Cleaning Firearms Back then

[matt45]

Hello the Camp
Here is a question for all you historical folks.

What were the various methods/materials that most folks used to clean their weapons back then?

I'm jumping from the Spencer Shooting Society, and the soldiers w/those weapons were issued a combination tool and a lanyard with a bore brush.  I assume (and we know the danger of that) that kerosene was used as a solvent.

But my assumption is not as good as knowing.  Any input would be appreciated.
                                                                                             Matt45

[River City John]

One expediant military method called for removing the wood grips and dunking the revolver by suspending in boiling water for a short spell, then as it drained after pulling it out residual heat helped to dry the moisture out of the innards and recesses, etc. Oil and put the wood grips back on.

[St. George]

Try 'hot, soapy water' - just like the black powder shooters always have done it.

That was solvent enough - without using kerosene.

Hot water would suffice, if there was no soap to use for the purpose - followed by what oil as might be - and failing that - drying with a cloth of some variety.

The 'issue' cleaning device was a 'brush and thong' - with a 'Barracks Cleaning Rod' available in the obvious location.

Patches were cut from what cloth as might be available.

The military issued a number of accouterments for needed take-down - but the average soldier wasn't detail-stripping the piece unless under the watchful eye of the Corporal or Sergeant.

The average cowboy wasn't detail-stripping the piece at all - but would wipe the exposed metal with oil if there was any - and would push an oiled rag through the barrels and chambers and actions.

PMCS on weapons wasn't what it would become - not by a long shot - but no one during the time frame shot anywhere near as much back then as they do today - not even the Frontier Soldier.

There wasn't the ammunition allocation for marksmanship practice.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Marshal Deadwood]

I have a kind of a follow up question folks. Like iv said before, iv been a flintlock shooter for 30 years so BP is no new magic for me.
But, in revolveres and rifles,,,,,how often do you folks clean the internals? Each time durning cleaning..occasuonally...never?
I didnt clean the internals of my flintlocks 'locks' each time,,but perhaps 4 times a year,,,to re-lube and check for residue,,,and it rarely ever shows signs of needing 'cleaned',,,,but always did it as a 'better safe than sorry' deal.
But, I dont want to ruin new revolvers by neglecting the internals....neither do I want to disamble them more than is necessary.
Any advice would be most welcomed.
BTW,,,soapy water like St. George said is really all the 'cleaning solution' one needs for BP. Followed by your choice of lubricant. At least this was as complicated as I ever got with the front stuffers.

Marshal Deadwood

[St. George]

Most seem to use a 'bath' of Ballistol - after removing the grips and separating the cylinder from the frame.

For more - go to 'The Darksider's Den' forum, since BP's their specialty.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Noz]

In the "good old days" one of the field expedients was urine. Dissolves black powder residue nicely.  Use what ever you got to get the job done.

[matt45]

So the new question, or collolary to the existing question is what was the prefered lubricant, when one was available?

In the book Crow Killer, John Johnston is related to have carried a bottle of whale oil (this was the late 1840's and through the 1850's).

And did the Army have a preferred lubricant during the frontier era?

Thanks for the info

[St. George]

Oil from the Sperm Whale was most common at the time - the real question is it's presence.

The Army didn't offer an 'oiler' - so none was carried, nor supplied to the individual soldier unless in a garrison setting.

The Cowboy may or may not have a small amount in his saddlebags - probably didn't.

Any 'light oil' could be used for lubrication of firearms - and that term covers a lot of oils.

In the 1890's 'Winchester' made a 'Gun Grease' and C&D made a 'Pocket Oiler' - but these came late, and are associated more with hunters and sportsmen, than they are the Frontier.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Steel Horse Bailey]

In the "good old days" one of the field expedients was urine. Dissolves black powder residue nicely.  Use what ever you got to get the job done.

Howdy!

Nozzle Rag, I'm VERY happy you posted this.  Now I know I'm NOT the only one who has heard about this "field expedient method"!

On a similar note, when I was a young buck-sergeant, I was in charge of a work detail and a deuce-and-a-half truck, with me as the driver.  While returning from our detail, the 2 1/2 ton truck developed a leak in one of the hoses.  It was an easy fix, due to it leaking right behind the clamp, so I simply trimmed off the bad part and re-clamped it.  Problem was, 3/4ths of the coolant/water mix had departed.  We had no extra water except in our canteens (of about 7 soldiers.)  Not near enough to put in AT LEAST what would be the minimum amount to get us back to the top of the hill we needed to ascend - up about 1 mile of VERY steep (about a 45 degree slope) road.  Well, the canteens were emptied, then I ordered all of us to ... shall I say, releive ourselves into the radiator.  Between the canteen water and the urine, we got the radiator and engine about 1/2 full.  Worked like a champ!  Needless to say, we topped off the radiator at the top of the hill, but I somehow never mentioned the details to the mechanics that evening.  I hope none splashed when the system was drained! 

[Mick Archer]

  Howdy Pards!

  Matt pard..
 
Just a "bump."

Regarding the Civil War cavalry...

Regarding cleaning, Congdon's Cavalry Compendium 1864 says says (pp. 36-37):

THE CARBINE

"The carbine should be kept in the condition which it was received from the armory. It should never be taken apart to clean, except when absolutely necessary, and with express permission of the company commander. The barrel should never be polished. The lock should never be taken apart, except by an armorer. After firing, the carbine should be cleaned with warm water, dried, and slightly oiled. Any infrigement of these instructions should be severely punished; because the rendering of a fire-arm unfit for use is one of the gravest offences an enlisted man can commit.

THE REVOLVER
The revolver is cleaned in the same manner as the carbine. The trooper should always know the number of his revolver. When ordered on any detached duty (without arms), he should place his arms in charge of the orderly sergeant, who is obliged to take charge of them and give the owner a receipt for the same.

At night, near the enemy, it is advisable to sleep with the arms under the head, unless otherwise ordered."

"THE SABRE
The sabre should be kept clean and bright; the edge as sharp as possible. It is the trooper's best and most trusty weapon. If the sabre is rusty or dull, observers will justly think that its owner will never have the courage to wield it.

"The scabbard should be kept clean and free from rust, but not polished.

"Sperm or sweet oil and flour of emery should be used in cleaning the sabre and scabbard. Beef-marrow is good to keep them from rusting."
And a collector pard of mine has a CW era pistol cartridge box. inside of it is:

1. A length of cord with a bullet attached to one end for the weight
2. Some cloth patches
3. A short wooden rod a littel longer than the cylinder
4. A Colt factory "L" screwdriver

We presume that the short rod, slightly longer than the chamber, wa sused to tamp down a patch tied to the end of the cord. And then the cord used to pull the patch up out of the chamber.

Boxes, and boxed/cased sets, of revolvers often came from the factory with loading and cleaning instructions. There are a number of these factory labels on the WWW, but the images are too small to enlarge and read- and my computer skills are not up to the task.

  And

"From Rules for the Management and Cleaning of the Rifle Musket, Model 1861, for the Use of Soldiers (applies to the Springfield Models 1855, 1861, and 1863, and more generally to the Enfield Models 1853 and 1858), under "Rules for Cleaning":

It is not essential for the musket to be dismounted {disassembled} every time that it is cleaned; for, after firing it in fine weather, or when there has been no chance for the wet to get between the barrel and the stock, it can be perfectly cleaned in the following manner.

Put a piece of rag or soft leather on the top of the cone, and let the hammer down upon it; pour a gill of water into the muzzle carefully, so that it does not run down the outside; put a plug of wood into the muzzle, and shake the gun up and down, changing the water repeatedly until it comes out clear. When clear, withdraw the leather, and stand the musket on the muzzle for a few moments; then wipe out the barrel (as given in the second rule for cleaning {see below}), and also wipe the exterior of the lock and the outside of the barrel around the cone and cone-seat first with a damp rag, and then with a dry one, and lastly with a rag that has been slightly oiled. In this way, all the dirt due to the firing may be removed without taking out a screw.

2nd. Screw the wiper on to the end of the ramrod, and put a piece of dry cloth, or tow, round it, sufficient to keep it from chafing the grooves of the barrel; wipe the barrel quite dry, changing or drying the cloth two or three times.

3d. Put no oil into the vent, as it will clog the passage, and cause the first primer to miss fire; but, with a slightly oiled rag on the wiper, rub the bore of the barrel,... and immediately insert the tompion into the muzzle."


   Regarding Spencers, the "bore brush and thong" was for the carbine but not for the rifle.   ;-)

   For muzzleloaders, the military metal ones had a threaded end that would take a "wiper" attachment with twisted prongs that would hold either tow or patches.  For more "barracks" type cleaning, as well as some field use, for every so many rifles the contractor included wooden "wiping sticks."  (one in 10, one in 20 for example)
   Later as with the Henry, and early Winchesters, a three piece take down rod was secured in a butt trap (usually not found on the reproductions..)
    The Army tried them too, such as in 1877 with one being included in the butt trap of Trapdoor carbines- the first time a rod was authorized for each man since the 1850's, but stopped in 1878-1879 with wooden rods for each rifle which was explained in the 1898 manual for rifles/carbines that steel rods should not be used for cleaning..

    The Army did experiment with pistol rods such as with the Remington M1866 Navy and later M1871 Army pistols.  The idea was partially carried over to holsters that included  a pocket for the rod.
     Plus there are period adds, such as Smith & Wesson's for their new S & W No. 3 revolver that identifies a cleaning rod.

    Mick Archer

[Fox Creek Kid]

Notice the cleaning rod in bottom of the photo: http://www.remingtonsociety.com/events/9th/Gun_case_008.jpg

[James Hunt]

Mick Archer: Great post!!!! Great documented information!!! This is good stuff - history is about referencing knowledge. Thanks.