I just read that Ballistol...

[PJ Hardtack]

Surprise, surprise .... whodathunk it? Beats the hell out of putting one into the dishwasher. I may try it as I just bought a container of liquid non-aerosol Ballistol.

Do you pull the nipples as part of your cleaning process? That's the one chore that irks me with cap & ball.

[Crow Choker]

Do you pull the nipples as part of your cleaning process? That's the one chore that irks me with cap & ball.

In response to PJ's question, I do pull the nipples off when cleaning. It's the part of cap n' ball revolver shooting I detest and wish I could have the conscience not to do, but not doing it bothers me. It's like brushing only my top teeth and not the bottoms. I have just used brushes, Q-tips, and such to clean the nipples and the area around them, but there is always black residue that seems to stick no matter how diligent I am and hate to leave it on the metal surface. I once put the cylinder with nipples on in a pail of hot soapy water, held the cylinder under the solution with my left hand, and took a small air compressor wand and blew the 'begeebers' out of every spot on the cylinder and nipples. Cleaned it all pretty good, but was messy as soapy water blew all over to. Did outside to prevent any mess inside. May try again some time-have to maybe wear a slicker and googles. I get through the pain ITB process each time, but if my revolvers are not going to be shot again within the next few days or so, I pull the nipples off and give all a good cleaning, not doing so invites corrosion IMO.
For what it's worth, I repeat my like and high fives for Ballistol and all the good reviews I've read here, including the smell. I've seen vehicle air freshener's with Hoppes #9 scent, maybe some offering Balistols scent will come along to. Beats the smell of CLP, some of the ammonia smelling copper cleaning solutions, and a few other cleaners that have come and gone over the years.

Sept 23, 2015 PS: I have been advised by my good friend and long time shooting pard, Mr. Jubal Starbuck, that he would like to see me wear a "pair of googles" sometime. Jubal is my 'spelling' critic and conscience who always reminds me of my gaffs. Yep, I'm not the best sound out speller in the world, also mange to 'butcher some of the "Kings English' at times. Yep I did misspell goggle and I ain'ta gonna change it in the spirit of the post. Meant goggles of course, but the google version adds a little flavor to the post. Stickin to my convictions. CC 

[Montana Slim]

Do you pull the nipples as part of your cleaning process? That's the one chore that irks me with cap & ball.

Remove nipples?  .....Once or maybe twice a year on revolvers I've been shooting frequently, once a year on those that have been fired but a few sessions, and zero times on those that had to sit-out the season. When they ARE removed, I clean carefully, dry & coat threads well with synthetic grease.

So-far this year I've shot my new pair of Uberti 1851 Navy pistols a fair bit (estimate 1,000 shots each)....haven't removed the nipples yet. Internals have only been cleaned via removal of the grips and a few squirts of WD-40 into the innards followed by blasts of compressed air. The expected "mess" of using compressed air is much reduced by using carefully placed paper towels, or by use of a small cardboard box.

I re-lube the mechanism with a few drops of Ballistol OIL.

Slim

[Coffinmaker]

My turn!!  My Turn!!  Call Me!!  Call Me!!  I wanna answer too!!!!

Humpf.  So there.  Opinions are like some bodily orifices.  Everybody gotz em.  So, since this thread has drifted clear into Macon County (where ever THAT is), I wanna wade in.  On the Cleaning part.  Or, as I see it, the "over cleaning" part.
Up in my neck of the woods, We have seasons.  Winter .. and .. Construction (roads).  Shooting corresponds with Construction.  So, after the last match of the season, I take my match guns apart to the point I remove the grips.  I clean the innards by flushing with a can of Break Cleaner, till it runs clear.  Drip Dry (it evaporates quick), Then spray it full of oil (let excess drip off).  Cylinder is cleaned as normal (hot water inna sink) then I pull the nipples and wire brush the crud off, apply some anti-seize and re-install.  Wipe the gun down with an
oily rag.  Done.
During the March thru October shooting season, I don't bother to pull the nipples.  Waste of time (my opine).  Unless it feels wonky, I also
don't pull the gun apart (another waste of time).  After a match or range session, the barrel and cylinder goes inna sink (normal).  I clean the hammer and hammer channel with CLP.  Done.
My "personal" opinion is ......... some of youz are cleaning em too much.  Keep it up and you'll rub all the new off um.  Basic maintenance will keep ya running fine all year.
Now, since Lefty Dude don't have "Seasons" and shoots year round, he never has to do a full pull down and put away.  Humpf!!

Coffinmaker   

[Noz]

My guns get their internals cleaned when something breaks. Nipples come out at that time as well. Antisieze is my friend.



Just a note. My moosemilk made from Ballistol is now about 30 to 1. I've found the weaker solution cleans better. I follow with a wipe down and a coat of petroleum for rust protection.

[Dick Dastardly]

Ho PJ,

Mostly, I shoot cartridges.  My pistols have Kirst Konverter cylinders.  When I do shoot true C&B I clean the same as otherwise except for using compressed air to blow out the chambers and nipples.  The Moosemilk leaves enough Ballistol behind to protect and lubricate everything.

DD-MDA

[Crow Choker]

I agree with ya Coffinmaker that a person (ie.-a shooter of a mechanism that detonates a mass of chemical substances that propels a lead projectile down a steel tube) can over clean, over oil, over grease, over polish, etc. Same as over greasing a piece of equipment, etc.  I may have not made it real clear in my last post(Sept 12) where it may indicate I'm a 'clean freak'. I don't take nipples out and clean if I get an 'itchy trigger finger' and go out in my back yard at my 'ad hoc' range and fire off 2-3 cylinder full of 'beans' at my dirt pile, unless there is a likely indication the gun won't be used for some time. Live out in the country so I can get away with that! I will do it if after a lengthy session of many rounds filed through thee ol' hogleg/legs, esp during the hot, humid summer days of North Iowa where I live. I do covet my guns, as I do my guitars, meaning I take as good of care of them as possible. Guess that's why I have some of both items that date back into late 60's/70's that still look like they've just come out of the box/case. I don't put them above The One who created us though, just for clarification. Not putting any body else's procedures down, as most shooters I know and I assume most who post here take care of their firearms. I just do as I see fit and am happy as a camper with no rain or ants.

I do use extreme care in disassembly/assembly using the right tools and the right fitting tools to do the job so there is no 'buggered up' screws, nipples, etc. Fussy am I! I DO at times if I can't properly clean a gun after shooting due to some time constraint spray the 'crap' out of the gun with WD40 and lay it on old newspaper to clean later. Most times I will swab out the barrel real fast and run some fat q-tips designed for womens cosmetic needs around in the cylinder with 'moose milk'. I'll also admit I've resprayed them a 2nd time until proper cleaning can take place. I've left em' up to a week several times as this, then cleaned them properly with no ill effects to the metal. Is this good, nope, but it does work. There ya go, I've just spilled my guts on the sins of my firearm upkeep.

In the spirit of not serving to far off the road on the original intent of this thread, I still maintain that the smell of ballistol is acceptable and that the cleaning and lubrication properties of ballistol are excellent. May be some times when something else is needed such as a heavier oil or a grease, but ballistol always works for the applications I need/intend it for. Have a Good Day!!!   

[hellgate]

I do what Noz does.

[Montana Slim]

Speaking of Ballistol, coincidentally the theme of the OP,  I think it's worth mentioning the two type of Ballistol.
These are Ballistol, Aerosol....and Ballistol Oil.

I'll let everyone lookup the MSDS for each product themselves....they are a bit different.

Also note a few who favor the "moosemilk" formula. I assume this is a mix of the Oil product, rather than the Aerosol.

I've used both aerosol & oil products, but much favor the "oil" product. Makes a good BP-friendly lube for my BP guns. Fouling mixed with this lube is easily cleaned with water-based cleaners (my favorite being water, with a tad of dish soap - hint - not only does it work great, its also one of the cheepest).

I tried the "moosemilk" a couple times but found it to be wasteful of product, and not an advantage over water/soap or windshield washer fluid....BTW, I don't like waste. Besides, I know that Ballistol can form an emulsion with water. This means two things....one is that while it is not soluble in water, it can form bonds with it. I wouldn't trust leaving a water-bonded product as the final protective film against corrosion. - Think about that for a second. It also does not not make a great water-displacing agent for the same reason. You can also guess that due to it's water-bonding "friendliness" that it washes off pretty easily with water....so, Ballistol does not fare well in a salt-fog test. But, keep in mind that I still like & use it as a BP-friendly lube.

Its easy to see via the Ballistol story on the company's website how & why developed and favored. At the time, it was selected for its wide-ranging list of possible uses....hint - sometimes this means a product has compromises in some of the uses. Same can be said for any multi-use product. CLP isn't the best at each of its intended functions, either..even if it is among the best ideas for simple modern firearms maintenance.

Some may note my frequent mention/use of good-ol' WD-40. It too is touted as a million use product. Among its best is the original desired water-displacer, which is why I have it in my kit for BP gun use. It also fares well in salt-fog testing. Many uses where you're looking for it to be a "lube"? ....no, it isn't a good lube...too much solvent, among other things.

A "protectant" ? - try 30-W or 40-W motor oil. Great for preservation.

Why would anyone believe me?  I don't really expect it...Certainly not on a forum.  A lot of opinions have been formed over many years & don't change quickly.  I do have the advantage of working with a leading expert in the field of corrosion control, plus years of engineering support on products needing lubrication, cleaning, and protecting (not necessarily in that order) many either LOVE or HATE...with passion.

Slim

[PJ Hardtack]

Some may note my frequent mention/use of good-ol' WD-40. It too is touted as a million use product. Among its best is the original desired water-displacer, which is why I have it in my kit for BP gun use. It also fares well in salt-fog testing. Many uses where you're looking for it to be a "lube"? ....no, it isn't a good lube...too much solvent, among other things

Slim

I concur with Slim's opinion re: WD-40. When I was a serviceman for a gas utility company, people frequently asked about using WD-40 to lubricate the electric motor of their gas furnaces. We instructed them - "No, it a solvent, not a lubricant."
Our recommendation was a heavy motor oil, one that would not run off easily or evaporate.

I've always had an eversion to using water in any form on my guns. It gets into places where I don't want it. Best product I ever found was called LPS-3. Marina shops sell it. It has water displacing qualities. Wish I could find it, but I'm a long ways away from any marinas these days.

[Coffinmaker]

Slim is spot on.  While touted frequently as a "lubricant,"  WD-40 is not it.  It's a solvent and water dispersion agent.  To break it down,
W = Water, D = Displacement (Dispersion), - 40 Formulation number 40.  There were 39 previous formulas that did't.  It (WD-40) will
quiet squeaks.  Until it completely evaporates and the moving surfaces begin to grind together again.

Same Same Ballistol.  In a prior life as a CAS Gunsmith, I POO POO'd Ballistol to no end.  I was also shooting Smokeless.  There were/are far better agents for smokeless.  Break Free comes to mind real quick.  Cuts carbon fouling and leaves behind a lubricating film.  A VERY thin film.  CLP is one of the very best gun cleaners.
A mix of Murphys Oil Sope, Hydrogen Peroxide and Alcohol is also very popular.  Works pretty good.  Murphy's cleans, Peroxide cuts the chemicals and Alcohol acts as the drying agent.  Still leaves something lacking.  It is also only effective for BP and some of the Subs.  In
all honesty, for just cleaning, Basic water (maybe a little dawn detergent), then thoroughly DRY it and OIL it

In all cases, OIL it.  for BP, best are non-petroilium based oils.  I've formed a real close bond with Mobil 1 grease and Motor oil.  Super lubricants that play well with BP.

Anything that may leave water behind (rubbing alcohol) is .... Meh.  Smokeless powders and todays Primers are not corrosive of themselves.  BP is also not corrosive in and of itself.  BP residue traps moisture next to the steel.  That = Rust.

I have come to like a small pray can of Ballistol during a match.  Sprits the Carrier Block of Toggle Link Rifles and a little squirt on the Arbor
between stages.

If you want to have REAL fun, use Ballistol as your "wipe down" and protectant.  Then show up at a match with light rain or fog or high humidity and see just how the stuff turns to a slick film just like soap.  Makes it real fun to hang on to your guns .... NOT.

Coffinmaker

[Bruce W Sims]

Had an exchange with some folks on another forum who identified Ballistol as the chosen lube for
German weapons during WW II. What brought this up was my memory of a History Channel program
on the German Army in Russia reporting that Germans were plagued by weapons freezing-up so, of
course, I asked about their choice of lube. Does anyone know anything about this? Just wondering....

Best Wishes,

Bruce

[Coffinmaker]

Yep.  It's true.

Coffinmaker

[knucklehead]

moosemilk works very well. i use it during and after a match. keep a small spray bottle of it in the gun cart. when my shootin irons start getting slow (other than me handling it) just spray it down with moosemilk and a wipe down.

i tested frog lube due to reading on a muzzleloading formum. i tried it on one of my semi auto firearms and worked wonders.
after reading about several people using it on their hunting muzzleloaders i decided to try it. works great on my muzzleloader rifle. it also does wonders on my smokeless firearms. decided to switch to frog lube for all firearms so i dont get confused which lube for each of my guns. sure is easy to have one cleaner and lube for my guns now.

[Yellowhouse Sam]

I can't add anything that hasn't been mentioned in favor of ballistol.  I like it for a variety of uses and especially as a aid in cleaning BP.

Ballistol has been touted as a cure all for just about everything but I wanted to relate a personal experience:   It was very cold and I was alone in our simple hunting cabin.  The wind was up and it leaked some pretty icy drafts.  Drug myself out of the bag and made it back to a wood burning stove that could digest only foot long chunks of wood.  Down on my hunkers I gave a mighty shove to a stuck piece of firewood and to my horrors found my head hurtling right into an inferno.  Instinctively, I threw my hand out to stop the fall and it fairly sizzled like bacon in the hottest of skillets.  It didn't hurt then which told me I had screwed up royally for sure.  That was a serious burn folks but I slathered it in ballistol (there was nothing else around anyway) and wrapped it to try and shut off the air.  The next day I fully expected there to be black flesh or huge blisters but there was neither.  Healed up in record time too.

[Coffinmaker]

Lousy Salad Dressing though.

Coffinmaker

[wildman1]

Don't smell as bad as Italian. wM1

[Yakima Red]

I'm with Mr. Dastardly. Besides, if it keeps the eggs from stick'in in the cast iron, how could the stuff be bad?