RCBS and recommended bullet lube

Started by Shenandoah, March 09, 2017, 07:02:40 PM

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Shenandoah

I have a Lyman mould I used for smokeless loads. I recently started using FFG for the Armi Spencer carbine and when using the lubri-sizer with SPG lube, the lube would get all over the bullet (not just the grooves).

I just purchased a RCBS mould and want to try pan lube for the bullets.

Anyone have any experience/comments with pan lubing and recommended lube recepies? 

steved66

I use extensively the pan lubing technique and just did my first batch of Spencer bullets this way.  Worked well.  The lube I use is a 50/50 mix of beeswax and canola oil.  I still use the same batch I mixed up in 2012.  I use an 8" x 8" non-stick baking pan.  The operation is pretty simple.  To avoid direct heat, melt the beeswax by putting the pot onto an iron flat cooking surface used to make pancakes.  Once the wax is melted, stir in the canola oil.  The mixture is then poured into the baking pan, now sitting on the hot surface to keep warm.  Stand one bullet in the middle and fill the pan to the proper depth (this avoids dripping the lube onto the tops of the bullets).  Then I use a heavy tweezers to place the bullets in to the lube, and let the pan stand overnight to fully cool.  When fully hardened, I removed the "brick" of lube/bullets and place it bottom down onto a couple of layers of bubble wrap.  I then place one end of a short section of dowel onto the top of the bullet and punch down on the other end with a wooden mallet, which crisply pops the bullet loose from the lube, but still contained within the solid brick.  I punch all of the bullets first to get them free from the lube, then I push them out by hand.  If I plan to run a next batch of the same bullet or slightly smaller diameter, I keep the "brick" in one piece (looks like Swiss cheese), then the next batch I just place the solid lube back into the pan and stand the bullets into the open holes, heat the pan on the iron skillet until all of the lube melts around the bullets, then let cool. 

Shenandoah

Thanks Steve,

I have watched several internet videos on the process. I wanted to have some first hand recommendations from Spencer users.

The Spencer is now relegated to BP only.

Blair

Shenandoah,

If you plan on using BP, I would suggest you stay with natural lubes like beeswax and some sort of high temp cooking oil.
The petroliem based oils don't seem to work well with the fowling you can get from BP.
The 50-50 beeswax and cooking oil seems to work very well depending on the time of year you wish to be shooting. More beeswax  during the summer and more oil during the winter.
Many formulas are available. It just depends on the area you live. All maybe correct, none maybe be right.
My best,
Blair
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Whede is "Dutch" when you need him. Apparently oils can be classified by their drying time. I found out that if I oiled a piece with canola it would become an irremovable gum in no time! It is a "drying" oil. Olive oil on the other hand, is a "non-drying" oil. You can wipe a gun with it and it stays liquid, and the same when oiling leather goods.

I use olive oil when softening BP bullet lubes. My formula is lamb fat, bees wax church candle stubs, and olive oil.
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El Supremo

Hello:

Have had good results with either Steve Garby's SPG or MCM lube via John Dewald at North East Trade Company in Muncy, PA.

Both are 100% natural with zero petro chemicals and have been proven over many years of use in BPCR and skirmishing.

One thing about mixing your own:  Lots of beeswax is not pure enough and contains "fillers".  To be reliable, beeswax should be "food" not cosmetically pure.   

Regards,
El Supremo/Kevin Tinny

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