Timing a 1875

[Wantin Mooar]

Had some time during a recent blizzard and thought I would polish the rough edges on my 1875.  I only polished I thought where the wear marks were.  Prior to this polishing the remmie was timed and I had no wear marks on the cyclinder.  Now I see that the timing is a little early; about 3/16" early and I have the ringing/drag marks appearing on my cyclinder.  What do I have to do to get it back in time? 

Thanks in advance for any help.

[Fox Creek Kid]

Buy a new hand & have a CAS gunsmith fit it.

[Wantin Mooar]

Buy a new hand & have a CAS gunsmith fit it.

Thanks for the reply Fox Creek Kid.  Was actually looking for a little different response.    I would have thought with all of the Remington enthusiats (sp) there would have been a few more instructional (how to) posts here in the Remington pages.  Guess I'll have to figure it out my own self. 

[Fox Creek Kid]

Timing a handgun correctly is difficult. Trial & error as well as feel. There are no easy 1. 2. 3. steps to follow. I've done it and it isn't easy as one too many licks on the stone and OOOPPS! The best way to learn is to have a gunsmith who knows how to do it show you, but remember that's how they make their money.

[French Jack]

There may well be something other than the hand that is causing the early bolt drop.  The "D" cam may be worn on the hammer, or the bolt finger may need some adjustment.  It may also be worn short on the tip that engages the cam.  Any of these items may cause the problem.  If you wish to work on it, you need to see which item is causing the problem.  New hammers, new hands, new bolts can be obtained and fit if needed. 

[Wantin Mooar]

thanks for the replys.  I know there isn't a simple process, but I want to learn.  Thats why I bought a less expensive gun. 

French Jack, you mentioned adjustment of the bolt.  What kind of adjustment are you talking about.  It appeared to me to be a springy piece of metal.  Is it possible I caused a mis-alignment when I put it back together?

[French Jack]

If you look at the bolt, you will notice that it is 'L' shaped with two spring legs.  The leg on the inside toward the hammer, rides up and over the "D" cam on the hammer, which causes the bolt to drop and unlatch the cylinder.  If it drops too soon, the bolt will wear a line between the bolt slots on the cylinder.  If it drops too late, an overly long hand or even one the right length, applied with vigor (in cocking) can cause the cylinder to over rotate and not lock up properly.  The tension between the legs and the frame and hammer is critical.  Too snug can cause excessive wear on the bolt and the hammer cam.  Too little allows the bolt to slip the cam.  If the hand is too long, it can prevent the hammer from being fully cocked,  can prevent the cylinder from locking properly, and if too short can also fail to rotate the cylinder enough to allow it to index and be locked up properly.

The thing is, you have three things that are inter related and can cause timing problems, and to some extent affect the operation of each other.  The surfaces and edges of each of the legs and the cam also need to allow proper function without excessive wear.  Some of the imports have excessively hardened bolts and soft hammer cams, which leads to a chewed up cam in short order.  Then the hammer needs to be replaced, usually because the cam is not replaceable.

Don't know if this helps or muddies the water.  I suggest that you get one of the many books written on the subject.

[Wantin Mooar]

Thanks French Jack, your explanation definitely helped solve my problem.  I took it apart again and looked real close at everything.  The bolt seamed to have wear on the legs you were talking about.  I ordered a new bolt, installed, and it works perfectly now.  Thanks for your help.  I printed this post as certainly was the info I was looking for.