'll be removing the barrel of my Uberti 76 for refinishing. I've never done one of these before and so I'd like to ask you better experienced folks, the best method and procedure for removing and then reinstalling so's I don't muck it up! I'm wondering what is the appropriate tools, (barrel vise ect.), and the best way to hold the receiver ect. By the way, thanks Grizzly for the tutorial on looking inside the 76, that was great. 
Thanks for the help,
Carver

[Leverluver]

I put the barrel in a barrel vice equipped with octagon wood blocks, although round barrel blocks migh twork just as well.  The action wrench (home made) was made for flat sided action.  The wrench must be positioned as far forward (close to barrel) as possible.  The action is not terribly strong (for wrenchs) due to the metal removed for the cartridge elevator.  The walls in that area are only ~1/8" thick so crowd as far forward as you can.  I put the elevator into the mortice and put a layer of masking tape to both hold the elevator in and to keep the wrench from leaving marks.  The elevator adds some strength to the thin walled action.  When I go back together, I will machine a metal block that is a perfect fit to the action to take the place of the elevator; that would make it even stronger.  Luckily, the barrel was not in that tight and just one pop on the action wrench broke it lose.  It was not in there anything like the barrel on a bolt action.     

[CarverTripp]

Thank you Leverluver,
When I'm installing a breech plug on a Hawken, once the plug is in it's final position I key it with a punch right on the seam between the two. Question is: is there such a mark on the Uberti 76 and where is it located? When reinstalling, I'd like to know how far to go to put it back in the exact same position. Thanks for the help
Carver

[Leverluver]

There is a very small ledge on the barrel that butts up to the face of the action.  That pretty well indexes it.  I saw no witness marks but if you want to make a small one (preferably on the bottom) have at it.  You won't be able to see it once you put the magazine back on anyway.     

[CarverTripp]

Leverluver, again, thanks for the help. In a reply above you said: I put the barrel in a barrel vice equipped with octagon wood blocks Is this the vise from Brownell's? Does it come with the wood blocks? Did you make it?
Carver

[Leverluver]

They did not come from Brownells so and I don't know whether they make them (oct blocks) or not.  I make all my own out of a good hardwood that has the grain going parallel to the split between the blocks.  I think mine are apple wood.  The oct blocks were just laying around.  I drill a hole in the block the diameter I want and then saw the block in half.  If you want to "oct" a round hole, just use a wood chisel.  Round would work fine and should really bite into the octagon (actually the other way around).  All the tools were made but Brownells type (saw similar in Midway) vise is a good buy if you don't have the machinery and materials to make your own.  I made my "mauser" wrench but I bought my "rem 700" wrench.  Just whichever you have more of; time or money; works either way.  The wrench is just a thick, long piece of metal with another shorter piece of metal and holes drilled through the shorter piece and matching threaded holes in the longer piece.  Put brass plate between the wrench and the action, top and bottom, to keep from marring it, tighten down the bolts evenly, and smack the end with a hammer.