Question about brass.

[Bristow Kid]

Is the any thing special that has to be done to reload BP into brass that originally was loaded with smokeless powder?  Like cleaning annealing or anything like that.

Bristow Kid

[Tensleep]

First time I loaded BP (APP) I just loaded as if I was loading smokeless.

After shooting, soak in a 50/50 mix of vinegar/water with 2 drops of Dawn. Rinse in cold water, let dry in the sun or in the oven (225/1 hr) then tumble and load again.
This has worked well for me.

[Grapeshot]

You might try opening up the primer flash hole with a 3/32nd's drill bit or a #41 drill bit and compress your powder charge.  Even though BP will ignite easily when loose, you will be advised to use a Large Magnum Rifle Primer, either Winchester or Federal.  This will give a longer lasting flame that will penetrate the compacted powder and improve ignition and decrease fouling and smoke as you get a more consistant burn.

For further information see www.the45-7-book.com

[Cyrille]

Is the any thing special that has to be done to reload BP into brass that originally was loaded with smokeless powder?  Like cleaning annealing or anything like that.

Bristow Kid

What about clean unfired brass?

[Tensleep]

What about clean unfired brass?

I found that my new Starline brass was much easier to load the first time if I tumbled it to remove any oil after I "toasted" it at three hundred fifty degrees for about an hour and a half.

First time through, Starline seems to be hard on my sizer die if I don't bake it.

[Cyrille]

 Thanks, ole ranger,
  but your answer brings to mind another question, up to now I've only been resizing my new Starline brass before loading w/'Tite-Group' and have had no problem with Starline in my resizing die after lubing it of course. Are you saying that 'heat-treated'  brass is eaiser to resize than cold, fresh factory brass, and does this apply to brass loaded w/smokyless as well as the Holy Black?

[Tensleep]

Cyrille (Cereal) 

I don't lube my brass at all as I shoot straight walled stuff, ie. 45LC, 45S&W, 38 spl.
I also use carbide dies.

I bake and clean ALL NEW brass before I load it with anything, BP or smokeless.

[Cyrille]

Thanks again 10zzzz;
I use the 'stright-wall' brass myself.
I use a Lee 'Handloader' when reloading and thus lube the brass out of nessity [sp.]
but do you find that 'baking the brass' makes it eaiser to resize

[Tensleep]

It seems to be Cyrille.
I have several presses, both single stage and progressive.

After baking the brass seems more "workable" and I don't have to exert as much force sizing no matter which press I am using.

[Cyrille]

That's a good tip ole ranger, think I'll try it. The brass just has to be 'baked' right? Not still warm when resized.

[Tensleep]

That's a good tip ole ranger, think I'll try it. The brass just has to be 'baked' right? Not still warm when resized.

After baking, I let the brass cool then tumble, then load.

[Grapeshot]

Hey Tensleep.  Sounds like you are annealing the brass to soften it up after it has been work hardened by the manufacturing process.

[Bristow Kid]

Thanks form all the helpful tips y'all.  tensleep I have a bag of brand new winchester brass would this work for that too?  And does anyone know who makes the brass for Ultramax?

[Cyrille]

It seems to be Cyrille.


After baking the brass seems more "workable" and I don't have to exert as much force sizing no matter which press I am using.

Wal Ole Ranger I just removed the Starline brass.45 LC from the oven, it's outside cooling as I type: I will say this for annealing it sure turns all that pretty, bright brass an interesting color, reminds me of therose fingered dawn  Homer mentions in his Iliad, and Odyssey! any comments or thoughts on the subject?

[gw]

Hey guys, before this goes any further, heating brass to 350F is not annealling it! It has to be heated to a dull red and quenched in water, and then only the case mouth, not the entire case!!!!!!!!! Before anybody goes off and hurts themselves, at least read the archived thread on brass annealling under the Darksiders Forum. If I wasn't at work I could find a good link for this but don't have time now.

                                                                                             GW

[Delmonico]

Also heating brass and not quenching hardens it.  this is brass, not steel.  As for annealing the whole case can you say "case head rupture."

[gw]

Try this link: http://www.lasc.us/CartridgeCaseAnnealing.htm