Difference between Pre-war and SAA

sharps50/70 · June 10, 2007, 10:39:29 AM

What is the main difference between the USFA pre-war and their standard SAA revolvers? It seems from their web site that it is really only the blue finish and the serial number marks. Is the blueing on the pre-war a true rust blue?

Just wondering if the pre-war is worth the extra money.

Thanks,

Rich

RRio · June 10, 2007, 12:08:02 PM

Pre War has the V-Groove for the rear sight, SAA has squared notch.

Sixshooter_45 · June 10, 2007, 08:06:24 PM

Quote from: Rawhide Rio on June 10, 2007, 12:08:02 PM
Pre War has the V-Groove for the rear sight, SAA has squared notch.

Their website shows that you can purchase the Pre-War either way, (Sights: Square Notch Rear, Square Front Blade
'V' Notch Rear with Blade Front), and that the SAA does in fact come with the Square Notch Rear, Square Front Blade.

Banjoman · June 10, 2007, 08:12:27 PM

Rich,
The primary difference is in the bluing. The SA's Dome Blue is sometimes referred to as a hot tank blue. It's the primary bluing method used on 95% of guns being made today by the various manufactures. It also comes standard with a white sided hammer. The Pre War's Armory Blue is a carbonna blue and is done in a furnace. The PW comes standard with a color case hammer and is available in either a black powder frame (V notch rear sight) or a cross pin frame (square notch rear sight).
Banjoman

RRio · June 11, 2007, 01:28:08 PM

Quote from: Banjoman on June 10, 2007, 08:12:27 PM
Rich,
The primary difference is in the bluing. The SA's Dome Blue is sometimes referred to as a hot tank blue. It's the primary bluing method used on 95% of guns being made today by the various manufactures. It also comes standard with a white sided hammer. The Pre War's Armory Blue is a carbonna blue and is done in a furnace. The PW comes standard with a color case hammer and is available in either a black powder frame (V notch rear sight) or a cross pin frame (square notch rear sight).
Banjoman

I bought my first USFA from a friend, it is a nickeled 4 3/4" .45. It has the BP frame and the V notch rear sight. A couple years back I spoke to some one in CS, and they told me that it was a Pre-War. I was under the impression that the V notch is what determined Pre War. Now I'm all confused.

North Bender · June 11, 2007, 02:19:18 PM

When I bought my Pre-War this year I think that it was assumed that I wanted the square notch rear sight; I was never asked. Aside from the options I chose for the pistol, the only thing the factory asked me to decide about was the cross-pin or black powder frame.

Since the Pre-War models the Colts produced prior to WWII, wouldn't the square notch sight be period correct? At least that was my assumption.

Banjoman · June 11, 2007, 08:32:50 PM

Rio,
I won't let a dealer order a PW with a nickel finish. The price differential between the PW and the SA reflects the Dome Blue verses the Armory Blue. Since the gun is going to be nickeled, why have the dealer pay for the Armory Blue when he never gets it. Whoever at USFA told you that you had a PW was mistaken.

North Bender,
When a dealer places an order where there is an option for a BP or CP frame, the dealer is asked which frame style he wants. The differences are explained to him and I would suspect in a few situations, he makes the decision for the customer.

When Colt switched to the CP frame (around 1892), they still retained the V notch rear sight. We used to have some CP frames with V notch rear sights (and BP frames with square notch rear sights) but these combinations were dropped about 12-15 months ago. They were never a catalog item but special runs (or mistakes) that were occasionally done. I'm not sure when Colt adopted the square notch sight.
Banjoman

RRio · June 11, 2007, 09:07:41 PM

So, let me ask you this then, can you get the SAA with the V Notch?

Banjoman · June 11, 2007, 09:30:34 PM

Rio,
You can get a SA with a BP frame which will come with a V notch rear sight. You can't get a CP frame with a V notch rear sight. However, USFA limits the number of BP frames that are made. They are primarily allocated to the Inspector/Custer revolvers and Pre Wars. BP frames are available on the Gunslinger and SA but at an increased cost. BP frames are also standard (minus ejector) on the Sheriff Model.
Banjoman

sharps50/70 · June 12, 2007, 06:31:46 AM

Great discussion, thanks for the answers guys.

Rich

Deadeye Don · June 12, 2007, 06:59:53 AM

Quote from: Banjoman on June 11, 2007, 09:30:34 PM
Rio,
You can get a SA with a BP frame which will come with a V notch rear sight. You can't get a CP frame with a V notch rear sight. However, USFA limits the number of BP frames that are made. They are primarily allocated to the Inspector/Custer revolvers and Pre Wars. BP frames are available on the Gunslinger and SA but at an increased cost. BP frames are also standard (minus ejector) on the Sheriff Model.
Banjoman

Like these?

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t283/Psychman/AinsworthUSFA.jpg

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t283/Psychman/SAASheriffs.jpg

Safe shooting. Deadeye.

Sixshooter_45 · June 12, 2007, 05:06:08 PM

Quote from: Banjoman on June 11, 2007, 09:30:34 PM
Rio,
You can get a SA with a BP frame which will come with a V notch rear sight. You can't get a CP frame with a V notch rear sight. However, USFA limits the number of BP frames that are made. They are primarily allocated to the Inspector/Custer revolvers and Pre Wars. BP frames are available on the Gunslinger and SA but at an increased cost. BP frames are also standard (minus ejector) on the Sheriff Model.
Banjoman

Is there any advantage, (or is it just period correct), of a getting a BP vs. a CP frame?

RRio · June 13, 2007, 03:12:45 AM

Banjoman,
According to: http://usfirearms.com/cat/single-action-revolver.asp where you can build your "Single Action" you cannot get the V Notch sight. Only on the other page for "Pre War" http://usfirearms.com/cat/prewar.asp does it show the V notch.
Going by that, on their very own site, I would have to say that mine is in fact, a Pre War.

Deadeye Don · June 13, 2007, 06:31:42 AM

Quote from: Sixshooter_45 on June 12, 2007, 05:06:08 PM
Is there any advantage, (or is it just period correct), of a getting a BP vs. a CP frame?

Well I am not sure if you are asking Gary Granger a direct question or not. However, from a consumer perspective the only difference is whether or not you need a screwdriver to remove the cylinder for cleaning or not. With the black powder frame you need one and with the CP frame you do not. I prefer the black powder frame for NCOWS purposes as the CP frame was a later innovation. Safe shooting. Deadeye.

Banjoman · June 13, 2007, 08:15:26 AM

Rio,
Thanks for the calling our attention to the Pre War finish on the site. The site was redone awhile back and the nickel option should not be available on the Pre war. Also on the SA, there should be a note saying that if a BP frame is ordered, it comes with a V notch rear site.
Banjoman

sharps50/70 · June 13, 2007, 08:48:02 AM

Bangoman,

Is the blueing on the pre-war less likely to wear off with holster use? A harder, stronger blue finish.

Also, while I have your attention, let me ask you another question. I purchased a Rodeo from Frontier Classic Firearms. Now I'd like to get a set of wood grips for it. Can I order the grips from USFA for an after-market fit on the guns. Will the grips just fit on without much adjustment?

Thanks

Rich

Banjoman · June 13, 2007, 12:29:23 PM

Rich,
The Armory Blue is somewhat impregnated into the steel but not very deep at all. Though it maybe slightly harder, it will scratch and show wear just like a Dome Blue gun. Should you chose to get an Armory Blue gun "re blued" it will be much more expensive. Also, Dome Blue doesn't vary in color but an Armory Blue gun may vary in color. For example, suppose you purchased a 45 Pre War last year and now want to purchase an acp cylinder. The coloration of the new cylinder may be a little off compared to the original gun.

Regarding grips, with the exception of the hard rubber and tru Ivory, all of our other material is not profiled. The wood (3" x 5" x 5/8") is laid on the frame and the outline is traced. Then it's cut and sanded. Also, each locater pin hole is drilled for the gun the grip is to mated to. Our grips are fitted while the gun is in the white to get the best fit possible. When a gun is returned for gripping, we also end up repolishing and bluing the backstrap and trigger guard. We have to do that because we can't get it close enough without touching the BS or TG in the process. That's a long winded way of saying we don't carry or offer profiled grips other than hard rubber or Tru Ivory. Even our hard rubber is as much as 1/16" oversize.
Banjoman

Deadeye Don · June 13, 2007, 12:50:39 PM

So when can we place an order for one of the USFA Remingtons?

sharps50/70 · June 13, 2007, 01:03:32 PM

Banjoman,

Thanks for the info on the grips. That certainly is the right way to fit grips.

Rich

RangerDan · February 09, 2008, 05:45:33 AM

Quote from: Banjoman on June 10, 2007, 08:12:27 PM
Rich,
The primary difference is in the bluing. The SA's Dome Blue is sometimes referred to as a hot tank blue. It's the primary bluing method used on 95% of guns being made today by the various manufactures. It also comes standard with a white sided hammer. The Pre War's Armory Blue is a carbonna blue and is done in a furnace. The PW comes standard with a color case hammer and is available in either a black powder frame (V notch rear sight) or a cross pin frame (square notch rear sight).
Banjoman

Is there a way to determine which blue finish I have? Is there a visual difference in serial number location?

Dan