Oil Dyes VS Alcohol-based Dyes

Started by Uncle Chan, November 12, 2005, 11:27:45 PM

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Uncle Chan

Folks, other than one is oil-based and the other is alcohol-based, what is the main difference between the two?  What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?

Many thanks to the responders!  This question has been bugging me for ages.....

Guano

Uncle Chan,
From my experience, the oil dye has properties that prohibit it from drying completely. To the touch it feels dry but it tends to bleed onto your clothing, although it keeps the leather more pliable.
By using the alcohol based dyes that dry faster and you need to use leather conditioners to help keep the leather from being to brittle and pliable. Depending on what conditioners are used over the alcohol based dyes they can also bleed.
I personally prefer the alcohol based dyes because I think you can control the color density better and I have also used the dye to stain my gun stocks.
The about are just my experiences. ;D

Marshal Will Wingam

I use the alcohol-based dyes, too. Bleeding colors don't thrill me any. Also, I can use an airbrush with the alcohol-based dyes better. The oil-based dyes tend to plug up the tip on my airbrush.

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Tommy tornado

I asked the same question to the manager of the local Leather Factory.  He replied that the Alcohol-based dye sits on top of the leather, whereas the Oil-based dye penetrates the leather.  He said that in the long-run the oil based dye was better for the life of the leather.  I use oil based dye but then again I don't airbrush, and I am far from an expert.
Keep your pants and your powder dry!
# 356056

Uncle Chan

Thanks everyone for your answers.  I've used both and have the same results.  I use mainly alcohol-based dyes, but have had them bleed just as much as the oil-based dies.  I guess the real trick is what you finish your projects with.

So many options, so little knowledge on my part....   :o

Marshal Will Wingam

Tommy, I don't airbrush very often but now and then you can get a really nice effect with one.

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Slowhand Bob

Dang Marshal, thats downright purty.  I bought the old Tandy airbrush video and all of the necessary equipment many years ago but never tried it.  Your photo is about to inspire me though.  Anybody remember where I put all that stuff?

Tommy tornado

Marshal that is some beautiful work!
Keep your pants and your powder dry!
# 356056

Nolan Sackett

Quote from: Tommy tornado on November 13, 2005, 08:49:42 PM
I asked the same question to the manager of the local Leather Factory.  He replied that the Alcohol-based dye sits on top of the leather, whereas the Oil-based dye penetrates the leather.  He said that in the long-run the oil based dye was better for the life of the leather. 

Plain and simple Bull!  ;)  (of course he's going to tell you that since the oil dyes are about twice as expensive!) - I use the spirit dyes (Fiebings or Lincoln) exclusively when not using natural dyes - but I have used the oil dyes. The way to get penetration is to properly deglaze the surface and then dampen it with water - the water will open the pores and allow the dye to penetrate. Actually you do it in one step - use a spray bottle of 70% Isopropyl alcohol and spray the surface until well dampened. The alcohol will deglaze it in all but the most difficult cases and the 30% water will dampen it. After dying and when totally dry and the color you want - the next step is to buff off the film left on the surface - this is EXTREMELY important since if that powder is left on the dye will rub off. After that add a LIGHT coat or two of a light leather oil such as Lexol Conditioner. I don't like the oil mixed with the dye or before dying because the oil will act as a carrier for the dye and will cause bleeding unless completely sealed, which can be a nightmare, especially with black dye. Oiling AFTER the dye will help immensely in this respect, especially on the flesh side.

If you really want to use oil dyes though the are easy to make yourself - just add oil to the dye. To do it properly you will need a food blender (not the one from the kitchen!) some light oil, I use cheap olive oil, some Lecithin capsules, and regular spirit dye. Mix a pint of dye with two or three Lecithin caps (squeeze the liquid out of them) and the oil - start with a couple of tablespoons and add more until you get what you want, generally no more than an 1/8 of a cup to a pint of dye, keep whirring it until mixed and then whirr it up before each use. I learned that from an old saddle maker back int he 1960's, only he used an egg beater - well actually I used the beater - apprentice = slave  ;) .
The commercial oil dyes are in fact basically a similar mix - look at the ingredients some time.......unless they've changed the ingredients in the last few years oil dye has all the same dryers/thinners such as toluene as the spirit dyes do.
aka Chuck Burrows
Frontier Knifemaker & Leather Smith

Nolan Sackett

Will - nice work!  ;D

Being a Luddite at heart I've never used an airbrush but have seen some beautiful pieces like yours over the years.
aka Chuck Burrows
Frontier Knifemaker & Leather Smith

Uncle Chan

Nolan,

Based on your above post, you mentioned after dying the leather and making sure it is completely dry, to buff of the residue then put a thin coat of Lexol conditioner on it.  Would a thin coat of 100% Neatsfoot work as well?

Uncle Chan

Marshal Will Wingam

Thanks for the kind words, pards. I've also overdone the airbrush and basically made something that needed to be dyed black. :D

Quote from: Nolan Sackett on November 14, 2005, 08:03:27 PMapprentice = slave  ;) .
LOL, that was my job in the late 70's. Amazing what you can learn by working for one of the old timers.

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Nolan Sackett

Quote from: Uncle Chan on November 14, 2005, 09:36:00 PM
Nolan,

Based on your above post, you mentioned after dying the leather and making sure it is completely dry, to buff of the residue then put a thin coat of Lexol conditioner on it.  Would a thin coat of 100% Neatsfoot work as well?

Uncle Chan

Yes any oil will work - the operative word is LIGHT/THIN coat.
I prefer the Lexol since it is a also light oil (sulphanated/sulphurated neats foots oil in fact) and is easier to control.....

Will - one of the old timers I worked for way back when would smack my hands with a ruler if he caught me doing something "wrong"! It felt like I was back in the first grade...................... :-\
aka Chuck Burrows
Frontier Knifemaker & Leather Smith

Tommy tornado

Thanks for the reply Nolan.  You are a wealth of knowledge.  I am learning a lot from this forum. 
Keep your pants and your powder dry!
# 356056

Marshal Will Wingam

Quote from: Nolan Sackett on November 15, 2005, 05:48:42 AMone of the old timers I worked for way back when would smack my hands with a ruler if he caught me doing something "wrong"! It felt like I was back in the first grade...................... :-\
Ouch. I was lucky. When I'd screw up, old Charlie would tell me a similar story, usually humorous to boot, and I would always remember his story when I got close to making the same mistake again.

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