ASM Type I Cartridge Conversion

[reno]

Have a ASM Type I Conversion, and it shoots and functions fine. The only trouble is the ejector rod is to short, and the firing pin saftey screw keeps backing out when fired a few rounds and won't strike the primer. I hate to Loctite the screw in but I guess that's what I will have to do. Only thing I worry about is wearing on the firing pin spring, as you all know about no replacment parts for these. Would be thankful for any ideas.
NCOWS #810
Reno

[Coffinmaker]

Well ........
Since you asked ........ Take the firing pin striker screw out and add a drop of blue LocTite.  It's the only good fix.  You can and should pull the firing pin return spring out (it's too stiff anyway) and go looking for the same diameter ball point pen spring.  Ball pen springs are designed to last beyond the fall of mankind and will last forever (almost).  Be sure to shoot your pistol dualist style (one handed).  It won't stand up to two fisted fast shooting. 
Be sure to shock and fix the barrel to arbor fit.  It is most likely "not right."  If the cylinder face scrapes the back of the barrel when the wedge is fully seated, it needs attention.

Coffinmaker

[reno]

Thanks very much Coffinmaker, for the info. I have got more and better information from people like you and others on this site than from all my years in firearms. I don't know what you mean by it won't stand two handed shooting, but Iam sure you know what you are talking about. I hate to admit it, but I can't hold a revolver up with one hand anymore due to a couple surgerys on both shoulders. How would you address the arbor issue?
Thanks again,
NCOWS#810
Reno

[Villafuego]

On my ASM Richards I made a small spacer for the end of the arbor from a stainless washer....it ensures the arbor "bottoms out" in its channel in the barrel....without it the wedge will pull the bbl right up against the cylinder.....and cant it upwards....

I stoned the wedge after this was done.....now everytime the wedge is replaced, the end of the bbl is perfectly parallel with the face of the cylinder, and I have a perfect .007" gap....every time.....doesn't start getting sluggish from BP shooting till after maybe 60-75 rounds (a few sprays of ballistol seem to help though!)  

Is that what you were talking about Coffinmaker???

[Coffinmaker]

Hi guys,
There are several ways to address the barrel/arbor fit.  Weld up the end of the arbor, fine it back.  Center bore the arbor, fit a Dillon cartridge locator pin, file it back.  Center bore the arbor, tap the hole for a machine screw, file the screw head back.  These fixes should require the removal and replace of the arbor, which em tales drilling out the retaining pin and either driving in a new pin or drill and tap the hole for a small set screw.  All of the foregoing can get expensive if your not flush with so e skill and precision tools.  Some time back, I discovered stainless 5mm split washers at Lowe's.  I told the whole world about it at the time and I think some thought I was nutz for using such a back yard fix.  I found dropping the split washer down the barrel bore for the arbor and reassembling the gun fixed 99.99 percent of ASM guns and 99 percent of Uberti guns.  At a cost of about .08 cents per gun.  Just remember to put the washer back after cleaning.

Whew....... This has been the wordy version of Yes.  If the gun was found to need the arbor fix (it will) I'd tell him about the little split washer to fix it.

Coffinmaker

[pony express]

Reno, I believe what Coffinmaker is referring to concerning 2 handed shooting, is the "high speed" shooter, that repeatedly yanks back the hammer with the off thumb, which can stress everything in the gun, not quite as bad as "fanning" it, but definitely harder on it than more deliberate shooting.

[Coffinmaker]

Yup.  Forgot to add that.  Thanks Pony Express.

Coffinmaker

[rifle]

The firing pin tune......the hammer or the hammer firing pin stud shouldn't hit the firing pin bushing that's screwed in. The bushing should go inside the hole where the firing pin stud is in the hammer so the hole goes over-around the screwed in bushing.That bushing screwed in has to come out at times and if it's battered up that will cause problems....battered can peen metal into the hole where the firing pin is and make the firing pin stick also.

Things need adjusted so the hole in the hammer goes over the screwed in bushing and the firing pin reaches the primer to ignite it and it's furthest reach stops exactly as the hammer hits the backplate-conversion plate. The best way is to have the firing pin length so as it ignites the primer and....stops the hammer about a .001 in. before the hammer actually hits the back plate. If yas get it close enough so the firing pin dampens the hit of the hammer on the backplate that can be alright sinse the firing pin takes almost all the abuse.

The moral of this story is that the screwed in firing pin bushing is protected as is the hammer nose as is the backplate and the firing pin takes the abuse.  That calls for a new firing pin turned out that is exactly the right length.

Using Loctite on the ajusting screw for the hammers insert stud is alrigh even if it be red high strength which takes heat to un-adhere the thread locker to get the screw out someday.

The idea of using split washer for a shim in the bottom of the arbor hole may sound good but that's only if the split is compressed all the way so the washer is actually all level in the hole when the wedge is tight.

Whatever works fer ya works fer ya so no critisism meant.

I've gone to using those lil washers that can be filed to fit the hole but stay in till picked out cause they have a hole in them. They are fender washer type things(thin with a small hole ,I get from Lowes) and can be stoned to an exact fit to get the arbor bottomed when the bottom lug of the barrel is a .001 or .002 off the frame...fer wear or seat in.  If need be use two or even three. Use Prussian Blue machinist ink to check the fit. When ya see all blue yer close....when the blue is compressed away yer there.  You spead a real thin layer on the end of the arbor to check. The compressed "blue-gone" has to be timed with the barrel bottom lug .001 or .002 off the frame or ifin you want timed with the barrel lug right on the frame. It depends on if you start with an arbor way off the bottom of the hole or start with the arbor hitting the bottom before the barrel hits to the frame. Usually it's the arbor is off the bottomof the hole.

If you start with a washer that's too thick you stone and stone and stone till you begin to see the blue getting on the bottom of the hole and then watch the barrels bottom lug as you carefully try to reach the bottom of the hole where the blue gets compressed away from where the contact is made when the bottom barrel lug is where you want it.

In other words the blue on the end of the arbor showin blue in the bottom of the hole means yer close and the blue compressed away means yer there if...the barrel lug is on the frame or .001-.002 in. off it and the wedge is in right. Preferably with the wedge showing spare space to go in further when it wears.

They can be fit to not fall out and need picked loose with a lil screw driver or whatever thru the wedge slot.

Things ever change then the lil fender washer can be re-fit with a new one easy enough.

Bringing up the arbor means bringing up the head space fer the cases and how the firing pin can reach them.


Anywhooooooo.....try to adjust the hammer with it's hole  and screw adusted firing pin stud to not wack the firing pin screwed in bushing or the backplate so the force goes thru the pin into the cushion of the primer.

The right size drill rod works fer makin good firing pins. You can use as is with most drill rod or harden and temper back as needed. Oilhardening drill rod is alright to use. If you harden the new pin then temper it in an oven at about 375 degrees fer about two hours or a lil less. Turn off the oven and let the piece cool off in there. Don't put it out in the air where it can cool unevenly.

I have to add...if the head space needs adjusted when the space is too big then the arbor needs attention if it stops the barrel from going back when it's milled off at the bottom lug that hits the frame and....when the barrel is set back then the wedge is almost always too loose so a new wedge needs made up or the front of the arbor slot needs welded and then file fit back to proper shape to use the same factory wedge.

You have to work carefully sos not to mess up the barrels rear lug that hits the frame and take it down the exact number of .001's to set the head space. Set the head space can mean taking the right amount off the barrels bottom lug and the same off the rear of the cylinders ratchet index teeth. Gotta work carefully. I'dsay ifin the head space isn't too wide to work but a lil big......if it works don't fix it cause it's easy to mess up since it's got to be exact on the planes of the barrel lug,rear of the cylinder,and the cylinder front bushing.

Ifin ya know a "good" pro gunsmith or "Kitchen Table Gunsmith" acquainted with the Colts let him/her do it. That way ifin they mess up they's liable to make it right...if they are honest.