Winchester 1897 Action Slide Screwhole Stripped

[ahedgpe]

I have an old winchester 1897 that has the action slide with 3 screws that holds the wood forend on. One of the screw holes is stripped out. I've tried the toothpick trick, aluminum, rebuilding the threads with jb weld, etc.

I have some Locktite Form-a-Thread on the way.  I thought about trying a longer screw, but I'm unsure of the thread pitch.

Anyone have experience with, or other ideas to be able to tighten it down but still be able to take it off, if needed, in the future?

[Pettifogger]

Toothpick trick?  At first I thought I misread this.  The toothpick trick is for WOOD.  The three screw 97s are prone to wear and once the wood or fore end tube is damaged hard to fix.  There are no parts other than what you can find on EBay.  Converting to the more secure forend found on the D and E model 97s is almost cost prohibitive if you could even find the parts.  You can't use a longer screw as it would bind up on the magazine tube.  Assuming the wood is still good and you still have the metal eschucheons that go in the wood the best solution is to weld up the hole and drill and tap it for a new screw.  The threads are close to, but not exactly, 10-32.  If the existing hole(s) is stripped it is unlikely you will find a screw or a tap the correct original size.  If it was me I would weld up the hole and drill and tap it 10-32.  Then I would make or alter a 10-32 filister head screw to fit.

I checked my 1893 (same fore arm and screw set-up).  What I would do is buy these and run it in the hole.  The pitch is close enough that I think the screw would conform to the hole. 

https://www.rtumber.top/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=487985

[ahedgpe]

Toothpick trick?  At first I thought I misread this.  The toothpick trick is for WOOD.  The three screw 97s are prone to wear and once the wood or fore end tube is damaged hard to fix.  There are no parts other than what you can find on EBay.  Converting to the more secure forend found on the D and E model 97s is almost cost prohibitive if you could even find the parts.  You can't use a longer screw as it would bind up on the magazine tube.  Assuming the wood is still good and you still have the metal eschucheons that go in the wood the best solution is to weld up the hole and drill and tap it for a new screw.  The threads are close to, but not exactly, 10-32.  If the existing hole(s) is stripped it is unlikely you will find a screw or a tap the correct original size.  If it was me I would weld up the hole and drill and tap it 10-32.  Then I would make or alter a 10-32 filister head screw to fit.

I checked my 1893 (same fore arm and screw set-up).  What I would do is buy these and run it in the hole.  The pitch is close enough that I think the screw would conform to the hole. 

https://www.rtumber.top/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=487985

Toothpick was a last desperate attempt to get some traction in the screw-hole, and not my finest moment...  Thank you for the sound advice.  I actually have a set of these screws coming (from this same seller) that I bought on ebay!  The wood and escutcheons are still good. If the loctite Form-a-Thread doesn't work, I will be using the method you refer to, by welding the hole and then drill/tap a new hole for the new screws. 

[ahedgpe]

What do you think about using heli-coils? Found them for 10-32 NF.  They are about 1/4" long, so I would need to trim a little.

https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5528-3-10-32-Thread-Repair/dp/B000RFOOO6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=10-32+helicoil+kit&qid=1612127800&sr=8-3

[Coffinmaker]

Well heck.  Initially Pettifogger bet me to the draw.  Personally, and Professionally, I see absolutely no reason to begin a bunch of "stop-gap" almost fixes.  Do it right the first time.

When you get your screws in, match the thread/pitch with the appropriate drill and tap, make a template so you know where to drill, weld up the hole then drill and tap for a new screw.

Stay Safe Out There

[ahedgpe]

Well heck.  Initially Pettifogger bet me to the draw.  Personally, and Professionally, I see absolutely no reason to begin a bunch of "stop-gap" almost fixes.  Do it right the first time.

When you get your screws in, match the thread/pitch with the appropriate drill and tap, make a template so you know where to drill, weld up the hole then drill and tap for a new screw.

Stay Safe Out There

Im slightly worried about burning through the metal around the screwhole, being that the metal is so thin in that area.

[ahedgpe]

Well, I bit the shotgun shell and had my dad, who is a good welder, weld up the hole.  I ground it down flat inside and out.  drilled and tapped with a 5/32 drill and 10-32 NF tap.  Couldn't be happier!  Hopefully the drill and tap size will help someone else out, as I couldnt find exact info on the screw size and pitch anywhere outside of this thread.  Thanks for your help!