1858 Remingtons in Cowboy Fast draw

[R.U. Snickering]

Howdy Pards, I have a brace of NMA and have a Kirst conversion cylinder that I use in one of them. Have any of you used one of your full length 1858's in the new Cowboy Fast Draw. I understand they have a special group for the long barrel pistols matched with a Slim Jim style holster. Would like to hear from those that have shot in the CFDA.

[Marshal Deadwood]

Well, you got a fine pair of revolvers. I have one '58 percussion and wish to get a '58conversion. I'd be totin' the same deal as you...might not beat the clock , but sure would be shootin' with class!

Congrats on fine guns.

Marshal Deadwood  *who LOVES Colt '60armys and '58 Rems.

[Cincy Slim]

Hate to provide a discouraging word but...

I Got a Pietta NMA and dropped in a Kirst ported cylinder after cutting the recoil shield. Ordered a mess of 209 primer powered "fast draw" brass and wax bullets. I strapped on my Black Hills Leather "Morgan" rig and headed out to the shed to practice slappin' leather. Got pretty good after a while but after maybe 2-300 rounds I got some timing issues. My slappin' and banging had chewed up the tip of the hand and the cylinder wasn't always carrying around far enough. I replaced the hand and considered the problem...

In order to provide clearance for the rims of the cartridge when loading, the "star" or ratchet on the back of the Kirst cylinder is MUCH smaller than the Percussion version or the R&D style which does not have to provide room for a loading port. With the Kirst only just the tip of the hand engages the "star". This is OK for regular use but the higher loads produced during fast draw "leather slappin" will quickly beat up the tip of the hand. The original Colt conversions got around this by advancing the "star" or ratchet's teeth so thay are not in line with the chambers. This is the reason those and all later Colts had a "two fingered" hand. Since the Remmies are like earlier Colts the ratchet teeth or points of the "star" are in line with cylinders. This limits the size of the "star".

The Kirst is a well designed/built unit but not the best choice for real fast draw use.
Given the ease with which a Remmie can change out the cylinder, the R&D two piece cylinder is just as fast and easy to reload compared to punching out the empties one at the time through a loading port...

Happy Trails,

Slim

[Halfway Creek Charlie]

I collect Remy Original Conversions. I have noticed that the hands are thicker and set closer to the the centerline of the cylinder to catch more of the pawl. The hand slot has been widened towards the Center line as well. This may be a good fix.

[TIZWIN]

Gents--I don't do fast draw, but I've heard of the tips of Remmie hands being worn when used with the Kirst cylinder.  Would having a spare hand be advisable?  And how difficult would it be to fit one, so it would be "handy" (sorry for the pun) and drop in on demand?

[Cincy Slim]

Gents--I don't do fast draw, but I've heard of the tips of Remmie hands being worn when used with the Kirst cylinder.  Would having a spare hand be advisable?  And how difficult would it be to fit one, so it would be "handy" (sorry for the pun) and drop in on demand?

Yes Sir,

The hand is a high-wear item on any revolver used in competition. The double toothed hand on the Colts came about when the "star" or ratchet was clocked further around to provide more room for the loading ports on the Colt conversion revolvers. The stress of the rotational force got distributed between the two "teeth". This was an unintended bonus. Spare/replacement hands are availble from VTI, Dixie Gunworks and, for Piettas, Cabela's. They are sold too long and must be fitted to the individual gun. Using the old one as a pattern, if it's not too buggered up, usually will work pretty well. Just file to be a little bit longer than the original and test fit. You want it to be long enough to fully rotate the cylinder to the stop notches where the bolt pops into. The problems occur due to hammer overtravel during fast draw. If the hammer travels past the sear notch a fair distance before bottoming out on the rear of the slot on the gripstrap part of the frame the bolt locks up the cylinder and the too long hand jambs up against the stationary "star"ratchet on the back of the cylinder. The little bitty single pointed hand then becomes the de-facto hammer stop. That'll beat it up really quick !

How do I know ? Well..."been there-done that"

Slim