Machine-stitched clothing - when?

[The Elderly Kid]

Does anyone here know when machine-stitched clothing appeared on the shelves of American stores? Was it before sewing machines became available to ordinary Americans? (gotta Google "Singer"). The textile industry was the first to become industrialized, so I'm wondering if machine-sewn shirts and pants and such were available earlier than most of us think.

[Delmonico]

A lot of it by the early 1850's, some earlier, the sweatshops were not overseas then though.   Lots of young women who did not want to stay on farms worked in them. 

[Delmonico]

I'm going to have do do some remembering, I was reading something about that somewhere about a month or so ago on how the industrial age changed the population dynamics of the US, I've run across that several times in research how a lot of young women moved to cities to escape rural life.   It was while looking for something else, I ran accross it again.  It might have been in the companion book to Ken Burns the west.  I know it shows up in books from time to time, but hasn't been covered that well or I haven't dug deep enough, to many details to little time.

[Quick Fire]

Actually that was something that was covered in my junior high history class in Nebraska, Del. I remember my teacher discussing that subject .

[Delmonico]

I did a quick search using Yahoo Sweat Shops in 19th Century United States and got so many hits I didn't have time to check but one or two.  I think we studied that a bit in school also.  I know I've seen stuff on it on The History Channel from time to time.  There was one big fire in the late 19th or early 20th Century in I believe New York city that killed a lot of young women and started one of the pushes for better labor laws.  Gotta go, closing time.

[The Elderly Kid]

That was the Triangle Shirtwaist Company fire of 1911. 146 workers, mostly teenaged Jewish immigrant girls, died in the fire. The exits were chained shut so workers couldn't sneak out for a break. Many of the modern fire laws as well as labor laws resulted from the scandal. Absurdly, the owners weren't prosecuted. Often it has taken great disasters to wake people up to the need for change. The Titanic sinking brought about most of the modern maritime safety laws.

[Delmonico]

Hit the local library, I bet they would have some books on the subject.  Check out Abigail Adams and Hull House in Chicago.  I know there is lots of information out there, I kind of sideswipe the topic from time to time because it relates to other things I am researching.  I wonder of Chantilly or Kayleen would know some good books on the subject.  I know the ammuniton industry also used a lot of young women because of the fact they worked for low wages and it was unskilled labor.

[Wild Ben Raymond]

Before O. Winchester started making rifles, he owned a shirt making business. Lucky for us he delevoped an  interest in firearms. WBR 

[Delmonico]

Before O. Winchester started making rifles, he owned a shirt making business. Lucky for us he delevoped an  interest in firearms. WBR 

In reality he knew very little about them, he just seen a chance to make money of his investments.  B. Tyler Henry was the mechanic from his shirt factory.  And we got a bit off the topic, but most history has a lot of side stories.

['Monterrey' Jack Brass]

Joss,

Unfortunately the only thing I found that comes even close to what you're looking for (as far as hard data) follows below. My library on this topic is sadly lacking and though I know of other examples that may be helpful I don't have the references with me and will note cite with what I think I remember without knowing where the heck it came from. having said that: Sorry Joss, the following is pretty thin gruel regarding what you are seeking mon ami...

The first bit of info worth mentioning is from G. Kitson Clark's "The Making of Victorian England". This is not, of course, about the U.S. for starters but he does have some interesting information from the English 1851 census. Pg 114 "...with the milliners, dressmakers, seamsters and seamstresses who were 494 men and 340,000 women...the tailors 135,000 men and 18,000 women." Along with all of these numbers he states, in so many words, that mechanization and urbanization was well established at this time. There is no mention how the people so employed in the jobs above did their work, either primarily by hand, or by machine, or by both. I wonder how these roles were defined – factory workers vs private shops and businesses? By the 1881 census the number of persons who called themselves tailors was down to 52,672. Could this drop be result of adapting to more primarily machine-made clothing/time & work savings developments or just a change in how professions were recoded in the 30 years between the census records, or something else? Interesting.

Ready-made clothing with machine sewing must have been available by the 1870s but I should think not always without hand work. I have primary documentation to this effect with an original civilian frock coat I own that is both machine and hand sewn - all button holes and top-stitching, and many cuf details are done by hand. This frock is dated c1875-85 by clothing collector and Watch Dog publisher, Bill Christen. Likely this was very likely bought 'off the shelf' but is not completely machine sewn by any stretch. How about that for a brief and non-specific answer to your question...!

Following are a couple of snippets that might be of interest toward your inquiry:

The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework by M. J. Dillmont (1884)
Pg 32: "From 1755 to 1846 the attempt to produce a sewing machine was carried on [from the work of F. Weisenthal in 1755 with the first patent of a sewing machine] by Thomas Saint J. Duncan, J. A. Dodge, B. Thimonnier, and Wlater Hunt. They each patented various devices and each did something to bring the solution to the problem, but without producing any very practical result. It was not until about 1850, with E. Howe and I. M. Singer, that the new machine, after many vicissitudes, became a practical thing and began gradually to come into general use."

The History of Underclothes by C. Willett and P. Cunningham
Pg 105: "Evidence of machine stitching indicates a date after 1850 – in practice after 1860; but a great many [shirts] continued to be sewn by hand after that date."
Pg 153: "Chemical dyes were introduced in 1860, the first being solfino and magenta, and the latter hailed as 'the queen of colors'. At the same time the sewing machine had arrived, which made possible an abundance of ready-made underclothes in exuberant hues."

YMH&OS,

Brass

['Monterrey' Jack Brass]

Joss,

The Craft Apprentice: From Franklin to the Machine Age in America by E. J. Rorabaugh (Oxford University Press, 1986) will be of interest to you regarding the transition of trades from being primarily hand work to machine and how this change was reflected in society. Though not dealing with sweatshops directly it navigates the circumstances that created them through the decline of the master/apprentice relationship. It is a great read and hits the nail on the head regarding your interests. It has been many years since I've read it and I'm inspired to take it off the book shelf for another go. I think this is definitely a book for you to buy for your library.

Gilgun - yes, I have seen some of her writings but know of nothing similar to her style of articles on the Victorian side of the house. Regarding working conditions & etc, try a search on Amazon for Victorian social reformers or labor movements. Usually such as those wretched socialists would reference working, educational, age, etc conditions as justification for their efforts.  Using this search technique might provide a back-door search method for info that might turn up some stuff. Another might be to get a good overall book on the subject and check out the references cited, journals, diaries, etc – such might even be in reprint somewhere.

Interesting stuff.

YMH&OS,

Brass

[Delmonico]

was made with one of the ladies in Collections.  One of the problems that arose with early sewing machines is that the were of the chain stitch type, this type of sewing is not really suitable for clothing although factories were set up that made clothing  with this process.  The chain stitch sewing machine exists today, anyone who has ever opened a bag of dog food by pulling on the string will understand  why a chain stitch is not suitable for clothing.  One of the problem that arose after the lock stitch machine appeared  was many did not understand the newer machines used a different form of stitch.  This meant that hand stitched clothing was often considered better than machine sewn clothing.

This meant that much of the more expensive clothing was either hand stitched or partly hand stitched and only the less expensive clothing was machined stitched. or fully machine stitched.   This as was explained to us and makes a lot of sense, leads to problems with studying clothing collections, very little of what is in museum collections is the cheaper clothing that was worn on a day to day basis.  This type of clothing was worn till it was either used in quilts or as rags.  The dress clothing is often what survives in collections.  A good example of everyday clothing not surviving is the famous pair of 1888's Levis that the company paid a lot of money to get back, the figure escapes me now, but it was enough to buy  a large quantity of men's suits from the period. 

I need to make arrangements again for a trip down into the climate controlled vaults and do some more study on the clothing down there since it has been about 5-6 years since I've been down there.  Most large museums  and Historical Societies have large study collections  that are not seen by the general public, but most times a serious historian can make an appointment to view these collections, a trip well worth making if it can be arranged.

[Mick Archer]

  Howdy Pards!

 In breif, kinda/sorta, and to over-generalize...

 The Civil War actually was the catalyst for the sewing machine and the rise of "off the rack" garment industry.
 The tremendous demand for federal (and confederate) uniforms saw contracts let as the one federal arsenal at Schuylkill in Philadephia could not even handle 1861 demands.
  And after the initial problem with the Confederate "commutation system" they too went to the arsenal/depot system in 1862.

  Basically, the arsenal/depot system worked like this...  the government purchased bulk fabric, butotns, thread, and pattern cutters at the arsenal cut it out and packaged it into kits.  The kits were distributed to wives and daughters and other women for them to assemble the garments at home.  A piece meal pricing system was in effect, and a tiered hierarchy of skill was employed.
Typically say 12-14 year old girls started on less tailors and simpler garments such as shirts and drawers.  As they progressed, or as a lady' skill warranted, they koved up to fatigue blouses and the more involved and fitted shell jackets and dress (frock) coats.
 Much, most was hand-sewn but if the house had a sewing machine it was machine sewn save for the fine detail work, and button holes (a viable commercial button hole machine woul dnot come into industry use until the late 1880's and 1890's,

 On the other side of things, the government contracted with makers who ran factories and shops.  Since time is money, owners often had their women use sewing machines to save on time and increase produciton.  SAmplings of federal contract uniforms varies from contractor to contract- some are all hand-sewn, some are nearly all machine sewn (save for detail and fine work, and buttt holes) but most is a mix of machine on long seams and hand sewn where the machine did not reach or could not be made to work such as on shirt cuffs.

  We moderns tend to think of the South as lacking "industry," and reenactors often pooh-pooh sewing machines in the South... but here are some 1860-1865 Richmond newspaper clippings for sewing machines:

     These advertisements and articles are extracted JUST from the Richmond Daily Dispatch. All contain references to sewing machines in Richmond between 1860-1865. Of particular interest is the sewing machines manufactured here in Richmond first by Sloats manufacturing and later by Union Manufacturing co. Note that the year 1863 is missing from the original Newspaper archives. Just from these brief advertisements and all to brief articles, we do know that sewing machines were in existence and were being used in the construction of Military clothing.
   
   Nov. 1, 1860

List of Premiums
awarded at the Seventh Annual exhibition of the VirginiaMechanics' Institute, which closed on the night of the 31stOct.,1860.

Class no. 5.-- Sewing Machines .
To Wheeler & Wilson's Sewing Machines , Silver Medal.
To the Lester Manufacturing Company, for Sewing Machines , First-Class Diploma.
To Grover & Baker's Sewing Machines, First Class Diploma


   Nov. 2, 1860

The Singer Sewing Machines.
The marked and ever extended popularity of Singer's Sewing Machines , both in America and Europe, is such as best to establish their superiority over all others in the market. Sewing Machines , so called, may be bought, it is true, for a smaller amount of dollars, but it is mistaken economy to invest anything in a worthless or unreliable article, and those who will do so must abides the consequences.
Singer's New Family Machines.
In order to place the very best Family Machines in the world within the reach of all, we have reduced our Letter A, or transverse Shuttle Machines, beautifully ornamented, to Fifty Dollars.
Singer's No. 1 and 2 Standard Shuttle Machines,
Both of very general application and capacity, and popular both in the family and the manufactory. Prices reduced respectively from $135 and $150 to $90 and $100.
Singer's No. 3 Standard Shuttle Machine,
For carriage-makers and heavy leather work. Price, complete, $125.
Also, to complete the list, an entirely new article, unequaled for manufacturing purposes, noiseless, rapid, and capable of
any kind of work. Price, including iron stand and drawers, $110, cheaper at that, in view of its value, than the machines of any other maker as a gift.
All of Singer's Machines make the interlocked stitch with two threads, which is the best stitch known. Every person desiring to procure full and reliable information about Sewing Machines, their sizes, prices, working capacities, and the best method of purchasing; can obtain it by sending for a copy of "I. M. Singer & Co.'s Gazette," which is a beautiful pictorial paper, entirely devoted to the subject. It will be supplied gratis.
Needles, Thread, Cottons, Silk, and all necessary articles used with Sewing Machines, kept constantly on hand for sale. Also, a practical machinist, who is ever ready to attend on our customers, if required.
Messrs. Singer & Co.'S office being conducted on the most thorough business principles, by an entirely new set of hands, we feel confident of doing our share of the business, as we have always done heretofore. I. M. Singer & Co.,
240 Main street, Richmond.
B. Trott. Agent.

   Nov. 3, 1860

Close of the Fair.
The seventh annual exhibition of the Virginia Mechanics' Institute closed on Wednesday night, after being open to the public for nearly three weeks. Taking the exhibition in all its variety of phases, we are confident it was one of the most successful the Institute has ever held. The mechanical and manufacturing department, we are quite sure, has never been equalled in this city, and is the strongest evidence that the Institute, by its admirable schools, is working a glorious revolution in this section of the South. As evidence of this, we need only refer to the elegant steam fire engine, the saw cleaner and sharpener, the Union press for pressing earth and fire coal, the elegant variety of saws of every kind, of all patterns of files, of beautiful shoes and boots, of fine specimens of turners', carpenters' and cabinet work, as well as of lock making, silver plating, book-binding and ruling, coopering, sewing machines, etc., all of the highest grade of excellence, and of home manufacture. At the close of the Fair, premiums were awarded in all the various classes, in the publication of which some few errors were made, and which we now correct.
Geo. Watt & Co. were awarded a certificate of silver medal for continued superiority in plows.
P. H. Starke was awarded a silver medal for his Southern plow.
A. P. Routt, of Gordonsville, was awarded a certificate of a silver medal for his corn planter and drain plow.
During the exhibition an old diamond ring, dated 1735, a $10 gold piece dated 1795, and an embroidered shirt, with brilliant studs, were stolen from the cases, for the recovery of which a reward of $50 has been offered. For the return of the ring or the gold piece. $20 will be paid and no questions asked; and for the return of the shirt and buttons $10 will be paid. As the old coin and ring will probably be offered for sale, it is hoped they may yet be restored to their owners. The coin is so marked that it can readily be recognized.

   Nov. 3, 1860

Wheeler & Wilson's Sewing Machines!
Have Won the highest Premiums Ap the United StatesAgricultural Fair.
Maine, New York, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, Vermont, New Jersey, Mississippi, Indians, Michigan, Connecticut, Pennsylvania, Missouri, Illinois, Wisconsin, and California State Fairs.
also, at the Fairs of the
American Institute New York.
Franklin InstitutePhiladelphia.
Mechanics' InstituteSan Francisco.
MarylandMechanics' InstituteBaltimore.
Vs. Mechanics' InstituteRichmond.
Kentucky InstituteLouisville.
Mechanics' Association Boston.
Mechanics' Association Cincinnati.
Mechanical AssociationSt. Louis.
Metropolitan Mechanics' InstituteWashington.
Virginia Office and Sales Rooms.
227 Main St, Richmond.

   Nov. 5, 1860

The Prince of Wales Sewing Machines and the Royal Family.
The Prince and his suite left Portland for home last Saturday. "God save the Queen" and the "Queen's Own." Among the few valuables and curiosities collected by the Prince and suite during their visit to the Provinces and the States, we learn there were two of Grover & Baker's Family Sewing Machines, which the Marquis and Marchioness of Chandos selected in propria persona, at the sales rooms of the above-named enterprising firm. Verily, this "iron needle-woman" is a blessing to them that lay hold upon her, and happy is every one that retaineth her.

   Nov. 6, 1860

Exports Coastwise.
To New York.--By Steamers.--231 hhds leaf tobacco, 10,479 pkgs. manufactured tobacco, 295 bbls. flour, 235 pkgs. mdze., 240 bales domestics, 1 keg gold 14 bbls. dried fruit. 41 bbls. liquor, 200 pkgs. sulphur water, 233 pkgs. smoking tobacco, 91 bags roots, 8 boxes boxes alum water, 75 muskets, flaxseed, 7 kegs butter, 29 sewing machines . 5 pkgs wine, 2 boxes pipe stems, 12 bbls. grease. 17 boxes beeswax, 84 empty barrels.
To Philadelphia--By Steamers.--14 hhds. leaf tobacco, 3,217 pkgs. manufactured tobacco, 60 pkgs. mdze., empty barrels, kegs and hogsheads, 87 bbls. tar, 21 bags roots, 27 bbls. liquor, 3 bbls. lard, 7 hhds. bacon, 2 hhds. sheepskins, 57 bales cotton 5 bbls. apples, 4 boxes oil, 8 kegs butter, 58 rags, 2 bbls. beeswax, 12 bags wool, 269 bags dried fruit, 205 bags flaxseed, 8 bbls. old iron, 3 sewing machines. 2 bbls. alum water.

   Nov. 10, 1860

Sewing Machines.
Sloat's celebrated Elliptic Lock stitch Sewing Machines are now manufactured by the Union manufacturing Company,
(Late Lester manufacturing Company,) of Richmond, Va., and are for sale at store no. 231 Main street. These Machines, of home manufacture, are warranted the best in use. Please call and examine them.

   Nov. 23, 1860

Wheeler & Wilson's
Sewing Machines With new improvements, at reduced prices. The Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Company having gained all their suits at law with infringing manufacturers of Sewing Machines , propose that the public shall be benefited thereby, and have accordingly reduced the prices of their Sewing Machines. After this date they will be sold at rates that will pay a fair profit on the cost of manufacture, capital invested, and expense of making sales — such prices as will enable them to make first-class Machines and, as heretofore, guarantee them in every particular.
Needles, Silk. &c., at reduced prices
Office and Salesroom 227 Main street. Richmond, Va.

   Nov. 23, 1860

Singer's no. 3 Standard Shuttle Machine,
For carriage-makers and heavy leather work. Price, complete, $125. Also, to complete the list, an entirely new article, unequaled for manufacturing purposes, noiseless, rapid, and capable of any kind of work. Price, including iron stand and drawers, $110, cheaper at that, in view of its value, than the machines of any other maker as a gift. All of Singer's Machines make the interlocked [ stich ] with two threads, which is the best stitch known. Every person desiring to procure full and reliable information about Sewing Machines , their sizes, prices, working capacities, and thebest method of purchasing, can obtain it by sending for a copy of "I. M. Singer & Co.'s Gazette," which is a beautiful pictorial paper, entirely devoted to the subject. It will be supplied gratis. Needles, Thread, Cottons Silk, and all necessary articles used with Sewing Machines , kept constantly on hand for sale.

Also, a practical machinist, who is ever ready to attend on our customers, if required. Messrs. Singer & Co.'S office being conducted on the most thorough business principles, by an entirely new set of hands, we feel confident of doing our share of the business, as we have always done heretofore. I. M. Singer & Co.,
240 Main street, Richmond.
B. Trott. Agent.

   Nov. 28, 1860

The "Good Time" come!
It is not important to the public that Shuttle Sewing Machines. or Rotary Hook and Bobbin are reduced in price, but the announcement that the Grover & Haker Machine, legal and genuine, is now within the reach of all, will delight thousands of families throughout the land. Welcome and long desired deliverance has come at last from fastening unfastened ends of "Locked-seams" that are anything but locked — rewinding bobbins, adjusting pads, and repairing the weekly ravages of the wash tub on these delectable seams. In buying, be sure the machine you select sews from two spools, and is licensed to make the Grover & Baker stitch. No other stitch will stand washing

   Nov. 30, 1860

We are glad to see that the other manufacturers of high-priced Sewing Machines are following the lead of the Wheeler & Wilson Company in the reduction of prices. Since the infringers have been compelled to pay the license to the owners of the patents, or stop making Machines, the legal manufacturers are enabled to reduce their prices so much that we may now expect that between the Loop stitches and Lock stitches, with all the Double Loops and Treble Locks, Young America will be clothed in garments that will stand the ravages of wash tubs, smoothing irons and times itself.

For the benefit of the interested, we give below a table showing the number of Machines made by the two principal companies. This is from a statement made under oath in the Howe Extension case, and can be relied on. From this table it will be seen that the Wheeler & Wilson Company had, in November, 1859, made and sold more than thirty-eight thousand Machines. Mr. Howe's books now show that they have made near 70,000 Machines. If the gain by other makers has been as great in the last year, there is probably, at the present time, one hundred and fifty thousand Sewing Machines in use, nearly every one of which has been sold in the past seven years. Connected, as they are, with the comfort of families, and a priceless luxury both to the overburdened mechanics' wife and the dawdling lady of fashion. It is becoming as much a matter of necessity as the gridiron or tea-kettle — a piece of furniture, in fact, without which no family can get along. The time is coming when even the poorest family will have one of these little iron and steel laborers, singing with its low and pleasant tones the pleasant song of the shirt. The rate of progress to that time seems to be wonderful.
Wheeler & Wilson. 1853. 1854. 1855. 1856. 1857. 1858. 1859. total.
799 956 1,171 2,210 4,591 7,978 21,306 38,991
Grover & Baker. 657 2,034 1,145 1,952 3,650 5,070 10,280 24,813
all others. 1,073 1,479 1,197 3,061 4,442 4,541 14,622 30,450
2,509 4,469 3,513 7,223 12,713 17,589 46,243 94,249

Complimentary Testimonial.
It is with infinite delight we note the tender of a benefit to the inestimable lady, the charming vocalist, and inimitable
actress. Miss Caroline M. Richings. As we might have readily conjectured, our citizens could not allow her to leave us
without some parting assurance of their profound admiration of her rare and splendid talents 'Tis rarely the case we find the stage graced alike with high mental culture, the perfection of art, and the loveliness of Nature. In Miss Richings.--our
American Miss Richings.--do we find this combination, and it is with greatest pride we acknowledge, and pay tribute to her worth. Let her numerous friends and admirers remember this is her benefit, her last benefit, this season. Secure your seats early, and give her that reception her superiority ought to claim.

   Dec. 5, 1860

Sewing Machines.
Sloat's celebrated Elliptic Loch Stitch
Sewing Machines are now manufactured by the Union Manufacturing Company (Late Lester Manufacturing Company,) Of Richmond, Va., And are for sale at store.
No. 231 Main street.
These Machines; of home manufacture, are warranted the best in use. please call and examine them
top  

   Dec. 7, 1860

Coastwise Exports in November.
To New York--By Steamers.--827 hhds tobacco, 8,828 pkgs. manufactured tobacco, 54 pkgs. smoking tobacco, 739 bbls. flour, 177 pkgs. mdse., 254 bales domestics, 18 boxes mineral water, 8 bbls, grease, 15 bbls, apples, 49 bbls, chestnuts, 114 sewing machines, 64 boxes oil, 5 kegs butter, 32 bbls, liquor, 6 bundles steel, 8 pkgs. wax, 3 boxes circular saws.
top  

   Dec. 8, 1860

Richmond Enterprises
Within the past year some very remarkable enterprises have been undertaken in this city, which have been from time to time noticed in this paper. One which has very recently gone into operation is the Sugar Refinery, built by Capt. Chas. Y.
Morriss, one of our most public spirited as well as enterprising citizens.

The project is his own in every respect, and has been completed and put into active and, we doubt not, successful operation by his own means and active energies. The establishment is planned on a large scale, and with a view to yet further extension, as the demands of trade may require. The refined sugars already turned out by it give the most perfect satisfaction, and are surpassed in quality by none in the market. We consider the owner of this manufactory a real public benefactor. If a few more of our men of means would emulate his good example, this city would grow much more rapidly in wealth and power.

We commend the Richmond refined sugars to the friends of home industry at the South, and trust that the manufacturer will find himself nobly sustained in his enterprise. He will certainly be so encouraged if there is any sincerity in Southern professions.In the department of woolen manufactures there has been recently much done.

The Crenshaw Woolen Manufacturing Company commenced operations some time since, and has been throwing into market some admirable specimens of its fabrics. We notice, especially, very superb shawls, blankets, and fine cassimere. The Manchester Cotton and Woolen Manufactory has gone earnestly into the manufactory of coarse woolens for servants' clothing, which are much esteemed and in demand. These two establishments are giving occupation to a great many hands, and in the matter of the trade and business of the city, are most valuable auxiliaries.
The Union Manufacturing Company is another large concern, which promises to be of great benefit to Richmond. It manufactures sewing machines, of approved and popular styles, in the most admirable manner, and at cheap prices. It also makes planing machines of an improved pattern, and steam engines, and among the last named a style of small engine that is very useful. This establishment was one of the effects of the John Brown raid. It was gotten up with a large capital — planned on a liberal scale, and has gone into operation with a great deal of spirit — and thus far with admirable success. The company recently effected a favorable arrangement with Mr. Sloat, of Philadelphia, who had matured a beautiful and excellent machine, and that gentleman has removed his entire force to Richmond, adding it, and his own ingenuity and skill, and energy in business, to the previous means and capabilities of the company. Thus we have an establishment of great capacity, and one that is destined to contribute much to the growth of Richmond, as well as Southern manufacturing independence. A new manufactory has been added to the list in our city, in the railroad car-spring manufactory, which recently commenced operations at the Tredegar Foundry. This manufactory makes those vulcanized India car-springs, which are so popular. It is needless to repeat what we have so often said of our iron foundries, steam and locomotive works, &c. Anderson & Co.'s rolling mills, railroad spike factory, (whose reputation is national, and which has supplied almost the entire South for years with spikes, as has the Archer foundry with railroad chairs,) their locomotive and steam engine works; Talbott's and Rham's extensive foundries, Pae & Sampson's do., Hunter & Co.'s foundry and steel works, and Jordan, Winn & Co.'s iron works. These, with others that might be named, constitute a manufacturing power in various departments of iron work, including all descriptions of railroad work, cannon and ball casting, &c., of which we may be justly proud.
The times are now oppressive, and our manufactories are suffering to some extent; but as soon as the troubles in which we are now involved pass by — whatever be their termination --this city will enter the field with a manufacturing energy and success that will astonish her warmest and most sanguine friends.

   Dec. 14, 1860

Patents were issued last week to Frederick Hayer, of Richmond, Va, for improvement in sewing machines

   More to follow....

      Mick Archer

[Mick Archer]

  Howdy Pards! 

   Jan. 29, 1861

Wheeler & Wilson's Sewing Machines.
E. H. Craige, Ag't, 227 Main street, Richmond,
E. H. Craige, Ag't, 49 ½ Sycamore st., Petersburg,
E. H. Craige, Ag't, Johnson's Hall, Norfolk.
[Extract from the Report of Judges at Fair of Va. Mechanics' Institute, 1860.]
"No. 1. The Wheeler & Wilson Machine makes what is popularly called the lock stitch, and in view of the economy of thread required for said stitch, its elasticity, strength and beauty of appearance, the committee prefer it for the practical
purposes of sewing."
"We find in this Machine simplicity — all parts being particularly adapted to each other, and to the office which they
perform, resulting in a freedom from derangement and need for repairs, with an ease of adjustment not attained in the more complicated contrivances. In our examination we find in Wheeler & Wilson's Machines these advantages over all others; 1st. Its bearing surfaces and parts having a reciprocating motion are very light, and the more rapid motions are rotary and continuous, thus economizing both time and power. 2d. One tension, which is arranged with peculiar simplicity and perfection, controls both threads. 3d. The simple manner of controlling the loop of the needle and thread, dispenses with the use of take-up, so objectionable in other machines."

   Feb. 4, 1861

To the Working men.
Listen! Let us ask you a few practical questions: Who gives Messrs. Rham, Talbot.Archer and Anderson orders for machinery, and thus enables them to pay you your wages? The South--the Railroad Presidents, the Sugar Planters and Cotton Growers of the South. Where would you be, and where would the manufactures of Richmond be, without the patronage of the South? You, in this monetary crisis, would now be idle on the streets, and Richmond lose her position as the manufacturing city of the South. Do our manufacturers get any orders from the North? Why did the Lester Sewing Machine establishment locate itself in this Southern town? Above all, what will be the effect upon the minds of Southern men, in Louisiana, Georgia. Alabama, &c., when they see submissionists elected from a city whose very existence is dependent upon Southern traffic and Southern patronage? Ponder on these things, and you cannot fail to appreciate and act upon your honest convictions. Anvil.
Are not the Northern manufacturers your rivals and competitors?

   Jan. 31, 1861

Wilcox & Gibbs' Sewing Machine.
The highest premium awarded at the Virginia State Fair, Oct. 1860, as the best Machine for general use.These celebrated Machines; also, the Sloat and Ladd, Webster & Co.'S Sewing Machines, are for sale by J. A. Belvin.
Belvin's Block, 12th and Governor streets.

   Feb. 21, 1861

Encourage domestic industry.
A number of the ladies who daily congregate in the hall of the Convention have inaugurated a plan by which they pass away the hours, previous to the commencement of the proceedings, apparently quite pleasantly, and we doubt not profitably. That is, they take their sewing or knitting, seat themselves in a domestic way, and go to work for the morning, with no visible concern for what is passing around them. Now, we go in strong for the encouragement of industry, especially among the ladies, and therefore respectfully suggest that a dozen sewing machines be purchased by the Commonwealth and placed in the Hall, with a view to the promotion of an object so laudable. The ladies who are familiar with their manipulation, could work away on them from 8 o'clock in the morning, the hour at which they generally assemble, until 12 o'clock, when the President's hammer would give the signal to cease working; and, in the meantime, if any of the members wanted to get their handkerchiefs hemmed, or any little job of that sort, the busy operators would be ready to accommodate them. Encourage domestic industry.

   April 23, 1861

Patriotic women.
--The ladies of the Second Baptist Church and congregation met yesterday morning, and unanimously resolved to offer their services to the Governor, for the manufacture of military uniforms, bandages, lint, &c., and some of them to act as nurses, whenever and wherever required. They have a force sufficient, with the aid of the sewing machines owned by them, to make uniforms for a company of one hundred soldiers in twenty-four hours. An order will be given them to-morrow, for one hundred uniforms for one of the companies just organized in this city. All honor to these patriotic women. May their noble example be imitated by all the daughters of Virginia!

   May 17, 1861

Correspondence of the Richmond Dispatch.
Affairs at the University.
University of Virginia, May 14th, 1861.
You would be surprised to see how quietly and regularly matters are going on here, in spite of all the deeply-felt excitement in every boart. It reflects much credit on the citizens of this place and the surrounding country.--The Professors continue their lectures to small but attentive and zealous audiences. At night, they meet in the Museum to drill in company, under command of Mr. Schele DeVeres, a former officer of the Russian Army, who has seen some service, and ought to be employed by the State in a position where he could be more useful. It is a touching sight to see in the ranks of the University Guard, dressed in blue flannel hunting shirts, with black felt hats, the venerable form of a veteran who has not borne arms since he shouldered a musket in the war, forty-five years ago, and the distinguished Chairman of the Faculty standing by the side of his second son.
The two companies of students have been reduced to small squads, hundreds having by this time engaged in the ranks of our own volunteers or the Confederate Army. It is almost painful to see amidst such scenes as are now witnessed at the University, hearty men at work making an artificial lake, and planting roses and lilies on its banks ! The country needs every arm and every dollar that can be spared.
Charlottesville is filled with troops from this and the adjoining counties. The Scottsville company seems to possess an
unusually fine body of men, and they and the Howardsville soldiers do great honor to the county. They are quartered at the Delavan House. At the Court-House over 40 ladies are daily busy making uniforms, tents, knapsacks — in fact, everything that is needed for the army. They have nine sewing machines, and their zeal and industry are remarkable, even in the midst of the general excitement, when all vie with each other who can do the most for the Old Commonwealth. Two Infantry companies and one very superior troop of Cavalry having lately left us, the town would be deserted but for the presence of many strangers who have left Alexandria or your city to take refuge with us; among these the venerable form of Judge Wayne, of the Supreme Court, attracts most attention. Others have found homes in the neighborhood. At the beautiful residence of Mr. Alexander Rives, our Senator, a large company is brilliantly entertained in spite of his recent affliction. He is a true Virginian in his large-hearted hospitality, and patriots are doubly glad to see this spirit survive among our rich men, as it predicates well for the pecuniary aid they can render the State, now that she needs their assistance.
J. R. M.

   May 25, 1861

Correspondence of the Richmond Dispatch. affairs in Rockingham. Harrisonburg, May 23, 1861.
As your correspondent "Pen" is at the post of duty and honor, and you have had no news from this point for several days, I will give you, to the best of my ability, the news of the town.
The Cavalry company have just left, having received orders on Tuesday. They are commanded by Capt. Tom Yancey, of this town, a very able and facetious lawyer and State's Attorney. Col. Gray addressed them in his usual flowery style. Capt. Yancey, in his address, speaking of his command, said "some are sick and have good excuse, but for the other men who are not present, we leave them in the care of the ladies of Rockingham, whom I feel assured will protect them and take care that they do not get hurt.
Old Rockingham has done exceedingly well, sending over 800 men to the field. Two of the strongest "Union men" in the
Convention were her representatives.
Last Monday an affray took place at Dayton, in which Mr. Rhoer had his skull badly injured. He is an ardent Secessionist, was in his store conversing on the all-engrossing theme, and in speaking of some men, remarked, "they are only those who have been egged. " A man, named Blakemore, having gone through that interesting process, took the remark as personal, picked up a heavy weight and threw it at Mr. R. The man was brought here and committed to jail.
Two men were killed the other night, by the cars running over them at Edinburg, Shenandoah.
The ladies are still busily engaged at the Hall. They had six sewing machines at work yesterday, finishing the tents for the
Cavalry.Four Confederate flags are flying before me, two of them on poles 100 feet high.
De Leon.

   June 26, 1861

Wheeler & Wilson.
--Certain parties rejoicing in the above names have made independent fortunes out of the Southern people by establishing
agencies in our various cities, and selling their sewing machines at exorbitant rates. Allusion has been made in the
Dispatch to the fact that the firm of Wheeler & Wilson had presented flags to the New York, Pennsylvania and Connecticut Regiments. With the proverbial cuteness of such persons, this may have been done as an advertisement. Even thus considered, it betrays a hostility to the South that should not go unrebuked. Wheeler & Wilson have an office for the sale of their machines in this city, next to Mr. Samuel. D. Denoon's bell and brass foundry. A communication from a well known citizen addressed to the editors of the Dispatch, alluding to Wheeler & Wilson, says:"The flag referred to in your paper of the 21st inst. as presented by Wheeler & Wilson, of New York, is now on the soil of Virginia, in the hands of the invading foe; and the office of Wheeler & Wilson is on Main street in the city of Richmond, and their representative has been twice within six weeks to New York — of course for the sole benefit of the South. J. W. D."
In addition to the above, the reporter is informed by Mr. Alfred Inloes, formerly Alderman for Jefferson Ward, that E. H.
Craige, the Richmond agent of the pestiferous creatures above named, has been at least one time before Mayor Mayo, on
suspicion of hostility to the South. The reporter does not know Mr. Craige's sentiments, but he thinks he would bear being
carried before the Mayor once more. Let the authorities of the Confederate Government confiscate the sewing machines owned by Wheeler & Wilson in Craige's keeping, as contraband of war.The reporter does not know Mr. Craige personally, and therefore cannot be accused of wishing to injure him socially or in his business relations. Any hurt that his position enables him to inflict on Wheeler & Wilson, or their business, is praiseworthy to the extent that one is justifiable in discomfiting an enemy of the realm.

   July 1, 1861

Admitted to Bail.
--The case of Mr. Edw'd. H. Craige, who had been arrested as a person inimical to the rights and interests of Virginia, was called before the Mayor on Saturday, when sundry witnesses testified. No circumstance was brought to light tending to criminate him, though the examination was continued till Tuesday, in order to allow the production of two Commonwealth's witnesses whose evidence was deemed important. It indue to Mr. Craige who has been conducting business here in selling sewing machines for several years past, to say, that he proved a most unacceptionable character, both as a citizen and man of business. Andrew Johnston attorney at law; Wm. H. Benson, tailor; A. Bargamin, Jr., Dr. John P. Little, James D. Brown, Wm. Booth, N. C. Barton and others, testified in his behalf, and the first-named entered himself as surety ($500) for the appearance of Mr. C. at the next examination. It will sometimes happen that in the endeavor to ferret out and expose enemies of the South. (of whom there are too many in our midst,) cases of individual hardship and injustice (by reason of misdirected suspicion) will arise.

   July 10, 1861

Local Matters Ready for Action
About three cents' worth of coarse cotton half a cent's worth of thread, one brass button, and two minutes use of a Wheeler & Wilson sewing-machine will furnish a soldier' haversack that sells in this city now for one dollar. Good profit.

   Aug. 2, 1861

Subscriptions for the sick and wounded.
Messrs. Editors:--Please acknowledge through your paper the following subscriptions to the sick and wounded soldiers:
Citizens of Newbern, N. C. through Lewis Webb, $250. Also, bags containing lint, sage, &c.
From ladies of Newbern, N. C., through Lewis Webb, $69. Also, one bag sage.
Charles Harris, of Norfolk, $50.
E. H. Craige, agent for Wheeler & Wilson's sewing machines, $100.
Isaac Walker,
Chairman of Committee on Collections, to whom collections will be sent

   Aug. 29,1861

More about Federal Arrests
The following is from a Philadelphia letter, dated Aug. 24:
Deputy Marshal Sharkey arrested an inventor and mechanic, named Samuel Alken, to-day, the director of the Richmond (Va.) Armory. Alken was formerly a resident of Philadelphia, in the employ of Sloat & Co., sewing-machine manufacturers. The firm transgressed upon patent rights, and injunctions and judgments being obtained against them from every quarter, they moved to Richmond, taking with them upwards of a hundred Northern mechanics, and began to make cartridges and fire-arms for the Confederate Government. Most of the mechanics so seduced have returned to the North; but Alken, who manifested considerable humanity and business tact, remained, and was sent to Philadelphia one week ago, to purchase raw material and seduce new operatives to Richmond. Papers found in his possession have fully satisfied the authorities of his treason. He will go to Fort Lafayette to-night.

   Sept. 25, 1861

Telegraphic Extensions.
The State has been pretty well spanned by the telegraph wire, and it will not be long ere every division of the army in Virginia will be in immediate communication with the Capital. With the army on the Potomac, on the Peninsula, and at Norfolk, the electric wires have served a most useful purpose, and they are now being extended towards the army in the West; a consummation which has been devoutly wished. Not only this, but field telegraphs are stationed at convenient localities, and our ingenious electricians will lay wires for submarine operations, if they shall be found necessary. In this connection we may state a fact which shows how we are getting along in manufactures hitherto claimed exclusively by the North. The first complete set of telegraphic instruments ever made in Virginia has been completed at the sewing-machine factory on Cary street, and is now in operation at the Danville depot, and several more have been ordered from the same establishment.

   Nov. 8, 1861

Illustrations of Social Morality
Among the cases brought to the Mayor's notice yesterday was one in which James W. F. Banks was charged with uttering violent threats against Sophrona Williams. These persons came from North Carolina, and lived together here for some time, without having put them selves to the trouble and expense of the matrimonial ceremony; but latterly they separated, and Sophrona Williams took to manipulating a sewing-machine for a livelihood. Jealousy, however, haunted the imagination of Banks, and in his mental perturbation he gave utterance to scandalous language whenever opportunity was afforded. He moreover sent a very insulting note to his retired partner, which said, among other things, "keep out of my site, or I will make your back crack with a cowhide in the streets." There were other circumstances unnecessary to quote, but the result of the matter was that Banks was required to give security in $150 to keep the peace, and the Mayor was half inclined to deal harshly with the woman for her previous misconduct. The second "illustration" was that of Thomas Kenzie and Hammet Bowfort, who so forgot the rules of decency as to walk with two negro wenches in the public streets. The men were required to give security for their future good behavior, and the girls sent to the whipping post

   Dec.9, 1861

Notice — Singer's Sewing Machine for sale
One of Singer's last patent, straight-needle, perpendicular-action Sewing Machines, in a walnut case, containing drawers,
&c., all complete, with extra springs; suitable for a manufactory, or home use; quite new and perfect. Sold because the owner has not sufficient employment for it. It can be seen at 132 Main street up stairs.

   Mick Archer

[Mick Archer]

  Howdy Pards! 

  Feb. 10, 1862

Wheeler & Wilson Sewing Machines
Wheeler & Wilson's Sewing Machines repaired and kept in order.Needles and Silk on hand.Fine Tucking and Family Sewing done by Miss S. Lyons, No. 144 Main street, over the store, opposite Samuel. M. Price's.
Orders sent promptly attended to. ja 18--3m

   April 5, 1862
For sale
One of Sloat's Eliptic Sewing Machines.Is in perfect order, and has been used about six months. Can be seen at the Jewelry store ofC. D. Walter,
195 Broad street.

   April 15, 1862

Manufactures in the South.
A correspondent of De Bow's Review for March and April gives a gratifying account of the increase of manufactures in the South since the beginning of the war. Besides those in our own city, to which we have before referred, and the variety and extent of which would surprise many of our own readers, if set before them in detail, other towns are mentioned by the correspondent, in Virginia and the South, a synopses of which we make as follows:
In Lynchburg one envelope factory has been established, one for the manufacture of blacking, and one for making lucifer
matches. The manufacture of hats and caps is being carried on quite extensively. Several tanneries have been established in the neighborhood.
In Abingdon, the salt works are manufacturing about two thousand bushels of salt every twenty- four hours, and are putting up furnaces to increase the amount.
Across the Tennessee line, about fifteen miles south, they have several iron forges, with a great abundance of the best are, and a furnace, where they make a large amount of castings and pig iron.
In Staunton and in Madison county, boot and shoes factories have been established, which have Government contracts for shoes.
There are eight yards in Louisa county, whare hides are tanned into leather. The increase of this branch of business will be
about double that of former years.
In Fincastle a furnace for the manufacture of iron, which had ceased before the war, has been revived.
In Albemarle, the cotton and woolen factories, as in other localities, have not increased in consequence of the difficulties
in the transportation of wool and cotton. Two sword manufactories have been established. There are various tanneries and saddle and harness making establishments, and an agricultural machinist. A manufactory of oil-cloth will soon be established.
In Portsmouth, there is an extensive foundry, originally designed for the building of steam marine or other engines upon a
large scale. It was at this establishment that the machinery of the United Statessteamer Powhatan was built. A revolving
pistol has been invented in Portsmouth since the beginning of the war, which is pronounced by judges to be superior to the
Colt pistol, and also an invention for rifling cannon, which has been successfully applied in the Navy-Yard. There is an
extensive sash, door, and blind factory. The Union Car Works of Portsmouth, whose regular business has been diminished by the war, are now engaged in building gun-carriages, wagons, wheel-barrows, camp-stools, tent-poles and pins, sabre-bayonets and bowie-knives, and other implements of war.
In our neighboring Commonwealth, North Carolina, there has been an equal revival of manufacturing industry. In Wilmington the following articles are noticed, which were formerly received from the North: Ashes, candles, lamp oils, salt, (formerly supplied from the West Indies and England,) and cutlery. Peanut oil is supplied by mills established since the commencement of the war, and rosin oil manufactured to a considerable extent. The manufacture of salt by evaporation or boiling is largely on the increase.
In Charlotte county, in addition to the cotton, woolen, and other manufactories, formerly existing, an establishment for the
manufacture of linseed or flax seed oil, with a capacity to turn out five hundred gallons per day, will be started, and znother for the manufacture of cotton-seed oil will commence operations in a few weeks. The powder mill will anufacture a thousand pounds per day, with a capacity to double the quantity.
In Greensboro', various establishments have sprung up for the manufacture of guns, pistols, saddles, shoes, barrels, drums, gashes, sewing machines, &c., which promise to be remunerative to those engaged in the enterprise.
In Beaufort, the manufacture of salt has been begun on a small scale. The impression is that it can be made a profitable business at one dollar a bushel, and at much less if the war would continue for a term of years.
In Monroe the domestic jeans and linsey cloth establishments have increased their operations. Pistols and bowie-knives have been manufactured.
In Carthage, the entire people, it is said, with unexampled energy, have recurred to the primeval principles and custom of
industry, economy, and frugality, which characterized our ancestors for many years subsequent to the wars of '76 and '12. The men have embarked industriously in making plows, wagons, shoes, tools, and utensils of wood and iron of every description for domestic purposes; every farmer is putting down his trough or vat for canning leather. The gun and rifle makers have resumed their wotted art, gone into their shops, forging out barrels, and fixing them up, in readiness for service. In one neighborhood shoe-pegs are being made by machinery in quantities sufficient to meet the demands of the South. In fine, the people are determined scrupulously to live independent of the North, as they are evidencing by their handy inventions. The women, too, animated with becoming zeal and resolution to sustain our glorious cause, have put aside their silks, their calicoes, their head-dresses, and covered up their pianos, and have substituted the wheel, the cards, the loom, and are fostering a commendable spirit of emulation in making the largest number of yards, and the neatest patterns of checks and stripes for themselves and their little ones, and the substantial jeans to clothe their husbands, their sons, and their brothers in the army, and then for gratuitous distribution to any needy soldiers. They are without distinction of circle or property, all united in constant and useful engagements in getting up domestics of every kind to add to their comforts at home and supply our army with blankets, clothing, and neat caps. Defend us with your bayonets, and we will sustain you with our needles, is the watchword with them.
In Rockingham county, cotton yarn, cotton cloth of various kinds, and woolen goods, suited to the necessities of the army, are being manufactured.
In Spartanburg and Laurens, S. C., great manufacturing enterprise has been exhibited. In the latter county, it is mentioned,
in additional of the regular branches of manufactures, the ladies generally are making a great quantity of most excellent
cloth, of various descriptions, for men's wear, children, negroes, and even for themselves, which are now taking the places
of fine delaines and silks.--The ladies in one battalion in that district recently furnished for the uniforms of one company
of volunteers three hundred and fifty yards of very nice jeans, five hundred yards of flannel, and three hundred and fifty
pairs of socks, in a very short time, made upon the old-fashioned band looms, which are numerous in that county--one in
almost every family — and some of the cloth, for service, is said to be equal, if not superior, to the best bread cloth. In
Chester every household is said to have become a manufacturing establishment. This is a picture, more or less, of the whole South. These facts are most gratifying and encouraging; for unless we learn to manufacture for ourselves, we shall never become independent in reality, as well as in name, of the murderers and fiends who are seeking our destruction.

   July 7, 1862

Future days.
by Redwood & Keach, Aucts, [54 Main street.]
New and Second Hand Furniture.--
400 pair Wood Shoes, assorted;
200 lbs. Shoe Thread;
300 lbs. Bacon Sides;
A large assortment of Crockery and Glassware;
2 large Show-Cases and Counters;
2 Sewing Machines;
Dry Goods, Clothing, &c.,
At auction, on Tuesday, July 8th, commencing at 10 o'clock, at store.
Redwood & Keach, Auctioneers

   Sept. 8, 1862

Fine cavalry Boots, Shoes.
Received this day, at Belvin's Sewing-Machine Rooms, a large stock of English Cavalry Boots, heavy bottoms, well sewed. This is the best Boot ever offered for service. Several hundred pairs of high-quarter English Shoes, sewed, suitable for soldiers, citizens, or servants, with a large variety of Congress Galters, for ladies and gentlemen, direct from Europe. Also, a large stock of misses' and children's, and servants'shoes, on hand. We are determined to keep the best Goods that can be had and sell at the lowest price possible. Store Belvin's Block, on 12th street. Citizens are politely invited to call.

   May 9, 1864

By. Wm. H. Fowle, Sons & co, Aucts.
Auction sale.--On Tuesday, 10th inst, at 10 o'clock, we shall sell, to close consignments, a large and varied assortment of
goods, as follows:
1000 packages manufactured tobacco
5000 do smoking tobacco
5000 genuine Havana cigars, warranted of direct importation
After which--
1000 yds brown domestics
100 pairs men's shoes
100 men's and boys'straw hats
10 boxes mould candies
50 English copying books
70 reams English copying paper
1000 yards English adhesive plaister
A lot of enamelled cloth, suitable for haversacks, carriage covers, &c
Traveling bags of same material
Opera glasses, sewing machines
A breakfast set of sliver-plated ware, including spoons, forks, &c
A volcanic rifle, repeating 30 times, with 1000 cartridges
A magnificent English double barreled gun, barrels laminated steel, in mahogany case, with all necessary implements complete, entirely now.
A highly finished English sword, scabbard in black and rich gold plate, patent leather belt, just imported
Also,
The stock of a Photographer to be sold without reserve, including
2 camera cases
Photographic paper
Bristol boards
Chloride of gold
Narrate of silver
Collodion hype sulp soda preservers
Glasses in large variety
Diamond varnish, &c
A large lot of drugs, medicines, with show bottles, gallipots, &c
Also,
Several fine gold watches and chains
Diamond rings
W. H. Fowes. Sons & co, Auct's.

   July 26, 1864

John H Lester, citizen, who for some time previous to the war was engaged in the manufacture of sewing machines in Richmond, was charged with manufacturing arms for the enemies of the United States, giving information and endeavoring to give aid and comfort to the enemy, and treasonable and disloyal conduct. The Court sentenced him "to be confined at hard labor, with ball and chain, at such place as the commanding General shall direct, for the period of ten years, and to forfeit all property in the hands of Captain Cassels, Provost Marshal, to the Government of the United States."
These barbarous sentences are now doubtless being carried into execution.

   Sept. 12, 1864

By Williamson & Co., Auctioneers,
(no. 192 Main street, between Ninth and Tenth.)
Pianos,
Furniture,
Gold and Silver Watches,
Fancy Articles,
Clothing, &c.,
at Auction.
On Wednesday, the 14th instant, commencing at 10 o'clock A. M., we will sell at our salesroom, No. 192 Main street, an assortment of Goods, consisting of the following and other articles:
1 Rosewood Piano,
Parlor, Cane and Windsor Chairs,
Hair-cloth and Cane Rockers,
Dining, Parlor and Kitchen Tables,
Tete-a-Tetes and Lounges,
French, Jenny Lind and Cottage Bedsteads,
Hair and Shuck Mattresses,
Pillows, Bolsters, Sheets, Blankets, &c.,
Several excellent Cabinet Sewing Machines,
Pictures, Mirrors, &c.,
Fancy Articles,
Clothing, Boots and Shoes,
Gold and Silver Watches,
43 pieces Black and White Calico, &c.
Williamson & Co.,
Auctioneers.

   Sept. 12, 1864

By George W. Willis, Auctioneer,
(no. 63 Main street.)
Will be sold at Auction, at my Store, on Tuesday, September13th, at 10 o'clock, a desirable lot of
Household and Kitchen Furniture;
Crockery and Glassware,
Ready-made Clothing,
Shoes, Hats, Blankets, &c.
Also, Several fine Gold and Silver Watches,
Two Sewing Machines, in good order.

G. W. Willis, Auctioneer.

   Jan. 2, 1865

Wanted
Lady having a Lester Plantation Sewing-machine can find steady employment. Apply at P. H. Keach's store, between Eighth and Ninth, on Main street.

   Jan. 9, 1865

Sewing-Machine for Sale.
I have for sale a No. 1 family Sewing-Machine, in perfect order, and warranted to work well. Apply to Thomas J. Starke, 203 Main Street [/i]

       Speaking of the West...  of course socio-economic class come sinto play- meaning did a woman have enough money to be able to buy a sewing machine for her home use.
       And, there is a lag or "push or pull" between the rise of "affordable" commercial "off the rack" clothing and where "inventory" was coming in form.  Meaning a general store might carry a mix of commercial as well as local fully hand-sewn clothing or home sewing machiine made clothing- or a mail order catlaog could pull in Eastern mass produced clothng as well.

  I need to find a reference book buried aorund the house somewhere on the sewing industry of 1865 through the 1890's to be able to post some more....

   Mick Archer

['Monterrey' Jack Brass]

Joss,

I'll see what else I can dig up but, again, my resources/library on this is fairly limited - what I posted is about all I have on this interesting subject. If you get a copy of the 'The Craft Apprentice' let me know what you think as it's a good read, well researched, and provides a lot of information on the era via the master/apprentice dynamic as things transitioned from hand to machine manufacture.

On another note, a few months ago I discussed with Bill Christen, a collector of original civilian clothing items from the 1850s- mid 1870s, the idear of doing a study of his post CW items and making a info/guide book on civilian clothing of some sort for use in the Association with photo details & etc. He has a rather extensive collection of original stuff that is frequently travelling and on display. Of course any endeavor of this sort would be rather time consuming and time is something I don't have too much of these days. I think this is something for the future. Will keep you posted on this and other things of interest as they develop mon ami.

your most humble & ob't servant,

Brass

[James Hunt]

Joss: Good point - without citing a reference intellectual effort never exceeds opinion. I'd be the first to suggest that my memory is a slop bucket of informed discourse and outright imagination, constantly stirred I am never sure where truth lies, always ask me to cite the source Also agree with you on Beth Gilgun's work, it is outstanding for the colonial era and I find myself often wishing for a similar treatment of the Victorian era.

Brass: Good information as usual. I have only two Victorian sources on clothing in my library, both heavy on photo's and light on discussion, no information regarding when machine clothing began to overtake hand sewn. This fella you know needs to publish his knowledge!!!!

[Delmonico]

One of the problems is with inter-net forum boards is often folks find it easier to ask questions rather than to do research themselves, this is not a big problem, because often there is someone who has that knowledge in their head and are glad to sit down and spend a few minutes typing and posting an answer.  However to go back through notes, books, pictures and other sources often can require a few hours of work for that person to get the "documentation many want.  With the same basic resources that can be found by anyone serious enongh to want that level, why should someone do that much work for someone who won't do the work themselves.

Joss if you would have done the internet search I suggested on the "sweat shops" and opened up the links you would have found the couple of sites I looked at had lots of source information in the form of books listed.  These can often be bought off the inter-net or even borrowed off of inter-library loans.  However I learned along time ago, books are just anotyher source that the information given is often not the same from book to book, why, because books are written by folks who have hopefully done some resesarch, but that often also depends on having faith that the person who's work you have researched often has done a good job.

A history buff reads just the research of another, a historian reads that and rolls up their sleeves andthen digs in and does as much research from as many sources as on can finds and often has to make their own conclusions, most likely in many cases that has been what the person who wrote a book did, but they published it.  If one really wants to understand one muct often check out what can be hundreds of sources, some of them in the strangest places. 

The machine sewn clothing has some interesting sources few ever think about.  Most of us know Oliver Winchester owned a shirt factory before getting into gun making.  B. Tyler Henry came over from the shirt factory where he was the mechanic that kept the sewing machines working.  That gives one a clue that further research will find out that machine made shirts date before the Civil War and shows that further research will most likely prove it out.  Information is where you find it, how good it is needs your own research.

Remeber, you give a man a fish and you feed him for a day.
You teach him to fish and he can feed himself.

To many though choose to sit in the boat and whine that the fishing is no good.

['Monterrey' Jack Brass]

Joss,

Agreed, you hit it on the head. Based on the subject at hand and the fun of finding things out, end employing such in old west activities where applicable, I look forward to finding out more and will definitely let you know what I learn.

Wish I could provide more info at this time, but, alas, cannot.

Hope all is well in California.

Monterrey J. B.

[Mick Archer]

  Howdy Pards!

   "All but the poorest most isolated families purchased some ready-made clothing by the 1870s, and store-bought fabrics and paper patterns made it easier to sew a variety of shirts, blouses, undergarments, and children's clothing at home. Women's magazines fairly burst with new designs, and the "paper pattern business," by 1867, had become a thirty-million-dollar annual industry. The result was a curious standardization of American clothing. "The uniformity of dress," concluded Harper's Bazaar, "is a characteristic the people of the United States. The man of leisure and the  laborer, the mistress and the maid, wear clothes of the same material and cut."  (page 55)

  The "sewing trades," second only to domestic service for female employment, provided work for nearly 200,000 seam-stresses, tailoresses, and shirt, cuff, and collar makers. Varied circumstances characterized the sewing trades. Women who operated their own shops often enjoyed quite respectable positions, but only the very best independent seamstresses earned comfortable livings, and the number of new milliner and dress-making shops opening each year usually equaled the number that failed. Most sewing women were paid by "the piece," working either in their homes or in large mass-producing ware-houses. A typical urban piece worker sewed "for a miserable pittance," making cotton shirts for six cents each, flannel shirts for a dollar a dozen, and men's overalls for sixty-two cents a dozen. In order to meet expenses of rent (one dollar a week for a sparsely furnished tenement room), fuel (three cents for a bundle of kindling; fifteen cents a pail for coal), and food (mostly bread and potatoes), she had to average at least twelve hours' work every day. Then, too, home workers sometimes lost part of their earnings to unscrupulous employers wlo refused full payment for alleged flaws in workmanship. "If she owns a sewing machine, and very few do," observed one man of New York's needlewomen, "she can earn more than one who sews by hand, but constant work at the machine means a speedy breaking down of health and a lingering death, or a transfer to the charity hospital." Desperate to increase productivity, some women succumbed to advertisements that declared, "Sewing machines for sale and paid for in work." They put down a few dollars on a sixty-five-dollar machine. The salesman promised to furnish enough work to pay off the balance ins few months. Sometimes the arrangement worked. Other times, salesmen stopped providing work and repossessed the machine when it was nearly paid for.
Working in sewing lofts—not yet referred to as "sweat shops"—was only marginally better. The usual sewing girl reported to work at 7 A.M. and stitched until noon, when she enjoyed "a brief intermission" of about thirty minutes before resuming work until 6 P.M. Women paid by the piece, rather than a weekly wage, frequently took work home to sew for another two to four hours after supper. "You may see them in the morning," reported an observer of New York's needle-women, "thinly clad, weary and anxious, going in crowds to their work. They have few holidays except on Sunday, and but few pleasures at any time." Most shops were unhealthy places to work. Some of them lacked sufficient ventilation in summer and provided inadequate heat in winter. "The work rooms ... are almost always up three or four flights of stairs," revealed a commentator on conditions in New England, "and are filled with women as closely as they can sit at their work. They have no means of ventilation except by the windows, which are frequently on but one side of the room.... Fully one-half of these rooms are without water-closets or water for drinking." Skilled custom workers earned as high as fifteen dollars a week, but few qualified for such work. Most needlewomen earned in the range of two to six dollars, but it must be remembered that their jobs were seasonal, and few women worked more than six months of the year.
The nation's textile mills, 60 percent of their employees being female, offered an alternative to needlework in some parts of the country. "Women are more orderly, more easily governed, and more cleanly than men," explained one observer of the preference for female mill workers in 1868. "They are more attentive, as a general thing, where the labor requires only looking after, creating no fatigue, except that which arises from close attention." They also worked for less. Women generally operated power looms and other machines that reduced the need for laborers. In 1870, for instance, the woolens industry introduced a new machine, the "slasher," to size yarn. This innovation replaced well-paid female dressers who had previously performed the task. Increasingly efficient power looms reduced the number of women in cotton mills and required more labor of the workers who remained. Instead of tending four looms with six hundred picks per minute, each operative supervised six to eight looms with an output as high as fifteen hundred picks per minute.
The quality of life in textile mills had declined, too. Some mills, such as those at Lawrence, Massachusetts, retained many of the advantages associated with mills of the 1830s and 1840s, when workers had enjoyed good wages, labored in clean, pleas-ant factories, and resided in comfortable dormitories. But such vestiges of the old system were rapidly disappearing. Mill girls of the 1870s often worked shorter hours than they had a decade earlier, but they performed more work for lower wages. Far from enjoying the pleasant, healthy surroundings of earlier days, mill workers found themselves "always on the jump," with "no time to improve themselves." Temperatures in cotton mills, most of them still in New England, ranged between seventy and eighty degrees during most of the year, as high as ninety degrees in summer."   (pages 165-167)

  One of my favorite "pocket guides" is  "The Expansion of Everyday Life 1860-1876" by Daniel E. Sutherland.  He covers:

1.  A Soldier's Life
2. Houses, Homesteads, and Hovels
3. Life at Home
4.  Churches, Charities, and Schools
5.  Rites of Passage
6.  Working on the Land
7.  Working in Town:  The Laborers
8.  Working in Town:  Shopkeepers and Professionals
9.  Daily Woes
10.  Enjoying Life

Epilogue:  The Second Century

Selected Bibliography

   Mick Archer