1866 Short Stroke...QUESTION???

Started by rbertalotto, December 12, 2015, 06:29:50 AM

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rbertalotto

I recently bought another 1866 Uberti in 38-40. Ordered the Pioneer Gun Works "Super Short Stoke" kit, along with the Pioneer action springs for the lever and carrier. I also ordered the "Coil Main Spring Conversion" kit.

This is the fourth short stroke kit I've installed in Uberti rifles and the install went well, except I had to file a small amount from the side of the boss on the carrier lifter as the lever was hitting this area and not allowing the bolt to go forward. Other than that it was a typical install.

The Coil Spring conversion was a first for me. Relatively easy installation but you do need a Dremel tool as some material needs to be removed from within the action and a bit of wood needs to be removed from the stock.

While I had everything apart I smoothed out all edges and surfaces with India stones and Cratex wheels.

Now my question.

With the hammer back, the action is extremely smooth and very fast. But with the hammer forward, the bolt pushing back on the hammer seems much harder than my other Uberties without the coil spring kit. On my other rifles I simply used the old trick of grinding the flat main spring to relieve some spring tension.

With this coil spring kit and using the softer of the two springs included (RED), the action is quite hard once the bolt starts to move the hammer. The hammer fall will set off Federal primers but it will not set off Winchester primers (none of my other 1873/1866 rifles with lightened hammers will set off Winchester primers either)

Is there some modification to the bolt end where it pushes back the hammer that I should be aware of? What are other folks experience with the coil spring conversions?

Thanks in advance!
Roy B
South of Boston
www.rvbprecision.com
SASS #93544

wildman1

Take the stock off and look at the spring and area around it to make sure nothing is binding or rubbing when it is being cocked. If that doesn't work call Joe and describe what is happening, he will probably know what is at the root of it. wM1
WARTHOG, Dirty Rat #600, BOLD #1056, CGCS,GCSAA, NMLRA, NRA, AF&AM, CBBRC.  If all that cowboy has ever seen is a stockdam, he ain't gonna believe ya when ya tell him about whales.

Coffinmaker

Hi Roy,
Gotta go back here to when I was still working for a living.  Built quite a few rifles using the Pioneer Coil Spring conversion.  While the
Coil conversion worked quite well, I didn't like it.  The initial lever effort to get everything moving was really quite high.  Uncomfortable high.  So, I piddled with it.  Reduced spring diameter (failure to fire), shorten spring (failure to fire) 'tother cup of coffee, no better ideas.

So, the bottom line was, I pulled the coil conversions out and went back to Tuna.  Springs I tuned worked much better.  Also, those customers of mine who at first "demanded" the latest and greatest of technological advances, also went back to tuned flat springs.

Coffinmaker

rbertalotto

Firing pin extension binding in bolt.....chucked firing pin extension in drill and polished with 320 grit paper
Firing Pin Extension binding in receiver....small piece of wood dowel with 320grit paper to "hone" the receiver hole
Firing Pin Spring too long....removed two coils

All of the above was causing a reduced hammer spring to cause misfires as the firing pin binding was wasting the transfer of energy. Now rifle cycles beautifully and zero misfires even with Winchester primers.

Hammer Coil Spring too stiff....Sanded the exterior to relieve tension. Removed one coil to make initial movement easier when cycling.

Once the above firing pin issues were solved I could lighten the hammer spring further.

NOW We're talk'n! Gun runs very well now.......Ready to Rock and Roll!
Roy B
South of Boston
www.rvbprecision.com
SASS #93544

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