Pistola round ball ramming question?

[Mad Mucus]

G'day,

Re. ROA and .457" ball.... after several loads I'm finding it difficult to seat balls due to chamber tightness. Whatta y'all do to maintain easy ramming?

Currently overlubing, not using wads.

Thanks,
Mucus

[Dick Dastardly]

Howdy double M,

How soft are your balls?  Hard ones will load harder.  The ROA shaves/swages the .457 round balls down to .454 when you seat them.  Also, you are encountering some soot buildup from them and that makes the chambers tighter.  The lube on top of the ball does nothing for the soot under it.  The over ball smear merely blows down the barrel and thru the barrel/cylinder gap.  In fact if you do it so you don't blow your head off, you will notice that after one or two shots all the lube is blown off the adjacent chambers.  So, you have lube for one shot and then practically none.

We solved this problem entirely with the Big Lube™ designs for the ROA.  Specifically, the DD/ROA 45-210 and the lil EPP-UG 45-150 are lube/sized to .454.  They haul plenty of lube so none other is needed.  The bases are rebated to .450 so the bullets sit in the chambers and rest on the driving bands nice and square for easy seating.  When seated there is no shaved lead, but a nice snug interference fit.  They don't back out with even the stoutest charge of bp.  Since all the lube is held between the driving bands it remains there till the chamber is shot and then delivers all it's lube where it's needed.  Each chamber has a full charge of lube till it's needed.

DD-DLoS

[hellgate]

I put a lube wad under the ball and it keeps the chambers free of buildup on the mouths. DD's big lube bullets will do the same.

[will52100]

never had a problem with soft lead balls before.  I don't normaly use a felt wad, just a wipe of crisco over the top after loading.  I've put over 200 rounds each through a pair of 51's without a problem loading.  Same for a 60 army.  A lot of times when I'm in a cap and ball mood, I'll go a week or two without cleaning and only clean when I got to head out again, and no trouble with loading. 

What powder are you using?  I generaly use Graf's 3F black powder

[Paladin UK]

Ho MM

FWIW.........

I have and use DDs ROA mold but there are times when I wanna jest use ball, and here`s what I do.....

1.Powder
2.orange carton wad
3.Felt wad soaked in lube of your choice
4.Ball
The orange carton wad is completly water-seep proof so`s ya kin shoot jest as slow as ya like, n get no ingress onta yer Holy Black

Paladin (What lurvs the Holy Black  ) UK

[Noz]

Squirt a little Wonder Lube or equivalent in the container you carry your balls in.
The lubed balls slide into the chamber a little easier.

[Cactus Cris]

Have but one ??  IF the .457 ball is .454 after it is rammed in--Why not start with a .454 size to begin with???  I  have been using the .454 ball for at least 8 yrs. in everything inc. my ROA's with no loss of acc., no chain fires, and no puff--bang because of light compression.  I use the loading tool that Powder Inc. & DD sell and it works great.  A little lube around the edge of the ball after it is in & bang x 5.
  I do use the EPP-UG also when a knock-down rears its ugly head.
  Have proof that the ROA will run forever (at least 12 stages worth)  Shot a Sat 6 stage with the R&D's using the EPP-UG, schofield brass- 6 stages using the C&B cylinders on Sun.  Didn't touch them between (no cleaning- not even the bore)  Mason can verify!
  ROA's can't be beat for reliable.

[River City John]

I have gently chamfered the mouth of all my cylinders so that the balls do not shave off a ring of lead when loading, but rather get squeezed down.
I shoot somewhat reduced loads using Triple 7 in ffg. and do not use any lube over nor under the ball. I do put a bit of Ballistol on the cylinder pin. They get through a six stage match with no problem.
My caliber is .36, so I'm burning less powder with each charge than a .44cal, which no doubt helps.

I have some of the Buffalo Ball-ets in .375 with reduced heel that I want to experiment with. We have some pesky 'leprechaun' knockdown silhouette targets that a regular round ball just doesn't phase sometimes. The greater weight may be the answer.

[will52100]

I only shoot at the local match, but have never had trouble with knock downs, even with the 36 navies.  I generaly load a full 21 grains of 3f.  I did have one glancing blow that I saw but two of the spoters didn't and it cost me a clean match.

[Mad Mucus]

G'day,

Re. ROA and .457" ball.... after several loads I'm finding it difficult to seat balls due to chamber tightness. Whatta y'all do to maintain easy ramming?

Currently overlubing, not using wads.

Thanks,
Mucus

OK... .457" balls are Taipan pure soft lead. When I bought the ROA new, the dealer offered me a box of 750 at a price I couldn't refuse. Still have about 400 to shoot and was looking for a way to keep build-up to a minimum in the chambers.

Shot some of DD's sample 210 ROA BigLubes over 30gr Wano 3f and they're tops... considering a mould?
Tried some Hornady .454" balls and they ram easily with better accuracy than the .457"s.

Wallaby Jack's method of prelubing the balls with 50/50 beeswax & lanolin grease on the underside worked best so I'll give it another burl.

Thanks for your input,
Mucus

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy!

Like RCJ, I chamfered my Remington NMA chamber mouths. 

Also, I've been using the swaged Hornady sprueless balls for years both .452" & .454" depending on whether I'm shooting my Remington or my Colt.  What I've found is that they AREN'T perfectly round, so I'd still use the softest (like the 400 you still have) .457" balls and keep on ramming.  Using some lube on the mouths as you're seating them probably is your best bet.

Also, what is your opinion about ramming pressure?  Do you feel afraid that the loading lever will break?  Or is it just very stiff - which is probably normal.  It's kind of a personal thing.  I've heard of folks breaking their loading levers, but never seen it.  However, they were using conical, not roundball bullets made of common alloy lead for smokeyless projectiles which is MUCH harder than pure lead or even most wheelweight lead.

[Mad Mucus]

Went down to my local gunshop & 25yd indoor range today... put a deposit down on another ROA (as new unfired stainless 7.5"  AUS$550) pending a Permit to Aquire... and fired off another 50x .457" balls using Wallaby Jack's prelube method.

Rolling the lube into half-shot size balls, sticking them on and forming a rough cone shape, left enough grease on my fingers tips to put a light smear all over the ball, making ramming a breeze...



Had a good day,
Mucus 

 

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Cool!

[Dr. Bob]

I'll bet Steele Horse is in the loading room putting lube on round balls!!   He sure  knows how to have fun!

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy!

Dr. Bob - I sure DO have fun!  And you've been a big part of it.

As for lubing my balls  I am a fan of lube over the rammed ball.  It's messy and slower than a pre-lubed ball (like Mad Mucus' picture) OR a lubed wad, but it keeps my C&B guns, both Colt and Remington types running for the whole match with no "draggy" or sticking problems.