Metering Black Powder?

[Gripmaker]

Just finished loadign a pot-full of BP cartridges and was wondering how you'all meter the Black when you have such loadings as 31 gr or 33 gr, etc.  I have a method that has never failed but am a little leery of mentioning due to homegrown chemists who may get their panties in a bunch. Besides, I know how I do it but someone else may have a better idea.
Thanks for your help in advance.

[Mad Mucus]

For me simple is best...
*place a primed case under the drop-tube, *set brass adjustable powder measure and place a funnel on top, *hold over a bowl, dump a scoop of powder in, lift off the funnel and use it to level the top, *pour into funnel atop the drop-tube, *put filled case in a loading block and continue 'til there's fifty, check levels under a bright light then move on to the next stage.

Mucus

[Dick Dastardly]

I  use the LEE auto disk on my Pro 1000 progressive.  Does a great job.

DD-DLoS

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

I used Lee dippers for a long time. I did not attempt to get 'exactly' XX.X grains of powder into a case. I went about it from the opposite end, which is ultimately simpler. I chose the Lee dipper that gave me the correct amount of compression in the particular case for the particular bullet that I was using. It's that simple. Going strictly by weight can be a dead end because the weight of BP varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. By choosing the dipper that gave me the compression I wanted, I could duplicate my loads reasonably accurately from load to load. This method is not precise enough for precision shooting like BPCR, but it is fine for CAS.

For instance, in both 45 Colt and 44-40 I used a Lee 2.2CC dipper. Regardless of whether it was FFg or FFFg. This dipper gave me about 1/16" of compression with the bullets I was using. That was fine. Later, strictly for refereces purposes I weighed how much 2.2CC of Elephant FFg, Elephant FFFg, Goex FFg, and Goex FFg weighed, and wrote it down in my reloading notebook. But these values were strictly for reference, not to use as my actual load. It turns out that each of those 4 combinations weighed slightly different.

A couple of years ago I mounted a Lyman Black Powder measure on my progressive press. I set it to drop the exact same volume of powder that I was already using, 2.2CC. The BP powder measure has speeded things up considerably over hand dipping. I don't bother weighing my charges for CAS.

[Mossyrock]

If I am loading BP for my .44 Colt Open Top, I meter each charge and then visually verify the same level before seating the bullet.  If I am loading for my 50-70, I scoop and electronically weigh each charge, trickle each charge into the case with a 24" drop tube, then visually verify each charge level.  Slow?  Yes it is.  It usually takes me the better part of an hour to load 25 rounds, with scooping, weighing, trickling, compressing and seating.  But, then again, the .44 Colt loads are more for fun.  That 50-70 is for more serious stuff.   

[Noz]

Hey Gripmaker,
Use a big handfull for shotgun and a little handfull for rifle/pistol.  You should know that!

[Cyrille]

Hey Gripmaker,
Use a big handfull for shotgun and a little handfull for rifle/pistol.  You should know that!

Yep! That'll improve yer accuracy fer shore!

[Gripmaker]

Hey Noz,  The onliest problem with that is that neither of my hands are the same size so I'm gonna end up with a kaboom in one load and a KABOOM in another. Quite disconcerting during a shoot. "Course it has to be better than watching your ejector rod housing head south in the middle of a stage (like stage 2 last Saturday).

Thanks to the rest of you for the info.  I just use my Lee Perfect Powder Measure washed out with Shaklee's Basic H to eliminate the possiblity of static discharge and dump enough to seat a 200 RNFP under about 1/16" compression. Seat, crimp and shoot.  The interesting part is that these loads are surprisingly accurate in my "66" out beyond 200 yds.

My curiosity has been sated.

[Fox Creek Kid]

Gripmaker, I'd tell you my method but as I know you're in Missouri and numbers are mysterious to folks thereabouts I'll refrain. 

[Dick Dastardly]

Ok Pard,

So I'm the odd man out, again. . .  But, I've loaded many thousands of rounds of bp ammo on my progressive press and I'm absolutely happy with my rig.  I use a LEE Pro 1000 with an auto disk measure.  I have NO concern for my safety and my handsome face does not risk any disfigurement from accidental ignition.

I don't smoke.  I load under clean conditions.  My rig runs clean and I make exactly the ammo I want.

Your mileage may vary, but I couldn't load enuf ammo fast enuf to keep up with my pards that keep grabbing ammo off my cart without a progressive rig.

Load yer ammo.  Enjoy the smoke.  If you loose yer face, don't blame me.

DD-DLoS

[Noz]

Dick.
Ol Gripmaker has loaded a couple of rounds of the black stuff. He's just wanting someone to tell him he's right in what he's doing!
Of course, he's talking about going to Gunfighter so he cain't be too smart.

Gripmaker:
Thursday night at Ozark Posse. Start about 6.

Sat to the Leadslingers in Ark.

[Col. Cornelius Gilliam]

Howdy,

I used to use an old Ideal No. 5 antique powder measure, clamped to the bench.

I have since upgraded to a Lyman powder measure (with an aluminum hopper) mounted to the Dillon 550.  It has really increased my reloading speed.

[Dick Dastardly]

Ho NozzleRag,

First of all, congrats on bringing yer bride along to the wire.  Long lasting marriages are a blessing.  I got married to my bride back in '62.

As for GF, it's an affliction.  Once SASS matches are shot that way, anything less is not as much fun.  One gun in each hand dealin' out justice Cowboy style is a true shootist's way.  I'm still grinnin'.

Good luck at Ozark Posse. .

DD-DLoS

[panhead pete]

Howdy,

Myself and a compadre use an RCBS "NOT for BP USE" plastic hopper powder measure.  Ever since the article in the SASS paper where a BP company (I forget which) tried to INDUCE a static charge scientifically to a pile of BP to ignite it and FAILED I decided that myth was busted!   I use the plastic measure and drop the powder in 50 or so cases at a time in a case holder.  My compadre has loaded thousands of rounds of BP this way.  You do need to use graphite on it if it is kept in a humid garage like mine to keep the workings free.

It reminds of the Halloween apple with the razor blade in it story.  Everyone swears it happens but they don't know to whom it happened!!??

Yours,

Panhead Pete

PS, I can't wait to hear the guff this one will cause!!!!!!

[Cyrille]

Keep Listening!

[Dick Dastardly]

We're in this for fun, Pards.  So if worrying about sparks is making the loading less fun, do what you are comfortable with.  None of us will get a belt buckle for our ammo at the Cowboy fair.  We simply load cuz it allows us to shoot more.  We load cuz it's fun.  We load cuz the enjoyable time spent at the bench is usually quiet time for happy reflection.  We load in anticipation of matches to come.

It's not about teasing the dragon, yes I load that brand of powder, and it's not about macho.  It is about fun.

If you load with a progressive as I do and do all the steps on the press, you're probably safe.  If you prefer to dip your powder, you're probably safe.  If you prefer to buy a spendy powder measure, I've got two, that's your option and it's probably safe.

If you smoke while loading ammo yer probably gonna blow yer fool head off.

DD-DLoS

[Noz]

I've gone back to dipping because none of my powder measures will drop consistent loads, Not because of measurement difficulties but because the powder bridges in the drop tubes/funnel(plastic).

[Steel Horse Bailey]

I do the old fashioned thing: I fill up the volume I need, then measure it so satisfy my curiosity only and to have a general reference point.  I think everyone here will agree to the old "fill it up to the right volume" direction and insure there is no air space.  Compression varies, of course, by the different types of powder/sub being used. 

EVERY type or granulation or powder I've used has produced a different weight per volume I've bothered to measure - up to 3.0 gr. variance (about 10%) from type to type.  I've even had minor differences from can-to-can within the same lot# ... but not much. 

[Noz]

Seth, I'll try that. I've tried wiping down with a "dryer sheet". Lasts for a little while.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy!

Nozzle Rag, I think Seth has got ya goin' on the  straight 'n narrow.  I wasn't sure about ANY dish soap, but I've been told that Lux Liquid (or Lix Luquid as I prefer    ) will leave the plastic static free for a while.  I suspect that most any dish soap has whatever properties it takes - I'd only heard of Lux.  I've also been told, by Lee and Hodgdon techs, that there ARE plastics that are safe from static build-up.  It's what the Lee dippers, all synthetic powder containers, and pretty much most of the plastic powder handling tools are generally made from.

If washing your tools in a dish soap or rubbing it with a dryer sheet (which I've ALSO heard of before Seth mentioned it) will help reduce "static cling" as well as giving you (and me) some peace of mind, well - I'm all for it!  Besides, cleanliness is good!  And safety is Numero Uno!



As a side note, if any of you are "nose-hose" Troopers, my nurse said that Dawn liquid dish soap is the BEST soap to wash the hoses and stuff with.