Screw drivers

[Noz]

Has anyone attempted to hollow grind screw drivers.?
I can't find anything that will fit my 1858 and 1860 C&B revolvers.

[Delmonico]

Yep, I've done it with a Dremal tool, keep it cool while you grind, you can overheat it so damned fast you wouldn't belive it.

[Noz]

What sort of tool did you use. Drum sander, stone?

[litl rooster]

Has anyone attempted to hollow grind screw drivers.?
I can't find anything that will fit my 1858 and 1860 C&B revolvers.

where have ya looked? I have 7 pc Marlin set that fits most anything includung my C&B revolvers. then a 40ott pc. el cheapo set from the box store that will fit anything. All hollow grounded

[Singing Bear]

I use an old Craftsman magnetic screwdriver.  Found the smallest flat bit fits my c&b perfectly. 

I found some really nice, thin, hollow ground bits and a screwdriver at a dollar store.  Set up my screwdriver and commenced to removing some screws.  On the first one, I kinda looked away when I started turning the first screw.  It went really easy and thought it was too easy.  Darned tip twisted 90 degrees.  Hey, it was a buck and made in China.  What can I say. 

[Delmonico]

I just used a drum shaped stone.

[Delmonico]

A good gunsmith's set is the best way to go.  I don't even remember why I ground those bits, to be honest I would say if you have to ask how and why, you most likely don't have the skill to do it.  I know I did most of it with a Dremel and finished with a hand stone. 

[Be-A-triss Bandit]

Brownells's are good.  Chapman are even better.  I've got a 30 year old set with a ratchet attachment in a little red leatherette case.  They wear better than Brownell's.  If you get Brownell's make sure to order the skinny European screw tips in the full or extra set.

[Arcey]

Can't argue the quality of the Chapman set.  I suppose my set is upwards of thirty too.  Lost a couple bits along the way.  Busted one doin' something with it I shouldn't have been doin'.  Bottom line for me is if I had to buy another set it would be the Chapman.  I've never run into a screw in a revolver one of the bits wouldn't fit.

The problem I have with 'em, and those designed the same way, the shaft socket makes it awful easy to scratch a clone when you're pullin' the grip frame.  For that reason I only use the Chapman stuff when I'm tearin' a new one down for the first time and that's just to bust the screws loose.  I'll slip a matchbook cover in between the tool and the frame as well.  When I put the things back together I don't crank down on the screws, just get 'em good 'n snug.  Check 'em when I clean the things.

I found a ratching handled Stanley thing a while back.  Bits in the grip.  One of the bits fits the Uberti 'n Pietta screws quite well.  That thing lives in the truck.  The truck is where I'm shootin' when I'm shootin' and it's parked in the garage right next to where I mess with the guns when I'm home.

[Adirondack Jack]

I'd agree ya gotta go with the brownells or other high buck driver bits.  I just bought the "gun specific" bits from Brownells for my Marlins and Rugers.  I got handles out the wazoo.  Made a little thin leather roll to hold a rubber block for the bits and the handle just lays alongside.   Lives in my ammo box in the cart.

The trouble with the cheaper ones is brittle steel.  Only thing worse than a gouged screw from a bad fitting driver is a broken driver jabbed into the side of a pristine gun    For the relatively few bucks, the good drivers are a joy.

[Delmonico]

Been thinkin' the srews I made the bits for are in the lock of my Pedersoli Sharps and I just didn't have anything to fit it in the shop and made them.  Why did I take the lock apart?  Why to polish all the parts and slicker up.

[Wills Point Pete]

 I thought we were going to argue about Gin versus Vodka in the orange juice. MMM, Gin!

[Be-A-triss Bandit]

Well if you buy some some quality bits you can "gin" up a pretty good set for yourself.

[Cutter Carl]

I have to agree that you can't beat a high quality ($$) tools.  Working for years as a mechanic, I have aquired a lot of tools, cheap imports just don't do the job.  Look for tools made of chrome vandium steel they hold up the best.  The imports are generally carbon steel of variuos quality.  Stay away from chrome plated, get black oxide finish if you can.  The chrome flakes off with use and it is nasty stuff, like a razor, not to mention if a piece falls into your project and you miss it, you can tear internals up quickly.  The black oxide holds up well.  I have sockets that have set in a non-air conditioned garages (Florida's high humidy) for over 20 years and just wipe the surface rust off with a oily rag every 3-4 years.   

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Brownell's Magna-Tips for me. I've used the Chapman's. After I broke a couple I went with the Magna-Tips. In This Cowboy's Humble Opinion, the Chapman's are too brittle. When overtorqued they break. Magna-Tips tend to bend first if overtorqued, rather than breaking. Plus Magna-Tips are guaranteed. Bend or break one and Brownell's will replace it.

[Be-A-triss Bandit]

Funny how we all have different preferences.  I tend to bend the Brownells and have only broken the corner of one Chapman's bit.  I tried some Chinese tool store screwdrivers for automotive work.  Figured the drop forged one inch socket set I got there worked pretty good.  Well, the wood handles are on files now.  And even then I drilled them out and filled them with Acraglass before I pushed the files in.  Hate when a handle comes loose!