Uberti 3rd Model Dragoon arbor wedge shaped?

[Im2bent]

Hello all new guy here. I just purchased a brand new Uberti Dragoon and I am going through the tuning steps as described in the Pettifogger articles. At the beginning to part 3 he describes checking the fit of the arbor to the barrel. Basically install the barrel at a 90 to the frame and then twist it to see how far off the fit is. When I disassembled the pistol I had to use the rammer to remove the barrel it was very tight. When trying to do this test the barrel wedges on the arbor leaving an 1/8 inch gap as in the arbor is super long. But it is not that the arbor is long its just wedging before seating. My question is should the arbor be a uniform diameter along its length? My arbor measures .509 at the tip in front of the wedge slot and where the arbor transitions from smooth to ridged behind the wedge slot it is .529 in diameter. This is still on the smooth part not the fatter ridged portion. So basically this wedge is causing an interference fit. Is this normal? Any suggestions would be most welcome.

[Coffinmaker]

Well Hi there Im2bent.

Welcome to the joys of Uberti Barrel to Arbor fit problems.  the Arbor should be pretty close to a uniform diameter.  Most Uberti aren't.  You're not experiencing anything "un-normal" for a Uberti.

First step, make a "strap" of 220 Wet/Dry.  Clamp the frame in a padded vice.  Use the strap as polishing a shoe.  Keep turning the frame in the vice so you polish evenly.  Also make a Flap Sander out of a chunk of dowel.  You will want to wind up with a folded flap of 220 Wet/dry.  Your first strap should be about an inch wide, the length of the paper stock.  Your flap sander should be a length of paper the same as your first flap, folded in half.  Make the slot in your dowel the depth the folded piece is wide.  Cut to length so your stick is completely wrapped.  Chuck it u inna drill and run it into the Arbor Hole in the back of the barrel lug.  Run the flap sander in and out to eliminate any burrs.  Then polish with 800 grit.  As you work, try fit FREQUENTLY.  Getting a Uberti to set up is NOT fun.

[Im2bent]

Thanks for the quick reply Coffinmaker , I had a feeling it should be a uniform diameter but I wanted to make sure before I started doing irreversible mods. thought maybe this might be Ubertis "fix" for the short arbor issues. Got the gun from Midway 365.00 for that price you really cant complain about qc issues. The gun is really nice looking and with a little help should be a fun shooter.

[Im2bent]

So I got the arbor to fit nicely and went through the process of making the button for the arbor. Now the wedge hole does not align enough to allow the wedge to engage the far side of the barrel. The wedge goes through the arbor but will not engage the other side. You can clearly see about a 1/16 of the arbor intruding in the path. I have .016 clearance between the face of the cylinder and the barrel. Take some off the button even though this will cause the barrel to sit a bit too far back on the frame or enlarge the arbor wedge hole?

[Coffinmaker]

Neither.  Re-Fit the wedge.

Wait a sec.  Let me re-think that answer.  The wedge needs to press against the FRONT of the Arbor Slot and bare against the BACK of the barrel slot to lock the barrel to the gun.  With the locator pin area of the barrel flush to the frame when fully seated on the Arbor.  From what you describe, the wedge is trying to take the gun apart???   

[Im2bent]

No the wedge is trying to crush the gun

[Coffinmaker]

OK.  If the wedge is trying to seriously shove the two major parts together .... rework the wedge to fit.  I'd also suggest you source up a new wedge or two just incase you get it wrong the first try.

You should be able to "seat" the wedge with Thumb pressure.  To remove, either thumb pressure (Unfired) or a light tap from a screwdriver handle after firing.  Wedges tend to tighten up as the gun is fired.

[Im2bent]

Wedge needed a lot of material removed but now fits perfectly. I am concerned about the .016 play in the cylinder is this excessive? The action is super smooth now and  I stoned the sear it is silky smooth with no creep and about 3lbs pull.

[wildman1]

Does it have the play when the hammer is cocked?
wM1

[Im2bent]

Yes it does

[Im2bent]

Ok upon further reading what I have is endshake? This corrected by use of a bushing behind the cylinder?

[45 Dragoon]

 Hey CM!! Been real busy but I peek in now and then .  .  .  (    ) was just listening to "the long and winding road"   

Gotta go .  .  . 

Thuther Mike

[Coffinmaker]

Ah Ha 

"End Shake" or what is often called End Shake in percussion guns is Normal ("Normal" is a setting on your clothes dryer).  The amount of movement in the cylinder, fore and aft is what comes into question.  Normally, the movement of the cylinder is dependent of Barrel to Cylinder Gap.  Percussions guns do not have "bushings."  Most of us would consider .006 to .008 barrel to cylinder gap as "good."  .016 would be excessive.  The hand will push the cylinder up against the barre breach when the gun is cocked.  Upon firing, the cylinder will move back to the breach ring on the recoil shield .... VIOLENTLY.   Happens every shot.  The real question is whether or not the hammer face reaches the nipples with the cylinder fully forward. 

[Im2bent]

Thank you for your reply Coffinmaker. Looking at how this pistol functions it seems that the only thing indexing the cylinder is the bolt. With the hammer down the bolt fully engages the cylinder notch and the cylinder is "locked" in place. Like this I have exactly .015 with the wedge in. I cannot move the cylinder easily by hand it is locked. At half cock the bolt is retracted and at this point I can move the cylinder back and forth and the cylinder can be pushed forward and closes the gap. At full cock the cylinder is locked by the bolt as it is with the hammer fully down. Holding the pistol level and watching the cylinder as I pull the hammer to full cock and then slowly easing the hammer down while holding the trigger back the hand does not move the cylinder against the barrel the gap remains the same .015". As far as the hammer contacting the nipples it appears that the hammer stops exactly as it comes into contact with the surface of the nipple. With the hammer fully down if I force the cylinder forward overriding the bolt the hammer does not budge so it is not resting on the nipple. Looking carefully at the nipple/hammer contact there is no visible gap so I have to conclude that the hammer face is stopping exactly at the surface of the nipple. So should I take .005" off the button I installed to close the cylinder barrel gap to .010"? Or is something else going on?

[Coffinmaker]

With the barrel seated fully against your added "button" the bottom of barrel lug should be tight to the water table and locator pins.  If it is, LEAVE IT ALONE.  If not, Why Not??

Have you attempted to shoot this gun yet??  It's about time to quit messing with it and find out if it works.  Then proceed to "if not"  "Why not"

[Im2bent]

Ha!!! You are absolutely right.