?? about money belts.

[Rascal Ralph]

After looking  through  the "Packing Iron" book. it seems there were an awful lot of Money belts. Wanting to make one, I have a few questions that I couldn't answer going through the book.
#1. Coins seemed to be fed into the belt on the "buckle-side" of the belt. Was this end left compleatly un-sewn?
#2. When the buckle billet was sewn in, is it only stitched through the front piece of the folded over belt?(allowing  more room to slide money etc. further down the belt?) It seems light wt. leather was used, and I was afraid the billet would pull to much on just one layer of the belt.
#3. What would be the best leather to use? I see an edge crease on the edge that is not sewn, and to light of a leather would not take a crease.
#4. Finally, would you know if the sewn edge was folded over, (like a hem),or just met together ? At the cost of leather now, I need to make it right the first time! Thanks for your time. RR

[Slowhand Bob]

#1-  Yes
#2-  Yes
#3-  I use 5/7oz suede but have see beautiful ones made of full grain oak tand and from upholstery leather
#4-  Not as in a hem but more just meet and glued, then sewn.
#5-  Not asked but did you notice the slot on the open end that accepts the billet to seal the end?

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Looks like Slowhand Bob has the correct feedback for you. All the pics I've seen bear out the same information. Be sure to post a photo when you're done.

[Forty Rod]

#2.  I've seen originals both ways.  Most were sewn only to the outside , but a lot were sewn through front and back for extra strength.  (Still leaves most of the belt open to accept your treasure.)

I've never seen any with the cartridge loops sewn clear through, nor have I ever seen an original with the loops threaded through the belt onstead of being sewn on.

[Rascal Ralph]

Thanks to all! I have the answers I need to start.
Yes, I did notice the slot cut for the billet!
Thanks Forty Rod, I didn't see any bullet loops sewn through, and figured that was the way there done. I planned to sew the loops, as I didn[t see any in the book laced. RR

[Slowhand Bob]

RR, I have made two for myself over recent years and neither was done historically accurate.  The one I'm currently using is right on accept for having the bullet loops sewn through both layers for better support, I'll never have enough gold coins to bottom out on the bullet loops anyway.  My thoughts now days are that I never use the bullet loops either so they can be eliminated.  My next gun belt will be a 2 1/2" fake style, sewn at top and both ends with no bullet loops period.  I like a med/heavy suede money style gunbelt but look for the things that make it practical and comfortable for my needs.  Aint choices great!   

[Trailrider]

Howdy, Pards,

I normally sew the cartridge loops through both layers on my CM-100 (2") and CM-100R (2-1/2") for strength, although it is NOT generally authentic to the originals.  But most folks are more interested in durability and sturdiness.  I'll do them the other way, however, on request.  I generally use 4-5 oz leather, though I will use 5-6 oz for belts wider than 2-1/2".  The buckle billet is sewn through the front layer only, so you can put the bill of sale for your horse, or a fistfull of dollars, etc. in the open end of the belt.  The other end is sewn shut.  It tucks behind the buckle end of the belt body.  There is a slot in the open end through which you slip the tongue to close off the opening.

Mostly use topgrain cowhide, but have also used pig-grained topgrain (vegetable-tanned) on request.

Hope this is of some interest.

When making the crease at the top of the belt, be sure to wet the leather.  I roll a heavy piece of round steel billet along the fold to help flatten it.

[Forty Rod]

I've thought about asking to have a pair of money belts made with the inside made of suede or rough-out in such a way that it wouldn't show.  Should help keep the belts up on this old snake-hipped cowboy.

Any thoughts on this?

[Rascal Ralph]

I know what you mean Forty Rod, stopping the slipping can be a priority. I think a man could sew together two pieces of leather , fold over the top so the inside piece and the stitch line dosn't show, then stitch the bottom together in the normal style. It would still look like the whole belt is made of the outside leather . Might try it my self. Other way  would be to make it of suade. RR.

[Slowhand Bob]

Being long on tooth and short on memory I'm hesitant to give credit but someone recently shared an idea on a combination belt.  The description was of a tube formed such as is the money belt but with the addition of tapered ends made from full grain leather sewn into the two ends to form a different style of the common plains belt.  A neat idea that I will surely try soon.

[Nolan Sackett]

The description was of a tube formed such as is the money belt but with the addition of tapered ends made from full grain leather sewn into the two ends to form a different style of the common plains belt.  A neat idea that I will surely try soon.

like this Bob?

folded 3/4 oz center with 8/9 oz tapered ends.

#1. Coins seemed to be fed into the belt on the "buckle-side" of the belt. Was this end left completely un-sewn?
#2. When the buckle billet was sewn in, is it only stitched through the front piece of the folded over belt?(allowing  more room to slide money etc. further down the belt?) It seems light wt. leather was used, and I was afraid the billet would pull to much on just one layer of the belt.
#3. What would be the best leather to use? I see an edge crease on the edge that is not sewn, and to light of a leather would not take a crease.
#4. Finally, would you know if the sewn edge was folded over, (like a hem),or just met together ?

#1 - I've seen originals done both ways, but the sewn end with a slot for the opening is the most common of those still in existnce.
#2 - Sewn only through the front - otherwise it won't work as a money belt (Teddy Blue Abbott once carried $700.00 in gold coins in his belt.)
#3 - Most originals were made of 3/4 oz calf hide with some being 4/5 oz and some being lighter. In teh 1890's H H Heiser also made them of 5/6 oz chap hide. Don't worry about the stitches pulling, I've seen hundreds of well worn originals first hand with no torn billets and have built 2-300  hundred at least and have never had a complaint about tear out. Some were creased along the bottom edge and others weren't
#4 - just matched up no fold over

Cartridge loops were mostly sewn but there are woven loop examples in existence - see Packing Iron for one example in the Belts chapter.

For you snake hipped boys (I'm one with plenty of Dunlap too!) - add some suspenders - I've got picture of an orignal Sharps cartridge belt with added leather suspenders so they were not unknown. In my experience over time suede wears smooth and is no real help in the long run. On the other hand money belts, because of their construction, mold to your body shape and don't tend to slide off like stiffer belts do - and they are MUCH more comfortable!

[Forty Rod]

Re #2 above:  if you have trouble keeping your gunbelts up now, put $700 in gold coin in one and see if it's stays north of you boot tops.        

[Slowhand Bob]

Beautiful belt Nolan and exactly what I was talking about.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Nice belt, Nolan. I really like the way you put the ends on. That would keep the belt from distorting with the ends sewn on in the center only.

[Rascal Ralph]

I'm on my way to Tandy's in Memphis tomorrow morning. Decided to go with the Money belt simular to the one on the cover of Packing Iron. I like the Rawhide lace effect. The belt ends like Nolen posted should do the trick! Thanks to all who posted! RR