HELP,,,OPINIONS,,EXPERT ADVICE !!

[willy]

Just got a new UBERTI hammer (without safety)  and correct size pawl to switch out with the old hammer with safety,,Everything fell into place ,
1.safety notch catches
2.bolt drops at half cock
3.bolt snaps back at full cock
4.PROBLEM...Trigger does not catch at full cock,,,New hammer full cock notch is lower than old hammers full cock notch,,
So,,,Do I take down the hammer notch ?$$$$$$$
or ..take down the trigger sear?

[Abilene]

Not sure which kind of safety hammer you are talking about.  The type the Cattleman has had for many years with a block below the firing pin, or the new type with retractable firing pin?

Since you mentioned getting a new hand as well, I am guessing you are talking about the old style.  But in either case, I think you need a new trigger to match.

Summary 1: replace old Cattleman hammerblock safety hammer by using standard no-safety hammer, matching pawl, and matching trigger.  I was thinking maybe a new bolt needed as well, but maybe not.  Been a long time since I changed one of these.

Summary 2: replace new Cattleman 2 safety hammer with retractable firing pin by using standard no-safety hammer and matching trigger.

I only know of Summary 2 since a guy on the SASS Wire replaced his by just using a standard hammer and trigger.

Note that the above advice comes under "Opinions" not "Expert Advice" but I'm sure the experts will show up soon and confirm or deny 

[Pettifogger]

I would never remove material from the hammer except as a last resort.  I might also not remove material from the trigger.  I would look at the lower tooth of the hand and its relationship to when the bolt drops.  Removing material from the lower tooth of the hand allows the hammer to move back further.

[willy]

Thanks for the ideas.

[45 Dragoon]

Willy,
 Unless there is interference with the hammer hitting the backstrap before full cock engagement (check with hand removed), the cycle length is from at rest to full cock. In that travel, everything happens when it's supposed to. The first action parts put in a Colt type S.A. are the hammer and the trigger. That defines the length of cycle.
When the safety notch is reached, the firing pin should be completely out of the cylinder window, bolt still in locking notch.
Further movement of the hammer should have bolt retracting immediately.
As soon as the bolt head clears the cylinder, the hand should start cylinder carry up.
As half cock is reached, cylinder is free to spin/remove/ install.
As cycle continues from half cock, bolt should "drop" (onto cylinder) in the approach one bolt width before the locking notch.
 When full cock is reached, the bolt should engage the locking notch at the same instant sounding as one click. (Checked with a finger dragging on the cyl.)

If the cylinder locks up before full cock, second finger is too long. If full cock is reached before cyl lockup, hand needs to be stretched or replaced.
 Make sure the bolt arm (left one) falls off the front of the cam, not sliding off the side of the cam. This can be seen from the bottom  (sans trigger guard) or the top, watching down the hammer slot.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

[willy]

.
 When full cock is reached, the bolt should engage the locking notch at the same instant sounding as one click. (Checked with a finger dragging on the cyl.)

If the cylinder locks up before full cock, second finger is too long. If full cock is reached before cyl lockup, hand needs to be stretched or replaced.
 Make sure the bolt arm (left one) falls off the front of the cam, not sliding off the side of the cam. This can be seen from the bottom  (sans trigger guard) or the top, watching down the hammer slot.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com


Thanks Mike I will check that out.

Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks