How many rounds through your Spencer?

[Oregon Bill]

After reading about parts hardness issues in the ArmiSport Spencers in another thread here, I'm just wondering how many rounds some of you have through your Spencesr, and how the parts seem to be holding up. Should have my .56-50 this week.

[geo]

be prepared for soft metal issues. my repro had the half cock fail after a hundred or so rounds. the hammer is impacting the receiver and pounding it. it may cause cycling problems after a while. good luck, geo.

[Sloan Dodgy]

I've run my .44 Spencer through a couple of seasons of cowboy shooting and have had no problems.  I doubt that my .56-50 will see enough action to wear out, but I'm looking forward to shooting it a bunch!

[French Jack]

Nearly a thousand rounds. Mine is 56-50 and all rounds have been full charge BP.  So far, so good.  Initially hammer screw loosened and allowed hammer to impact breech block.  I thightened that up and locktited the hammer screw. Beveled the inside face of the hammer so it will not encounter breech block.  Problem went away and has not returned.  You may need to locktite the screws that hold the firing pin to the slide, as if they work loose, you get some light firing pin strikes.  I would have to say that I would not wish to sell mine.

[Oregon Bill]

Guys, thanks for the replies. Hope my .56-50 is more like French Jacks, but I'll have a couple of things to look for.

[Oregon Bill]

French Jack: I can see where the inside of the hammer face can brush the breechblock on the way down. What did you use to bevel your hammer?

[Tuolumne Lawman]

I have several hundred through my 56-50 Taylor's,  but I think it will be a bunch more since they are SASS main match legal now (or shortly).  My current loads are 45 grains 777 FFG under a Dakota Widowmaker modified LEE 350.  I also used 40-42 grains 777 with the Buffalo Arms 350-.512, which is a close copy of the Rapine 350T.

I have just switched from my 44-40 Henry to my 56-50 Infantry Rifle as my primary main match rifle!!!!!!!  I'm so excited I could wet myself like a happy puppy!

[French Jack]

I took the hammer off and used a small tool grinder to bevel the inside edge.  A Dremel with a grinding wheel or a similar attachment would work as well.  The hammer is hardened, but take it slowly and check to make sure you do not remove too much.  It is easier to take it off than put it back on.

[Captain John Jarrett]

Hello,

   I have put somewhere between 600--800 rounds through my .44Russian model. I had one jam because I did not give the lever enough gusto, other than that it's been smooth sailing.


                                                                                                        Capt. John.

[Two Flints]

Hi,

The suggestion was made on this thread that what was needed was..."a checklist of things to do to your new gun so as to avoid any known minor problem without having each new user figure that out for himself?"

Would anyone like to start this off?  I would be willing to keep a list and eventually put it all together in a "Spencer repair-type" thread.  All you have to do is indicate as clearly as possible the problem you encountered with your new or old (original) Spencer and how you fixed it.

Two Flints

[Oregon Bill]

Two Flints: Hoping to baptize my Spencer this week, so I don't have anything to offer yet. But I would love to see this thread get started.

[Two Flints]

Hi O.B.,

The thread sort of all ready got started.  I think it has two fixes so far...check them out.  Look for the topic, "Suggested Spencer Fixes or Repairs."  Hopefully, you won't have to add to the list 'cause your Spencer will shoot OK and on target

Two Flints

[Ed Clintwood]

I finally found an indoor range open to the public that will allow lead bullets and I FINALLY fired mine today.  50 rounds worth loaded with Trail Boss and Lyman's bullet.  Worked like a charm.  Pattern about 2" high and 2" to the right at 25 yards.  I won't win any 1000 yard contests with it, but for CAS stuff what a hoot.  (won't win much there either 'cause it sure is slow).  My biggest gripe is a horrible trigger pull.

[Two Flints]

 
Hi Ed,

I thought I'd re-post Tuolumne Lawman's experience with a heavy trigger pull, that you may or may not want to try.  Your choice.  Just posting it here as a reply to your concern about the heavy trigger pull.  Maybe T.L. will offer more information on this.  Two Flints

I know this topic was brought up awhile back, but I have some more info.  When I got my current 56-50 Taylor's (momma felt sorry for me selling my first one to Yankee banddit for part of a new roof) It had about a 20+ pound trigger pull!  I popped off the lock plate (easy, 2 screws) and found the problem.  With all three of the lockwork arbor screws tightened, the sear was bound up. The smooth shank on the screw through the sear was about .oo1 too short.  I loosened that screw a quarter turn, and left the others tight.  It worked perfect.  I called Tammy and told her.  She will make sure that this is checked.  I will eventually stone down the whole sear so I can tighten the screw.  Taylor's would have fixed it, but I figured I could do it (took 5 minutes) so why bother.

I just lightened the trigger spring portion of the main spring by grinding lengthwise on the sear portion only.  I carefully took off less than 20% of the material  Works great.  Nice crisp trigger pull.

[Ed Clintwood]

Two Flints,
I read that, now I just have to do it.  I'll go find my "instruction manual" and try to figure out which two screws to take out and so on.  Thanks for finding the post for me.

[Wagon Wheel]

Maybe TL could post a couple of pictures for us that show what he did.

WW

[Ed Clintwood]

Why didn't I think of that.  I got so busy reloading I forgot to look

[Tuolumne Lawman]

Howdy,

I did two things to lighten the trigger pull.

First, the screws holding the arbor or yoke on the back side of the lock platre did not have a long enough unthreaded shank.  Tightened down, they bound up on the action.  I loosened them a tad (using locktight to hold them) and it lightened up quite a bit.

Next, I trimmed off about 1/3 of the side of the bottom of the mainspring. which engages the sear.  DO NOT CUT ANY OFF OF THE HAIRPIN END, BUT START FROM THE SEAR END BY THE SEAR, GOING TO JUST SHORT OF THE PIN THAT ENGAGES THE SIDE PLATE. THis is usually more than enough.

This is easier and safer than thinning the spring, which if done un-evenly will cause the spring to stress in the thinnest spot and sometimes snap. If you do thin the spring, USE A DREMMEL AND AN EMORY SANDING DRUM, continually moving it back and forth, keeping it even.

[Backstrap Bill]

178.  I've adressed problems in the thread about'I got my Spencer, now what?'

So soft metal problems, but I discovered that the lock was dry as a bone.  Lubed 'er up and it's working well.

[Hoot-3rd Ga]

Gentlemen:  I have put just over 2000 rounds through my Taylor 56-50 Spencer carbine. All of them but approx. 25 were with Goex FF black powder. I have worn out one mainspring($13.60), one firing pin($2.00) and two percussion plate screws($4.00). The percussion plate screws won't stay tight...take a little pounding and eventually the screw heads break off.  Part of this is due to the slots being cut too deep in the screw head. If you love your Spencer and plan on keeping it as I do, I'd reccomend calling Taylor's & Co. and get these parts so you will have them on hand.  You will need them sooner or later.
I haven't seen this modification mentioned. Make a solid pin to go inside the spring in the block which is a length that will limit the travel of the block when working the lever to its maximun length of travel during ejection.  This is a cheap, reliable way to avoid wearing out the stop in the frame which keeps the block from dropping out of the frame altogether. Hambone gets the credit for this great idea.   Hoot