New To The Darkest of Arts

[ILoveMy1860Army]

Thanks all you guys, really love the sense of camaraderie that goes along with all this.

Now, do any of y'all think that bore butter would be a good lubricant for the guns internals if one had nothing else at hand? I realize that, even in the wake of my spending spree, I don't have much in the ways of pure grease, so to speak. Of course I have bore butter and another substance called "T-17 natural lube" which seems like.. just a blue form of bore butter... but I'm wondering, would it work?

[ira scott]

I have used bore butter with success to grease the arbor on my C&Bs. The only thing I don't like about it is that it gets really runny, almost liquid when it's hot. My C&B shootin pard Quickfire uses Gorilla grease on his, works well, small container, relatively expensive, I recently picked up some Mobil 1  synthetic grease and tried it on a 58 Remington which doesn't hold much grease,  and it seemed to work fine. A tube of it should last a long time.

[ira scott]

I too have shot with him many times. While he was shooting 51-61s I was shooting 60 Armys.  In each case we were dealing with 1850ish engineering. They will fail!  I have had handsprings break, mainsprings break and every kind of cap failure that the guns will produce.  I watched fingers break a hand spring on one of his guns at a shoot and the next stage he broke the handspring on the other.  They will fail. The ROA is about as fool proof as is possible.
[/
quote]  Dammit Noz!  When I shoot against Fingers, his stuff don't break!  (that is the only way I would have a chance to beat him!)

[ILoveMy1860Army]

Alrighty guy's, here's another question from a newbie to the pro's. In my extensive, scholarly research of the Dark Arts and soot affiliated affairs, I came across the infamous problem of Colt cap jams. Now, I figured that to remedy that disorder, I would introduce 6 CC's of Slix-Shot cones intravenously. 

Upon the delivery of the revered cones of Slix, I decided to do a little demo and see how well my Remington #10's fit on 'em. When I first placed the caps on the cones, I saw that the base of cap, when pressed firmly but gently (I've heard of Cuts Crooked) and fully seated all the way down on the cone, actually covered up the vent holes.

Now, I thought that the whole purpose of buying Treso (hope'n I spelled that correctly) or Slix cones was to prevent the caps from being obliterated by the return pressure from the chamber in the cylinder, that makes perfect sense, but how would the cone accomplish that if both of it's vent holes was covered up? 

I have my theories. The first, and most plausible to me at least, is that when the cap is set off by the hammer, it changes shape; going from it's normal cylindrical shape to more of a widened "Reeses cup rapper" shape. The second theory is that when the cap is set off by the hammer, it's lower skirt is shattered and it is then the desired length for the vent gases to, well, vent. I can't prove this as I have never been able to examine a fired percussion cap in close detail.

Thanks, and have a nice day. 

[45 Dragoon]

 A cap post would probably be the best solution for the cap jam issue. It seems to be the most reliable solution. Without one, the caps have nothing to keep the cap frags from falling back into the action. With "spirited" cycling  of the action (even fanning) the caps generally fly out to the right like a semi-auto!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

[Bunk Stagnerg]

the barrel record on my pair of Pietta 1860 Army revolvers show somewhere north of 300 total rounds with ONE misfire caused by not caping one SlixShot nipple. Cap rake and Goonized action...as reliable as a suppository gun.
At least that is my limited experience. Between weather and health i am not shooting as much as I would like, but love the smell of the black powder smoke.
This month will be shot with "catridges" mostly because I scored a cache of 600+ .45 Cowboy Special brass about 300 with AJs fingerprints on them! Just gotta pour in some DuPont Gun Powder topped with DD's bullets and put some down range.
This is not a paid commercial.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

[ILoveMy1860Army]

May good health find you, Bunk. I'd send you a get well soon card if I could! I don't know how many people are reading this anymore but they gun arrived yesterday and I couldn't be more excited! I'm going to make another thread because of some additional questions that I have.

[Coffinmaker]

1860 Army,

I don't know where you are located on the planet.  However, for lubricant/grease, Mobile 1 Grease is very good on the Arbor and Mobile 1 5/40 motor oil is very good for the internals.

When your 1860 fires, it blows the cap into something like a flower petal but still stuck on the Slix.  That uncovers the vent holes.  Prowl around You Tube for Mike Belliview's video to cure Cap Sucking.  His is not a complete cure, but will really help.  It primarily involves de-burring and polishing of the hammer face.

Coffinmaker

[ILoveMy1860Army]

Occupy the good ole state of California, absurd gun laws not withstanding. Sierra Nevada's, near a little place called "Nevada City" if you've heard of it.

[45 Dragoon]

Thanks for the shout out Bunk!! Keep um rollin!!!!


Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

[Coffinmaker]

Amazing 1860,

I just posted to your other thread not knowing where on the planet you are located.  I happen to know exactly where your at.  I've been there.  I was originally raised in the Napa Valley.  Before the Uppies discovered it.

Coffinmaker

[ILoveMy1860Army]

Is it natural for the locking notches on the cylinder to be marred or tarnish? I get that it's metal on metal, but I'm worried that it's some how remove material and will eventually wear the cylinder out until it slips.

[Coffinmaker]

1860,
One of the first thing us Gunplumbers do, it check and correct the fit of the Bolt to Notches in the cylinder.  Some wear of the notches is to be expected.  However, all too often the assembly pukes at Uberti fiddle and file on the bolt and leave rough unfinished surfaces.  The other cause for wear of the notches is the Uberti Trigger/Bolt Spring.  Uberti frequently uses a heavy T/B spring to compensate for throw-by.  The Uberti spring either needs replaced or "tuned."  Welcome to the wonderful world of "kit" guns.

Coffinmaker

[ILoveMy1860Army]

Thanks for the information Coffin, I greatly appreciate it.  I sent an email to GoonsGunworks (I think that's the right name) as it seems he has a plethora of services for a price that almost seems too good to be true. I'm thinking that if I want it to be something I cherish for years to come, it oughta be treated nicely, and I will most certainly put down the chips to do it.

I'm assuming that with your level of expertise, you cast or own balls instead of buying them. However, I am a lesser creature than thou and must purchase my projectiles commercially. Where's a good place to get them? I'm thinking online from Hornady, but I might inquire to the local gunshops in my area and see if they have .454's.

-Respectfully, a guy that doesn't know much but hopefully will some day