1866 Winchester...new shooter

[Dirty Dan Dawkins]

Just got a '66 yellowboy carbine in 45 colt for $575 NIB. Hard for me to turn that one down after seeing them in the high $700s and up.
Anyways, I have always loved these rifle. The Henry and the '66 are to me by far the two prettiest danged rifles ever produced.
If anyone has any tips for me as I am new to this model rifle, I'd appreciate it. I shoot real black powder.

Thanks
3D

[Dusty Morningwood]

Just fill the case up to about 1/8" from mouth and use a Big-Lube bullet.  Other than that, just shoot it!

[Dirty Dan Dawkins]

Cool! That was my intentions exactly!
Seriously though, I kept hearin' rumors of stretched/damaged frames and such if loads were too much..

[Tuolumne Lawman]

You can load either FFG or FFFG, about 35-37 grns (Volume) depending on whether you use a drop tube.  I like about 33 with a wonder wad, as it keeps it cleaner.  FFFG makes hotter (faster) loads, though still safe, but FFG tends to be more accurate.  I don't see any difference in fouling as long as you use bullets with pleanty of lube.

[Flint]

You won't "stretch the frame" with black powder loads, as the black powder does not hammer the bolt head like smokeless does.    Generally, it's the link pin mount in the frame that gets elongated, or loose, with overly heavy smokeless loads.  These rifles are not to be hotrodded.

Stick to SASS/CAS loads and the rifle will last longer than you will.

[Dirty Dan Dawkins]

 
Thanks guys. Gonna get me some big lubes ordered. Eventually I may start castin' my own. Just got plenty of powder in. I'm a rarin' to go!

[Tuolumne Lawman]

Right now I use 777 Hodgdon's in my BP loads, as BP is hard (almost impossible) to get and VERY expensive in Northern Kalifornia.  I plan on switching back to Goex when I move back to Illinois next month.  It is cheaper and more readily available there.

There is nothing like a Henry and a couple Remington conversions belching real BP smoke on a damp morning <G>!

[Dirty Dan Dawkins]

Well, me and some pards just got 50#s of goex in. Sorry ya have so much trouble gettin' powder.
Are there any distinct characteristics/mechanics to a '66 as opposed to other rifles I should be aware of? I understand there is a JB weld fix to the loading gate I believe it is, although someone would have to show me exactly where.

[Flint]

I believe the loading gate problem is only with the 38 Special rifle, the 45 Colt should be OK.

[Dirty Dan Dawkins]

Shot rifle Saturday in local match. Only problem was the elevator hung up once. Ballistol solved that and the rifle actually seemed to get better and better ( smoother ) as the day went along.

[Dusty Morningwood]

Shot rifle Saturday in local match. Only problem was the elevator hung up once. Ballistol solved that and the rifle actually seemed to get better and better ( smoother ) as the day went along.

Do what I did with my 66 and Henry.  Squirt some toothpaste inside and sit down for a few hours of TV and work the lever over and over again.  Put a towel in your lap!!  That slight abrasion from the toothpaste helps take some of the fine roughness out.  Then flush the receiver out with scalding hot water until all the foam is gone.  It will dry pretty quick  and then spritz with your favorite lubricant.

[Mako]

Dan,
I looked at a new .45 in the store Monday and it has the same wimpy tab on the loading gate.  Maybe Flint has seen some that are different but this was the same gate as I saw in two of my '66s. The gate "ladle" is a stamped part as received from Uberti, the cartridge stop tab at the front is a 90° bent piece of sheet metal that has been further weakened by polishing.

The JB Weld fix you spoke of is basically adding the putty to the back side of the tab.  Extend it back a good  1/4 to 3/8ths of an inch and make it match the profile of the tab as you look at it end on.  Before adding the epoxy/metal filled putty rough up the back side of the tab and the back surface of the gate  area the epoxy will adhere to then use acetone to clean it before adding the filler.  Basically what you are doing is adding a "dorsal fin" type of backing to that tab.  The gates you buy from gunsmiths usually solder a piece behind the tab which accomplishes the same thing.  After it dries check the profile and reinstall it.  Then cycle the lever to make sure there isn't any interference and then depress the gate to assure it goes low enough to allow cartridges to be loaded.  Don't use live rounds, make some dummies using no powder or primer, then drill a cross hole through it to make it immediately recognizable as a dummy.

When you take your rifle apart the first time place the starboard side plate back on and observe from the opposite side with the side plate removed how the carrier clears the cut in the bronze receiver you will note a rectangular machined cut the tab goes into when the gate is depressed.  If you still have the innards more or less in the receiver you can also carefully work the action and note how the tab on the loading gate has to clear the Carrier Lifter Arm as it moves up and down.  Note how the tab is radiused to help facilitate this passage of the arm up and down if it was slightly depressed and being held there by the round in the carrier pushing against the gate.  The radius helps the arm move a tab that is in the condition mentioned above out of the way and prevent binding.  Make sure your added material has this same radial shape or has full clearance.

Hope this helps.

Mako

[Dirty Dan Dawkins]

So far few problems. Another pard mentioned the toothpaste action job.
I did have a jam once in Thursdays BP match at Mule Camp. But It clear on it's own with some force in the lever.
The rifle did quite fine for me other than that. Still unclear about the jam, as it only happened once and never did it again.
Thanks guys for your help.