A Handy Link for Smoothing a 51 Navy

[Dusty Morningwood]

This link has pretty good step by step instructions, with photos, for smoothing the action on a 51 Navy.

http://users.adelphia.net/%7edanwagner/action.html

Will try this on my two 2nd Gens. when I get a chance.

[Fox Creek Kid]

Gunsmithing Rule #1: if you have a Dremel lock it away!    I have seen more guns f*^&%$ up by people attempting to do their own gunsmithing than I can remember. One lick too many on a hand and POOF over rotation!! Just my two cents, that website is not good info. I would never recommend anyone to touch the engagement areas of a hammer unless they absolutely knew what they were doing (which 99% don't). I'm not flaming you Dusty. It's just that I have seen many CAS guns ruined by neophytes having read something off an Internet website. Don't get me wrong, there are good sites but the vast majority are not. If a person does not know absolutely know what they are doing then don't do it!! If you want to learn practice on an old junker or have someone who knows show you. I'll step down from the soapbox now.

[St. George]

If you feel that you just 'have' to smooth up your revolver - please don't use this site as a guide.

Instead - buy a copy of Dave Chicoine's 'Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West'  - and locate a copy of George Nonte's 'Pistolsmithing' - and read them thoroughly, before you ever touch a tool.

Especially a 'mighty' Dremel Tool...

You'll learn a lot about how nineteenth century firearms work and more about 'theory' in the gunsmithing of them - and that's valuable information to possess...

Casehardening is microns thick - and the mating surfaces are precise, in quality-built firearms.

The most they might need is 'burnishing' - and that can be achieved through use with a lapping compound - folowed by thorough cleaning and the application of a good lubricant.

Those early Colt Second Generation guns were essentially hand-fitted and shouldn't need anything at all, beyond a fresh oiling - so before you think about anything else - do that, and see how they feel afterwards.

Like Fox Creek Kid said - a helluva lot of good C&WAS guns are damaged and parts ruined because of this sort of thing found on the Internet.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Halfway Creek Charlie]

Both my 2nd gen 1851 Navies needed a bit of polishing and the hammer had a bit of rearward travel when pulling the trigger.
I lightly stoned the innards and that fixed them. One is a 4 digit and one a 5 digit s/n.1972 an 1973 respectively.
I will say the inner parts of the frame were really smooth and NO machine marks at all.

[Dusty Morningwood]

Not to worry.  I am a firm believer in Harry Callihan's maxim: "A man has got to know his limitations."  And I do know mine.  That said, the principle value of a simplistic site like that one is the basic take down and reassemble instructions.  Also, areas to be smoothed.  Clealry not intended as an advanced action work site.  I am an emory cloth man myself, and the Dremel would not have any of the grinding bits attached.  I can handle the buffing wheel pretty good.  Being too lazy to spend too much time, I would just buy lighter springs and put originals aside.  All internal parts have burrs, etc. that a little judicious smoothing will fix without too much trouble.  But thanks for all of the concen.

[Pettifogger]

I only went through the first three pictures.  The guy doesn't know what he is talking about.  He says to remove the three screws holding on the trigger guard and THEN to remove the backstrap screws but to be careful because the mainspring is under pressure!!!  What a numb nuts.  Does anyone NOT know that you remove the backstrap first, remove the mainspring and then the trigger guard?  Then he takes out the hammer first instead of the taking out the bolt/trigger spring, the trigger and bolt and then the hammer.  Didn't bother looking at the rest of the pictures since it was obvious the guy is not a single action gunsmith.

[Dusty Morningwood]

Does anyone NOT know that you remove the backstrap first, remove the mainspring and then the trigger guard?  Then he takes out the hammer first instead of the taking out the bolt/trigger spring, the trigger and bolt and then the hammer. 

I guess I don't! 
OK, off to look for a better site (maybe buy a reference book as well).

[Fox Creek Kid]

Dusty, buy the books recommended by St. George. Both are superb reference works.

[Pettifogger]

I guess I don't! 
OK, off to look for a better site (maybe buy a reference book as well).

Dusty, let me modify my overstated remark.  Anyone that is writing an article on how to tune a particular firearm ought to know how to take it apart.  We were all beginners at one time and I'm sure everyone has launched a spring loaded part across the room at least once.