Holster to belt connection

Rascal Ralph · December 17, 2005, 07:42:35 PM

I just finished a second set of holsters, both came from the "Tandy" Patterns by Will Ghormley. Its about 3-3/4" from the bend in the holster top, down to where the first strap around the holster will go. I know this will allow the holster to "ride up" when the gun is drawn. I know after fitting, I could put a Chicago screw through the holster fender, and then the belt. Or even put in a scab piece of leather hidden between the holster back and fender.
Have any of you addressed this problem? (if it is a problem). I never have noticed anything like this on my pards holsters. Most have the strap around the holster up near where a 2-1/2" or 3"belt would ride. Thanks in advance, RHR.

Marshal Will Wingam · December 17, 2005, 11:27:31 PM

I used a Chicago screw on my wife's holsters to tie the skirt to the body at the tip. Mine don't ride up because I have a leather thong through the tip for a tie-down. The body has a wide portion between the two straps so it probably wouldn't ride up anyway. You could just tie a thong through a hole and leave it with the thongs clipped off at 2"

The first pic is my wife's black pair and the second is one of my brown ones.

E.R.Beaumont · December 22, 2005, 04:05:19 AM

Merry Christmas, Happy Solstice, Season's Greetings, Happy Hollidays.

Rocking Horse, Pard I know what you mean. One of my first holsters had the holster loop at two different distances from the fold, it would twist and slid up. I had to fix it with a Chicago Screw.

Now I ain't the sharpest crayon in the box, but I could see right there that if I wanted a good fit on the belt I would have to measure. I make my belts 3" wide so I measure to give me 3 1/4" to 3 3/8" between the fold and the top of the holster loop. I find it easier to stick to Slim Jims or a modification of the holsters Lawerence, Bauer Brothers, and others made in the 60s and 70s. I sew the belt loop to the back of the holster and add a decorative strap around the holster. I did make some mexican loop holsters for my Russians. I made the top of the holster loop right at 3 1/4" and it is almost half way up my cylinder.

I guess one answer is to make wider belts, which isn't a bad idea. Or to adjust folds and holster loop tops to try to get everything where you want it. This is one of those details that we have to learn about either by someone telling us or by making a misstep ourselves. The Devil is in the details, I've had to tear work appart to redo something I got out of order. Sometimes when I begin a project I build paper models to see how things fit,or not.

Try slipping those holsters over a shotgun belt if the belt loops are big enough, make a slide for half a dozen pistol/rifle rounds and you are good to go

P.S. Those are some mighty fine looking skins, the Carving is real nice.

Just what I think I know.
Regards, Beaumont

Silver_Rings · December 22, 2005, 10:52:36 AM

I have used leather lace looped through 2 holes in the back of the holster then through 2 holes in the skirt and tied. No metal inside the holster this way.

SR

Coop Trawlaine · January 19, 2006, 09:41:23 PM

This is the set up I just finished for myself, the slim jim holsters were from Pappy Hayes site and I designed the belt to suit me. Those are two crossdraw holsters set strongside. What I did was make a flap on the belt that was a tight fit to the holster loop, it is sewed on one side to the belt and two chicago screws on the other side to hold the holsters in place. But this way if I get the urge I can change out the holsters by just removing the 4 screws and slip these off and slip new one's on....

Slowhand Bob · January 20, 2006, 12:52:22 PM

Coop, that is one of my favorite style rigs you have there. I really like the Slim Jims and consider them to be appropriate for any old west time period. I really like their look when worn with crossed belts that have no bullet loops. The years are starting to pile up on me a bit and a touch of arthyritus makes the joints less than optimally mobile BUT long barls and high rides can be made to work comfortably with a rig like you picture. Those who proclaim that the only remedy for bad shoulders is low riding Buscaderros have not tried a lot of forward muzzle rake. When worn slightly forward those canted holsters of yours provide a very natural and comfortable draw movement, my sad elbows and shoulders being able to do it somewhat comfortably are proof positive of which I speak. OH, who is Pappy Hayes and where is his site?

Rascal Ralph, there is a very current post running that shows one style of locking device you might wish to look at. Usually when a holster wants to ride up on the draw, you might want to consider molding the fit a bit looser and/or adding a filler strip to the mainseam. With a reasonbly tightly cinched belt it requires a bit of a tug to get the holster slipping and (I think) indicates a tight holster fit or a binding on the draw.

Rascal Ralph · January 20, 2006, 04:35:28 PM

Thanks Bob, and yes your right about the tight holsters. The new set I made got molded to my new guns, and fit just right. If you see my other post, you can see how I made sure there is no holster movement. Even when I think my belts tight, movement on the stage can cause it to loosen a little. With this addition on my rig, I don't worry about it anymore. Seeing coops rigs, now I want to make a set like them! RR.

Coop Trawlaine · January 20, 2006, 05:23:05 PM

Thanks Pards for your comments.... Pappy Hayes site is www.whetstonesmerc.com good deal on ready made slim jim holsters. I wet molded the holsters to the guns and flanged the opening slightly so they draw smooth and easier to reholster during a stage, safely.

As far as holster to belt connection....I probably didn't describe it clearly....I am using a three inch belt to give a little more lower back support so what I did was cut two pieces of heavy leather exactly the same as the loops on my holsters, snug fit. Trimmed them so they don't show glaringly, sewed one side of the piece to the belt, slipped the holster on and then fastened the other end with two chicago screws so I can easily change holsters if I need to.

outrider · January 24, 2006, 07:08:42 AM

Hi Rascal Ralph:

Which Tandy (Gormley) patterns are you referring too. They have several designs available.

Outrider

Rascal Ralph · January 24, 2006, 11:58:43 AM

Howdy Outrider! I've built both the "Lawdog" and the "Cattleman" holsters. I did find a way to secure the holsters with out riviting them to the belt. Put that on a different post. Have you made any others of his holsters, and did you like them? Rascal Ralph.

outrider · January 25, 2006, 12:25:14 PM

Howdy Rascal Ralph:

Yes..I have also made the 49er style slim jim holster, and the Cheyenne variant...I have also modified the 49er pattern to include belt loop integral with the holster, as opposed to having it a separate loop. The other mod was to add an attached loop around the holster...that looks really sharp. The two that I made as prototypes were both made with applied "lizard skin"..they look good but I feel the skin is to overwhelming...I will try and post some pics of those two holsters (one strong side and one crossdraw).

Outrider