Separated casing stuck in sizer die

[Black River Smith]

How can I get the casing body out of a sizing die.  Yes, I did have lube on the shell but the base separated from the body when attempting to remove it.

The caliber is 32-20 and the die is an older Herters chrome plated type.

I tried a broken screw remover.  Very gently.  It would not twist the casing or pull out.
I tried a wooden dowel inserted into the cavity and then tried to hammer it out with a brass pin through the top.  Nothing.  Also tried this same thing with applying heat to the die body with paint remover heater.  Just enough to not be able to hold in bare hand.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.  I can't replace this die.

[DeaconKC]

Find a wood screw that will cut into the sides of the stuck brass case and then pul that out.

[Coal Creek Griff]

I've used a few methods, but this has worked most constantly.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011809648?srsltid=AfmBOorUOpjYAAypXjtMfsJSzKazC7SXWhDUslOz_Z5Aqp_EY2YvFy08&pid=504741

[Black River Smith]

Coal Creek that tool is for when the thick base and primer hole is intact.  My issue is the base is separated from the body.

Deacon, I will try that approach.  I have enough of those around here.

Also, I have now tried the round file trick for removing brass from chambers but that did not work even after soaking in kerosene and ATF.  Will be soaking overnight now.

Thanks guys.

[Coal Creek Griff]

Got it -- I guess I didn't read carefully enough. Sorry. If I had a large enough tap, I'd give that a try, although it would create risk of damaging the die if it cut through the brass. I've heard of people sharpening and flattening brazing rod to remove separated cases from chambers. The idea is to drive it between the case and the chamber/die wall to buckle the case and reduce the diameter. Hopefully you've already gotten it out.

Griff

[wildman1]

Got it -- I guess I didn't read carefully enough. Sorry. If I had a large enough tap, I'd give that a try, although it would create risk of damaging the die if it cut through the brass. I've heard of people sharpening and flattening brazing rod to remove separated cases from chambers. The idea is to drive it between the case and the chamber/die wall to buckle the case and reduce the diameter. Hopefully you've already gotten it out.

Griff

I have a piece of brass welding rod I have used works great.
wM1

[DJ]

You might try filling it with Cerosafe like you were doing a chamber casting and then knocking it out with a brass rod.  I have done that with a case head separation in a rifle and it worked well.  You'd want to be careful to get the Cerosafe past the lip of the neck on your stuck case, but not into the threads for the decapping pin.  If you mess it up it's pretty easy to melt out and try again.

[Black River Smith]

Thanks for the new ideas.  In roughly 35 years of reloading, this is a first for me.  I do not like this task for fears of a damaging outcome.  But I got to get this out.

Thought about sanding the brass thin from the inside with 800 grit paper but I don't know just how long that would take.  Then working it all loose.

[DeaconKC]

Good luck and keep us posted so we can learn too.

[RoyceP]

Might be time to order a new set of dies. Herters went out of business decades ago. Likely you already got your moneys worth from that set.

[Coffinmaker]

My immediate solution has already been alluded to.  Next to last resort was to form a sharp "spade" tip on a hard brass rod or a sharp Point.  Driving the rod under (between) the case and the die wall.  Failing that, I try and hit the "file Box" from across the room.  Then seek a replacement.

[Black River Smith]

I've heard of people sharpening and flattening brazing rod to remove separated cases from chambers. The idea is to drive it between the case and the chamber/die wall to buckle the case and reduce the diameter. Hopefully you've already gotten it out.

Griff

Next to last resort was to form a sharp "spade" tip on a hard brass rod or a sharp Point.  Driving the rod under (between) the case and the die wall...     Then seek a replacement.

TA-DA
Thank you gents because that did work, ultimately.  I started with a 1/8" brass rod I already had on hand,  Starting at the base section of the stuck brass and worked my way up and coating with liquid wrench in between.  Won't admit how long I spent on doing that but it was more patience then I thought I still had.  It took several reshaping of the point to get about 1/2". During this process when the brass casing looked fold enough, I tried hammering a flat-nose brass pin from the neck down, to get the casing out.  Several attempts did not work.  So that evening I bought Brass brazing rod from Amazon.  It arrived today about an hour or so ago (~1:45 -- now 3:00).  So, I shaped a point to this material and decide to now work the neck area through the 1/2" diameter opening in the head of the die.  After 4 careful creases in the neck.  I put the flat-nose brass pin into the top again making contact with the folded neck crease and gave it about 4 gentle taps and the piece popped right out.  Happy to say the least.

Now looking at the die there appear to some circular lines around the bottom about 3/16" up.  I do not think they were from my file attempt because they seem to go all the way around.  I will slowly try to polish them out with 800 to 1000 grit sand paper and car polishes.  If I am not totally satisfied I will be ----

Looking for a replacement Herters die.  This set is too nice of a condition to give up on it.

Thank you all --- Thank you for the suggestions.  Appreciated them, it got the job done.

[Coal Creek Griff]

Excellent!  Thanks for reporting back.

Griff

[Coffinmaker]

  Black River

My suggestion for polishing would be 2000 and 3000 Wet/Dry.  Make a "Flap Sander"

[Black River Smith]

Black River

My suggestion for polishing would be 2000 and 3000 Wet/Dry.  Make a "Flap Sander"

Thanks for suggested grits and yes I do use a flap like method with only Wet/Dry papers.  Doll rod with slit that holds a folded piece of sandpaper(for double sided affect) long enough to roll around the stick and fit into the die body.  Everything is well oiled with gun oil before and during the turning.  I find that most dies are not large enough for a taped on length of paper around the rod, so I use the above approach.

I have not started this job 'yet' in earnest, so thanks for the timely - appreciated comment.

[wildman1]

I had a set of early Winchester dies that had a sticking problem. They looked fine when I shined a light into them. I soaked them in atf for a day and small rust flakes came out into the bottom of the jar of atf. I cleaned them of all the atf and out them back into use and had no more sticking problem.
wM1

[Black River Smith]

I brought this post back up for an update.

Since Nov 2, I did buy and use the 2000 & 3000 grit papers and got to a point that I thought the die was smoother.  I then had to stopping working on it to do other jobs.  The more I thought on what I was seeing inside the die, I decided to buy 4000 & 5000 grit but ended up with 5000 & 7000. The bottom line is upon getting back to it today, I truly believe I polished out what I perceived 'to be' the issue, ending with a nicely polished body and neck.

Testing it produced a nice clean, no mars, in anyway on the brass.  All original dimensions have been retained.

Thank you all, very much, for the suggestions and advice.

I have salvaged a nice 'vintage' set of dies.  I appreciate that, greatly.

[DeaconKC]

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