Fixing arbor length.

[LonesomePigeon]

I want to try fixing the arbor length on one of my revolvers. I'm thinking I will JB Weld a washer to the end of the arbor and then dress it down 'til it fits correctly. Is there any difference between brass washers vs. steel vs. stainless steel for this purpose?

[45 Dragoon]

I do the opposite but would use steel rather than soft brass.
I don't like sticking stuff on the end of the arbor. JB holding material on the end of the arbor is probably more "fragile" than holding the same material in the bottom of a hole. Plus you get the benefit of the JB surrounding the end of the arbor (as it is slightly displaced when you re-assemble the revolver while it cures. This also helps locate/bed/isolate the end of the arbor. It also leaves the end of the arbor free to mount a set screw to use as an adjustable forward bearing for the wedge. You'll never need a new wedge!  Just my suggestion.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

[ndnchf]

There are a number of ways to deal with this problem. Here's how I did it on an 1849 pocket pistol.

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,55544.0.html

[Coffinmaker]

Yep, several ways to do it.  You can drill and tap the Arbor end for a Machine Screw (I like stainless) then dress the screw head to fit.
You can drill the Arbor end for a "plug" a la Pettifogger & ndnchf.  You can use thin washers, stacked if needs be then JB Weld into the
bore in the Barrel lug.
I'm in complete agreement with 45 Dragoon here.  If your not going use some form of shaft supported plug, A better route is to use a
number (or one) of thin washers to correct the arbor fit.  I feel, after doing a bunch of Open Top style Ubertis, the brass washers are
too malleable when in a stress position (recoil provides the stress) and have always used Stainless washers.  I have also used a plain
5mm or #10 Stainless split washer simply dropped down the hole.  Don't loose it at the range.
DO NOT forget to coat the end of the Arbor with releasing agent (Vaseline) when you stuff it back together for the JB to set.  You don't really want a "Permanent" fix 

[Montana Slim]

I've used a small standard steel washer that will drop down the arbor hole.
The washer alone is not quite thick enough for my pistols.

So.... I first turn the washer into a slight "V" shape (vise and hammer technique). Then place V-washer into the hole and assemble the whole works. If it doesn't "seat", I apply some moderate taps to the muzzle using a hardwood "smacker" until it gives the fit I'm looking for. Disassemble, smear a dob of grease on the washer and re-install. The grease will keep the washer from falling out unexpectedly.

You can use the overall thickness of the washer to later make a solid shim, or use JB weld, etc to more permanently attach the V-washer.

I'm still using this "temporary" solution (with grease) on a pair of 1851's. Only fired about 1500 rounds on each gun, but it's still working as intended.

Slim

[Coffinmaker]

Hey Slim,
A man after my own heart.  I first started advising folks about using a #10 Split or 5mm Split washer some years ago, to give the
folks at home, who don't have ready access to a lathe or a gunsmith with a lathe a method of resolving the Arbor Fit issue with
Uberti Open Top type of guns.
It's not real elegant nor Hi-Tec, but it works surprisingly well.  Just have to remember it's (the washer) is in there if you don't epoxy
it in place.  The little dab of grease is usually enough to keep it in place.

Coffinmaker