Loose Arbor

[Niederlander]

Gentlemen,  I bought a used Uberti '60 Army, and now I discover the arbor is slightly loose.  Is there a a fix for that?

[Pettifogger]

Depends on what you mean by "slightly."  If it is only slightly loose but the gun is tight when the wedge is in don't worry about it.  If it is really loose you have to drill out the staking pin and remove the arbor.  Clean everything real good and apply some red loctite and reinstall the arbor.  Put on the barrel and install the wedge and let the loctite dry.  At that point you can reinstall the staking pin but it really isn't necessary with the red loctite.  Of course since this is a Uberti before you waste any time on the wobble fix the arbor to barrel fit first.  Then tighten up the arbor.

[Niederlander]

Thank you!  What is the correct arbor/barrel/wedge fit?

[Pettifogger]

http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=7988.0

[Niederlander]

Thank you!  Printing that off now.  I'm going to fix ALL of my open tops eventually!

[Hoof Hearted]

Even with red locktite that arbor won't stay tight unless you set the shoulder back and tighten it up and clock it to the wedge slot........

[Pettifogger]

Hoof good to see you back on-line.  Depends on how "loose" it is.  Red holds just fine as long as the arbor isn't wobbling.  I.e., LOOSE.  The only problem with setthing the shoulder back is that it takes a lathe and once done then you have to fix the slot in the arbor because it will be set back as well and the wedge won't go through the barrel slot fit into the arbor.  Also have to do some grinding where the arbor now sticks out into the hammer channel.  I always try to do the easiest thing first.  Red will fill the threads and do a good job unless the arbor is really LOOSE. 

[Niederlander]

Got a new wedge, and everything is tight when it's in.

[Hoof Hearted]

Hoof good to see you back on-line.  Depends on how "loose" it is.  Red holds just fine as long as the arbor isn't wobbling.  I.e., LOOSE.  The only problem with setthing the shoulder back is that it takes a lathe and once done then you have to fix the slot in the arbor because it will be set back as well and the wedge won't go through the barrel slot fit into the arbor.  Also have to do some grinding where the arbor now sticks out into the hammer channel.  I always try to do the easiest thing first.  Red will fill the threads and do a good job unless the arbor is really LOOSE. 

Larsen, It cant be loose without the shoulder having rolled over. It tightens up exactly the same as a screw in revolver barrel, the threads do not hold it tight, the shoulder does. If you study one a bit you will figure out how to "set the shoulder back". I cannot comprehend how you can set the shoulder back by using a lathe unless it is a magical one......

I perform this service and, replace the pin, using 620 Threadlocker (the same product I put barrel liners in with). If the arbor fit is correct then I guarantee them for the life of the gun. Cost is $80.00

[Pettifogger]

We must be talking about two different things.  The arbor has a shoulder where it contacts the frame.  If I am going to set the arbor back, i.e., cut some materiall off the back of the arbor so it will screw in further, I chuck it in a lathe and cut it so the shoulder is square with the mating surface on the frame.  Maybe I am missing something.

[Hoof Hearted]

We must be talking about two different things.  The arbor has a shoulder where it contacts the frame.  If I am going to set the arbor back, i.e., cut some materiall off the back of the arbor so it will screw in further, I chuck it in a lathe and cut it so the shoulder is square with the mating surface on the frame.  Maybe I am missing something.

Yes! You are...lol
I am talking about setting the SHOULDER back
You are talking about setting the whole ARBOR back

[Pettifogger]

I guess I am having a mental obstruction.  If the shoulder of the arbor is rounded and you square it up you have to remove some material.  If you do that the arbor moves rearward.  Are we talking about a different shoulder?  For some reason I can't visualize what you are saying or referring to.

Do you have any photos of the latest version of your Thuer cylinders?  If so, where can I find them to give them a look?

[Hoof Hearted]

I guess I am having a mental obstruction.  If the shoulder of the arbor is rounded and you square it up you have to remove some material.  If you do that the arbor moves rearward.  Are we talking about a different shoulder?  For some reason I can't visualize what you are saying or referring to.

Do you have any photos of the latest version of your Thuer cylinders?  If so, where can I find them to give them a look?

Larsen, there is a reason that "two heads are better than one" and I frequently argue way more than wanted with Walt about things like this but with a part in hand it would be obvious. You really ought to call me sometime!

The new Thuer® DROP IN is based on the Original Thuer® that I only sell as installed. I just added to Reb Holloway's post above but I seldom post pics to Photobucket (so attaching them here is a PITA). Let me know if the link up there works for you and GIVE ME A CALL

HH