Pietta 1851 navy

Fingers McGee · May 18, 2016, 06:33:08 PM

Quote from: Gabriel Law on May 18, 2016, 04:43:34 PM
...except for one thing!

It is exceedingly difficult to cap the nipples. Has anyone found this and what did they do about it?

TDC revolver (snail) capper is the way to go. I've never had a problem capping replica Colt revolvers with one; although, I've had to do a little filing on the nose to get some to fit properly.

Gabriel Law · May 19, 2016, 10:34:43 AM

I agree that the Ted Cash 'snail' capper is the best tool for the job, and all of my other revolvers cap fine with it. But there Pietta's hang up. My Uberti 1860 has a recess cut into the shield cut-out to allow you to get the cap in line with the nipple, but the Pietta 1851 does not. Has anyone thought of relieving the access port just a tad to make it easier to get the caps on?

Coffinmaker · May 19, 2016, 10:10:20 PM

Gabriel,

There is an eons old adage we who practiced the trade of Gun Plumbing live by. ALWAYS try to change or modify the CHEAPEST part
first. The cheapest part you have is the Snail Capper. Lightly file the nose of the capper and try that first. Attacking the frame of you
guns with a sharp and abrasive object is the LAST option. You cannot put the CCH nor the underlying steel back.

Coffinmaker

Gabriel Law · May 20, 2016, 10:29:39 AM

I agree with you 100%. I have previously reduced the metal on the tip of the capper to the minimum. I have in-line capppers that I've done the same thing too, but they can't get into the nipples either. I have no issues with a 1849 Colt pocket, a 1860 army or a 1837 Walker Colt, which are all Uberti's...it's the Pietta's that have the issue. I know that I will lose the CCH in a small area adjacent the nipple capping spot, if I remove metal there. I was hoping someone had a better idea. Placing the caps on by hand is even difficult...they have to go on at a bit of an angle first before they will line up and slip onto the tubes. The good news is that these CCI #11's fit the nipples properly. The revolver cycles and fires perfectly without losing caps or getting jams.

Kent Shootwell · May 20, 2016, 11:47:52 AM

I had the same problem capping and when I recased the frame I also recontured to allow capping. Note the sharper edges on mine compared to Gabriel's engraved ones.

Gabriel Law · May 20, 2016, 01:12:02 PM

Kent: your workmanship is excellent. I noticed that your access port was nice and clean with sharp edges. Pietta did not plan their pistols well enough, in my opinion, which leaves me no other option but to do the same as you have done.

Coffinmaker · May 20, 2016, 03:09:04 PM

I must admit to being somewhat surprised at the capping problem. I have two sets of '51s of my own and have worked on a number of others, for "others" and none of those guns have exhibited your troubles. I have no problems capping mine nor the guns I have worked
with a box stock unmodified Snail Capper. Strange that.

Coffinmaker

Lucky R. K. · May 20, 2016, 04:29:06 PM

Like Coffinmaker I am surprised to hear about your problem. I bought a pair of Pietta 1851's a while back and have had no problems with using a Cash capper to prime them. The only modifications I have made is to install Tresso nipples, fill in the hammer face with JB Weld, and slick up any rough places. I have shot two matches with them and had NO ignition problems or trouble in installing the caps (#11 CCI's). I did have a piece of cap get between the cylinder and recoil shield which required me to use my left hand to cock and clear the jam.

I am impressed with the Pietta's.

Lucky

Gabriel Law · May 20, 2016, 09:05:11 PM

Problem solved!! As you will note in the accompanying photo, I simply ground the back edges of the capper to a radius so that it aligns the cap properly. Now I can cap the pistols easily .... delighted. These are in-line cappers that hold 21 caps each. I've worked on my snail capper too, and it also works nicely now. I agree that the Pietta revolvers are nicely made and a joy to shoot.

Gabriel Law · May 24, 2016, 10:44:57 PM

Lucky: you mentioned filling the hammer faces with epoxy...what is the reason for this?

Lucky R. K. · May 25, 2016, 07:49:30 AM

Quote from: Gabriel Law on May 24, 2016, 10:44:57 PM
Lucky: you mentioned filling the hammer faces with epoxy...what is the reason for this?

I think it was a post from Pettifogger who pointed out that filling the hammer face would keep a piece of cap from sticking in the hammer groove. If this happens when re-cocking the hammer the piece could fall down into the action and create a real problem.

Lucky

Gabriel Law · June 12, 2016, 11:40:13 PM

I was out shooting my '51 Navies this morning, to test for accruacy with both round ball and Lee's 130 gr. bullet. Neither revolver likes the bullet, shooting high at 20 yds. the balls shoot level with the sights, but one revolver shoots 3 3/4" right. I ground the notch to centre the group. The other pistol shoots centre. they both shoot into about three inches offhand with the little .375" balls, and 22 gr. 3Fg GOEX. I cover the mouths of the chambers with lube grease.
Our annual CAS match, the Chilako Trials, is fast approachi9ng this weekend coming, and I'm shooting strictly BP in all my guns...the '51 Navy Pietta's, a Uberti 1860 Henry in 44-40, and my original 1887 Winchester 12 gauge.

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · June 13, 2016, 09:26:26 AM

Gabriel; In a pistol at least, the heavier the projectile the higher it will throw, regardless of velocity.

Velocity is countered by shorter barrel time which allows the projectile to leave the barrel before recoil has raised the muzzle as much. Heavier ones recoil more causing more muzzle jump...

Gabriel Law · June 13, 2016, 11:11:22 AM

Yes I understand, Sir Charles. And I used a 19 gr. load rather than 22 gr as with the ball, to accommodate the length of the slugs. I'll stick with balls.

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · June 13, 2016, 08:54:26 PM

Quote from: Gabriel Law on June 13, 2016, 11:11:22 AM
Yes I understand, Sir Charles. And I used a 19 gr. load rather than 22 gr as with the ball, to accommodate the length of the slugs. I'll stick with balls.

I have tried the LEE slugs, and agree with you that balls do everything we want a .36 to do and very well.

Coffinmaker · June 14, 2016, 07:08:19 PM

In playing with my .36s, I discovered a well kept secret. Well ..... not so well kept. Actually, not a secret at all. It's called the
EPP UG - 36 cast bullet. Strange looking critter. Big honking lube groove. I buy mine "as cast" and don't resize or lube (APP).
Simple to load since I use the marvelous "Tower of Power" (shameless plug) cylinder loading stand. Just square em up and ram
home. Very accurate. Weight, as case is around 88 - 90Gr. Perfect. Give ema try.

Coffinmaker

Gabriel Law · June 21, 2016, 01:17:23 PM

I shot my first match with the Pietta '51s this past weekend. It was a five stage match, and at the end of the day, I had misfires from one of the revolvers...caps would not ignite. When I got them back to the shop, I found that the hammer was striking the frame owing to a bit of raised steel. I simply filed it out and polished the frame in the hammer slot and now it fires without issue. Also, the hand spring on one of the revolvers cracked, and although I was able to use it ok for the side matches on Sunday, I knew I'd need to replace it. So I made a new string out of hack saw blade material (.020" thick - almost identical to the original), set it in the hand, and while I had the hands out of both pistols, I polished them along their stamped out surfaces. All is good again. Better, in truth.
I very much enjoyed shooting these revolvers, and learned a lot about them and c & b in general during the weekend.