1851 Front Sight

[Smokey Dave]

A journey of a thousand miles, begins with the first step.

Nice work Marshal.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Isn't that the truth. Thanks Dave.

[Coffinmaker]

  Marshal   

Nah Nah Nah    My not at all so humble suggestion would have been to drill the frame and flatten/polish the back of the hand and install a Coil Spring and Plunger for the hand.  Although:

Pietta have redesigned their hand spring.  The old one was very thin and just bent on the end.  The new one is of sterner stuff and has a "hump" at the end.  Installed, very little tension on the spring.  Actually, just enough to maintain correct hand contact with the star.  I left the "new" hand in a pair of recent build Snubbies to see how long they last.  I personally may never find out. 

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I considered that because it's definitely the best way to go. However, Brownells was out of the springs and the plunger by itself isn't going to do anything. Perhaps later on when they restock I'll order them and do that. It's not like it's hard to take one of these things apart.

I didn't know they re-designed the springs. Mine was one of the old thin ones that seem to break within 100 rounds.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Today saw some progress. I ground then draw filed the lug under the barrel. As long as I was at it, I draw filed the sides, too. Then I sanded to 400 since that was the finest I had and buffed it on the polishing wheel some. I cleaned it somewhat then wiped touch-up bluing on it to keep the bare metal from corroding until I can get to doing the rest of the work on the barrel, like the sight (which is what this thread was about in the first place) and some other fiddling. I'll re-blue the whole thing when all the modifications are done.

I learned a couple things. The flat sides aren't flat and the barrel is actually tapered rather than straight sided. My soft grip vice jaw inserts wouldn't hold it tightly enough so I had to re-do some aluminum ones I had and cover those with blue tape to hold it secure enough to do the work. Also, it was as though the lettering on the side of the barrel was done with a sledge. It was deep. I had to take off quite a bit of material to get all the writing.

The lug filled the dovetail for the most part but you can still see some of the mark left where the factory pressed the dovetail tight on the piece originally. It looks like I filed the bottom more on one side than the other but the mark was actually deeper on one side. I didn't want to take enough off to completely hide that. You can still see a slight line on the side flat, too, but it isn't enough to make much difference. After it's all finished I'll decide whether to fill that any. And after I get the front sight mounted, I'll decide if I'll cut the barrel off to 4-1/4" or not. I 'shopped a photo until the dovetail was noticeable so you could see what I mean.

[Coffinmaker]

   Ah HA   

OK, Listen up Pilgrim.  Here's some knowledge.  It don't come cheap.  I'll be sending ya an invoice.
You will need a nice NEW 3/32 drill.  Perhaps two.  The parts you need are:

Ruger Pawl Spring Plunger SS  # 780-001-231  and  Ruger Cylinder Latch/Pawl Plunger Spring. # 780-000-464.  The hole is drilled off center of the Back Strap screw hole, to the right.  The hole is NOT drilled square to the frame.  It is angled slightly down.  Use plenty of oil on the drill.  You snap it off in the frame and the frame is TOAST.  If you desire, I'll take a completed Cap Gun conversion frame apart and send you some Tin Types.  That'll cost ya extra.  TBD.

Next:  Atz a righteous job making filler for the lug slot.  Were it I, and I didn't need to re-blue the whole shebang, I stick the filler back in with RED lactate (Loctite)  and call it good.  Somebody wants to inspect that job that close, HIT 'em wid it 

PS:  Drilling into the hand channel WILL produce a Burr.  You'll have to go into the hand channel and file/stone it (the burr) off.

PSS:  I ever mention I hate Spel Czech??

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks on the lug filler, pard. It went fairly quickly and easily.

OK, then. I'll convert the spring over as soon as I get the parts. I just checked and they are still back ordered. As to drills, I have probably two or three shiny new 3/32" ones in my extra drill box. I've been wanting to do a conversion for that anyway. I have some thin cutting fluid that cools the drill and helps it cut like going though butter. I have a bunch of stuff to do to the frame anyway so I'll get that done then.

I expect the angle of the hole should go in somewhat perpendicular to the back of the hand slot. Ideally, at what place should it contact the hand when the hammer is down? Also, would it help to harden the hand a bit where the pawl touches? Also, would it be advantageous to put the spring in with a set screw? I know it isn't really necessary but it could be nice when taking the grip frame off for new grips.

[Coffinmaker]

  Arrrrrrahga   

Sent some stuff.  Forgot a couple of points.  I see no need to Harden the hand.  I haven't been able to wear one out.  I've tried.  The plunger will/should contact the hand just ahead of where the spring use to be.  Tin Type of Sample Coming.  Watch this space.

Hide and Watch

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks, I'll just harden the tip of it, then. Much appreciated.

[Smokey Dave]

That is a damn fine job on the barrel lug Marshal! Looks great.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks, Dave. It worked out fine in the end. It wasn't all that much work, either.

[Rube Burrows]

Looking good. Sure wish those tin types were posted here too so we could follow along with those also.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I thought it would be good to post a photo to show the front sight and how it came out to bring conclusion to this thread.

In the end, I thinned a nickel down to smooth on both sides, making it .055 thick. From that I filed sort of an SAA-shaped sight.



Then I stacked up a couple Dremel cutoff discs and cut a groove in the barrel to accept the sight. (This photo is of a different barrel but it shows how it was done. On the barrel for this pistol, I started the groove right at the hole for the front sight.)



A little silver solder and bingo, it was done. A little too tall but that gives room to sight it in with a file. This photo was taken before I cleaned the excess solder off and polished it up some.



I decided I didn't want an 1851 anyway so I made a few other modifications and turned it into a Dance which is covered in another thread. After sighting it in, it came out quite nice, a little taller than an original but right on the money with the loads I wanted to use. The final shape I made as close to an original Dance sight as I could get, allowing for the additional height. Notice that where I filled the barrel lug dovetail isn't even noticeable.

[Rube Burrows]

Man that sure looks sharp.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thank you, Rube. It was a fun project.