IAC 1897 Winchester clone won't fire!

[CaptainFinn]

Okay, I have had this 97 clone since 2003 (bought it new).  First noticed this problem when I was using it as my backup SASS shotgun about ten years ago.  Pull the trigger all the way to the rear and if the sear spring on the bottom of the carrier was snugged down tight it wouldn't fire.  It seemed like the trigger wasn't going back far enough (even tho it was fully to the rear--no, the set screw behind tge trigger wasn't out too far, it was snugged back not even contacting the trigger).  I backed the sear spring screw out a half turn and now the gun would fire.  But if it was backed out TOO much it would also drop the hammer from half cock.  I put a shim under the spring, threw the gun in my safe.  Later a gunsmith from AWA that shot at my range said that the sear was too soft or too short.  I never got around to fitting a new one.

Anyway, recently I decided to attempt to fix it.  Got an original sear and trigger for a Winchester 97 and tried them.  Same thing.  If the spring screw is snugged all the way down it won't fire.  Noticed after I removed the sear pivot pin that the pin itself was slightly off true, slight bend in the middle.  Had to roll it on a piece of glass to see the wobble, it's that slight, but it's there.

I saw that there's a replacement sear available, needs fitting.  Would this cure it?  Is it common in the clone guns?  I've never had a problem with my original Winchester 97, I've heard the Chinese guns were spotty QC-wise.

Thanks

[Coffinmaker]

TOMATO STAKE 

Coffinmaker

[Blackfoot]

Who was the manufacturer??

Lafitte

[Pettifogger]

Pretty much impossible to tell what is wrong or what will fix it without seeing it.  If you already replaced the sear and trigger with original Winchester parts I doubt a new sear is going to correct the problem.  Sounds like you have other problems.  IF the problem seems like the trigger is not going back far enough I would look there.  The trigger doesn't actually move back.  It moves up.  When you pull the trigger it pivots up to push on the sear.  As a test I would glue or somehow put a spacer on top of the trigger and see if you add material it will push the sear up to the point where it will disengage.  If so, weld some material on the trigger and grind it to fit for a permanent fix.  But, again, who knows without seeing it?

[CaptainFinn]

Yes, you described the problem more succinctly then I did.  As the trigger moves back, the rear top of the trigger pivots up against the sear.  The sear 'tail' rises, pivoting the other end of the sear, which engages the hammer notch.  Problem is that the sear doesn't pivot enough to disengage from the hammer.  The trigger is back against the trigger guard before the top OC the trigger rises enough to fully pivot the sear.

Saw one clone 1897 that had the same problem.  After it was fixed, the trigger was almost 1/4 inch further forward in the trigger guard with more then enough room to move rearwards.  Longer rear trigger surface or longer sear tail, both have the same effect, the trigger travels further and the sear pivots fully, causing the cocked hammer to drop.